ID Rusty Chassis

This one is tough because there isn't much left to go on. I ignored it for years because I thought it was just another cut up Model T or something, but then I noticed it was a RH drive. I obviously haven't removed any rust or the growth of lichen patina, but I have yet to see a single casting number or identifying insignia... not even on the one remaining hubcap. The short hood and rusty oil pan indicate that it was 4 cyl., had cable controlled internal expanding rear brakes, no front brakes, 2 leaf springs on the front and a single one at the rear with a very simple looking differential. Looks like it had gas headlights and 6 spoke wooden wheels. Hoping maybe somebody will spot something they recognize. The good news is that it will never turn up on Ebay if you can ID it. The rear axle tubes might end up being jack stands in my shop, and the rear wish bones might have potential in a speedster project when I get to it, but I don't see anything of value unless someone is desperate for the front axle or steering box. My grandfather cut the back 2/3's of the frame off for a road drag some time before WWII. I'm guessing a touring circa 1910.

More rusty pics.... it also had a very narrow side mount spare as witnessed by the bracket.

...and more.

I would say that the window frame molding is from a much newer car....late 1930s or 1940s.

I was wondering about that too... entirely possible that it came from another car... or it's a very unique piece that could help identify this chassis.

I am seeing parts of at least 3 different vehicles.

Louvered hood and hub with hubcap on that hood are Model T Ford, so too is rear hub and brake drum in third posting.

Disassembled rear end I think is 1930s Ford.

Not much left of the RHD chassis but it may be McLaughlin-Buick.

There was a Model T that was cut down into what was then referred to as a Bennett Buggy some time in the 30's. Some of it's parts may very well have ended up on the pile from a previous vehicle. Good eye there Layden.

I won't feel so bad about cutting up those axle tubes knowing they didn't come off of some rare vehicle that somebody is searching for parts for. Not sure I agree with you about that front hub and keyed rear drum though. They seem to match the remaining hub on the front of the car. I'll have to see if I can pry it up out of the weeds and get a better pic this week.

I'm fairly certain that I'm looking at a Model T front axle and spring.

The rear was a Model A. The wishbone and axle shafts/ differential are all from the Model A rear.

I'm fairly certain that I'm looking at a Model T front axle and spring.

I don't see a Model T axle. If it's the one in pic 4 of the first group, that is not a Ford front end

That's the one I was looking at. Now I see it has the fore and aft leaf spring attached.

Yes, the front axle still attached to the front frame members has 2 parallel leaf springs. Also hard to see in the pics, but the front axle has a slight dip in the center and isn't as straight as the Ford's. The single rear buggy spring is also more hooked around on the ends than a Model A... look closely at the last pic in the first set.

Yes, the front axle still attached to the front frame members has 2 parallel leaf springs. Also hard to see in the pics, but the front axle has a slight dip in the center and isn't as straight as the Ford's. The single rear buggy spring is also more hooked around on the ends than a Model A... look closely at the last pic in the first set.

Hi all,

I have a 1926 Nash with right hand drive, the chassis frame cross members under the engine look very similar in design to these pictures. I think this chassis is very early Nash. I need a RHD steering assembly, but think the later ones are different. Could you tell me if this steering is bolted to the frame with 4 bolts? if so could you give me the measurements front to rear top to bottom of the bolt holes thanks

Regards

Viv

Interesting! Its gotta be pre WWI with that carbide lamp on the frame...

The steering box is in fact attached with 4 bolts , but not through the face of the frame, it is bolted top and bottom. The 2 bolts through the top of the frame go into threaded holes in the top of the box and are about 3 3/4" apart ( I'll need to pry back some old sheet metal to get a really accurate measurement). The 2 bolts at the bottom go through a blind hole and are held by nuts on the bottom of the frame rail. With the bent steering column this whole unit will be over 40" long. There is a small linkage that extends through the bottom of the steering shaft out the bottom of the box. If it's something you really need I'll go easy on you, but I'd hate to think about what a freight bill would be for a large part going from Canada to Zimbabwe.

I think Dave has the Model A rear end parts nailed though... I remember a torque tube being around that area and it looked just like the one he pictured. There's snow in our forecast for tomorrow, but I'm still hoping to go back through the parts that aren't Ford and getting more detail pics.

Hi ,

Thanks for coming back to me, my steering box is bolted through the side of the frame rail, not top and bottom, I dont think it will work for me, but will check when I get home end of Oct. Will get back to you if i can use it. I still think it is pre 20 Nash., best regards viv.

Finally got back to take some more pics of the chassis, and tried to lay it out with the parts that are supposed to be there. I had assumed that the rear end was a single buggy spring, but now I see there is no evidence that it was ever connected in the middle of the frame, just 2 strange clips on the outside edges. Maybe 2 semi-eliptic springs hung from the sides? LaydenB was right, those extra spindles don't match the one on the car so I've taken the Model T parts out of the pic and tried to arrange it as it was. Looks like wheel track was about 58 1/2", and if the rearend was under the clips at the back crossmember, the wheelbase would be around 98" long.

The only casting number I've found on the car is on one spindle... oddly enough on one, but not the other. It's very hard to read and I might have it wrong, but I think the number is SA-2882-53 with a little 4 (or a spruce tree?) in a circle after it.