chistech

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chistech last won the day on February 20

chistech had the most liked content!

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About chistech

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    Junior Member
  • Birthday 09/28/1961

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  • Gender:
    Male
  • Location:
    Dartmouth, MA
  • Interests:
    Antique cars, hunting, rc planes, garden railroading, black powder rifle making, furniture making, restoration, team roping, horse training, the list goes on!

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  • Biography
    Restored my first vehicle (23' Fort T Huckster) when I was 15, and just finished my second, 83' K5 @ 52

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  1. chistech

    1931 Oldsmobile Wire Wheels and Caps "WANTED"

    I really like that car as I’ve always had a soft spot for 5W coupes and would definitely be interested if it were closer. It would cost me at least $1600 to get it back to me. It’s also a business coupe rather than a rumble seat coupe which lessens it value and there was a ton of 31’s made compared to 32’s. There’s a good chance, if the motor has never been rebuilt that the rod bearings are probably shot as it’s common (Babbitt disintegration) with the Olds motors along with a tapered bore due to the long stroke and old, very aggressive rings. Motor rebuild, interior, and paint one is quickly up to $20k in those costs alone. Add another $12-$15k to chrome an Olds (a single wood wheel hubcap can cost $400 to rechrome) and one is into a $30k value car with close to a $50-60k investment. Not that we do this hobby as an investment as we all know it’s a losing proposition, but one has to understand the aspects and know the ball park value of the subject. Because it’s a coupe though, it’s still worth more than a sedan but the value to me here in MA would be in the $5000 range due to hard to find missing parts and it’s overall condition. It’s taken me three years to either find or make the parts that were missing on my Olds. What I have going for me is my car is a very low production (249) and the most desirable model of 32’ which is also considered “the year” for pre war cars. (At least in many opinions) with th all that said, I look at it every time I visit the forums and hope it finds someone to bring it back in its original configuration.
  2. chistech

    Preserving Headlamp Reflectors

    Had my 32’ Olds reflectors done by Uvira. Cost including shipping was $75 and turnaround was 3 days. I think that’s pretty reasonable and the service was excellent. My reflectors were worn and showing lots brass so my neighbor polished them perfectly for me and his plater nickeled them for no charge so my cost was about $90 including my shipping to Uvira. They sparkle much better than my resilvered ones on my 31’ Chevy.
  3. chistech

    REO Chain starter

    Learned the hard way with the same sort of situation on an old triumph motorcycle. Put it in neutral but pulled the clutch lever in as I went to kick it over. Resulted in a hyper extended knee! Gave it a good kick with follow through and no resistance left me pretty crippled for a few days. Only takes once with something like that to learn!
  4. chistech

    1931 Oldsmobile Wire Wheels and Caps "WANTED"

    Great thanks. I’ve done a ton of research on the 32’ Olds but not the 31’. I do know the wood wheel hubcap is the same but was told so was the 5 lug 17” wheel. Have a friend who is very knowledgeable looking for wheels for you.
  5. chistech

    1931 Oldsmobile Wire Wheels and Caps "WANTED"

    Are you sure it’s a 31’ you have? I believe a 31’ and 32’ use the same wheel and my 32’ wheels are 17” with a 5x5 lug pattern but mine are also the wood wheel. I believe the wire wheels were the same though but I most definitely could be wrong!
  6. Torqued the 7/16-14 head bolts on my 32’ Olds flathead 6 to 42# with no issue but all were new grade 5 rolled thread,high head bolts made 20 years ago. Like your motor, the majority of the holes are open bottom into the water jacket.
  7. Just realized. After the wheel is completely painted it will still need to go for pinstriping. More time for that! I was able to purchase a couple items this past week that I was very happy to get. I located a re-rubberized original black gas pedal and another fuel tank. I had a close replacement for the pedal but it was not shaped quite right but most would never know. Getting the original restored one was a big plus. The fuel tank I found by accident when looking at a bunch of pages of an old car accessories parts vendor. It was listed under another make and a different year but I immediately realized when looking at it that is was a 32' olds tank. My own tank is thin and has been repaired so finding another original one I thought was out of the question due to the rarity and low production numbers of the 32' Olds. While I haven't seen the tank yet, the seller told me it is absolutely solid so I'll find out when it gets here .
  8. I used a red scotchbrite pad for the first few coats as my main approach was to fill the deeper grains. A red pad is 200 grit. I then went to gray pads 400 for another two or three coats. The rest was with 400 paper and the last sanding before final was 600. Don't use steel wool as the wool particles can stay in the grain and will can rust down the road. Bronze wool could be used but not steel wool. I used compressed air to blow the wheel off and then went over the wheel with a tack cloth. I also wiped the first few coats lightly with turpentine which helps level the first few heavy coats as any thick areas stay a little tacky and the turpentine removes those thick areas with light wiping while it removes any dust. After those first few coats, I used a lint free rag lightly saturated with turpentine as a final wipe after blowing off and tack clothing the wheel. Then one more blowing off to make sure the wheel is good and dry. On the Captains Ultra Clear I would assume it's probably not as honey colored as the others. Don't know anything about the other Captain's #'s. I would try and read any reviews to see what they say as I'm sure they have differences but probably only subtle ones.
  9. LOL, you really don't want to know. I put on 12 coats but used very thin coats with throw away foam brushes. I am not exaggerating when I say I have about 500hrs in each wheel from start to finish. Stripping the paint layer by layer to look for original pinstripes, then glass beading the metal, etch priming the metal, then picking any remaining paint that might be in the grain out with dental picks, bleaching out iron stains with Oxalic acid, applying coats of linseed/pine tar/kerosene for color, sanding, then applying varnish, sanding, varnish, sanding, etc. Now it's tons of times masking to prime with gray urethane, wet sanding, pulling the masking, cleaning the powder from the wet sanding from the cracks, then remasking. Still waiting to paint the rims then the masking will get pulled again and then the stencil film applied and the sprocket pattern cut out, then the edge around the stencil to the rim will get masked, then the sprocket painted. Then the stencil needs to get pulled immediately after painting. So adding up all the time, I know I'm not that far off or exaggerating much.
  10. I tried the rustoleum product and even another brand. Had a good boat friend give me a new quart of Pettit 1015 Captains Varnish. He said it was the best and it turns out all the boat yards here in New England prefer it over anything else. I found it to apply easier than the other two with a very smooth level surface and the color I was looking for but the 1015 has golden brown color that some might not want. I personally am not into these super bleached out whitish wood spokes I’m seeing on a lot of the recently restored wood wheeled cars. Lots of guys are also using epoxy resin finishes which while it protects well, looks very plastic and doesn’t help on the UV light. Even if you epoxy, you still need a couple coats of spar varnish for the UV. My post is not to knock the rustoleum products as I don’t think a better or easier to apply etch primer (rustoleum) is available to the everyday guy, I just found the Pettit product a considerable amount better when the varnishes were compared.
  11. I’m looking for one 32’ trim ring. Do you have any extras?
  12. chistech

    1929 Durant

    Very close to me and tempting at about 5 hour drive . With the CN dollar exchange this car is even cheaper. I don’t see a dash or any gauges either but I can’t help but think the missing parts are probably with the car.
  13. chistech

    Santa Barbara area to Hershey

    I could ship it Greyhound too I believe. Done it before. Was curious if anyone from the area was going. A conscientious old car person hand delivering a car part is always better than shipping through the system.
  14. The aluminum sprocket pattern was created by my friend Joe Pirrone for painting his own wood wheels on his 32' Olds sport coupe. He simply used math and a compass to drawn out the pattern based off of a completely original wheel he has. The wheel has never been repainted or restored and he keeps it for reference. Once he had the drawing, he had a sheetmetal or machine shop make it up for him. I am very happy he loaned it to me as it's saving a ton of work for me. What you can't really see is every other spoke is a slightly different width meaning there are two different width spokes used in the wheels, with the same size spaced every other. This means the aluminum pattern has to be put on right for the pattern to line up correctly on the centerline of the spokes. With all that said, these are still wood wheels and the spokes vary somewhat.