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About chistech

  • Rank
    Junior Member
  • Birthday 09/28/1961

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  • Gender:
  • Location:
    Dartmouth, MA
  • Interests:
    Antique cars, hunting, rc planes, garden railroading, black powder rifle making, furniture making, restoration, team roping, horse training, the list goes on!


  • Biography
    Restored my first vehicle (23' Fort T Huckster) when I was 15, and just finished my second, 83' K5 @ 52

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  1. Was able to fit in another sanding and coating of varnish on my wheels. Varnish is now drying quickly and I will now sand them down with a red pad (400 grit) for the next coat. The molds got out to my friend and he cast up some grommets. Need to tweak the mold slightly but overall, the grommets are coming out good. Going to work on another mold for the bumper to bumper iron rubber buffer pad. We could easily use a flat rubber pad or rubber washer but again, we're trying to make the part as delivered. Going to try machining up a four piece mold to make this pad.
  2. 1931' Chevy 5 Passenger Coupe

    Finished it up today. Got the headlights done by adding new gasket around the reflector to glass area. This is originally cork which often is cracked and broken out. There are new gaskets sold but they are too big and will not fit in the groove. I used 5/32 rubber screen spline. The screen spline is the lined rubber that is forced into the groove around a screen panel in the door or window. This rubber works wonderfully and is easily installed in the groove. Took the car for it's shake down right at dusk. Lights on, I pulled out of the drive and headed down the road. The 194 purred perfectly and accelerated without a single pop or cough. Shifting requires double clutching but the trans shifted fine and I was quickly into 3rd and going 40-45mph. There was no drift side to side and a hands off the wheel yielded it going straight down the road. The only blip was a slight pull to the right when hard braking. This is extremely good as there was no front braking at all originally. I will back off on the passenger side brake adjuster a click or two. With these old cars, you never tighten the loose brake but loosen the tight (pulling) side to even the brakes. I believe the owner will be very pleased with his car when it gets back to him. It drives so much better than it did when I arrived with me. The paint shop is supposed to take it later this week for its buff and detail. Now it's time to smoke that cigar!
  3. 1931' Chevy 5 Passenger Coupe

    The headlight reflectors on the 31' were in pretty bad shape with less than half the silver remaining. I purchased a slivering kit from Caswell and had my neighbor polish up the reflectors down the brass. They came out super smooth and a perfect base for for applying the silver. The silver is applied in a liquid state with a low voltage wand. It does go on kind of streaky and takes some learning to develop a good application technique. As the silver is applied is gets kind of black and splotchy. It doesn't go on perfectly but after it's polished with toothpaste to remove the rough splotches, it yields a pretty serviceable and reflective surface. My neighbor also polished up the cast aluminum step plates which I mounted with SS hardware. Almost time to celebrate this car being done with a nice personalized cigar that my neighbor got me.
  4. The hard to find Maxwell tool is the silver hammer!
  5. The Olds Deluxe convertible roadster is actually very close to a Chevy Cabriolet and a Pontiac Cabriolet. Olds for some reason called it a roadster but it was actually a cabriolet. The bodies of all GM cabriolets of 31-32 era are all very similar from the front body mount back, often sharing some of the same wood components as all were Fisher bodied. The belt line moldings all differed but all three shared the same convertible roof framing and irons. The real differences were in the chassis and engines. Both Olds and Pontiac were pressurized engines while the Chevy used the dipper system. The Olds was definitely more refined with options and components but build quality was pretty much the same between all three.
  6. Been restoring my 32' Oldsmobile Deluxe Convertible Roadster. Nothing is repopped so original parts must be found. I'm constantly checking and over the last 16 months have gotten a lot of the little parts I needed like a pair of NOS tail light lenses with chrome rims, gaskets, and even a very rare Stromberg EC-2 carb all rebuilt that I purchased for a spare. The carb was cheap for under $300 too. I've been sending out the chrome for this car to be redone and the cost has been the largest cost of the whole restoration. I needed to have both bumpers done and got a price averaging $1,750 ea. Low and behold, one day a pair of rechromed 32' Olds bumpers show up on eBay. I called the guy and asked him what he wanted to get and he told me $700. I offered him the $700 and got two perfectly chromed bumpers (not even a single surface scratch) for $730 delivered to my door. He told me that he had many calls and others wanted to offer him only $400 for the pair. I feel I got them extremely cheap at the $730 yet others were trying to get them for next to nothing. Pros to eBay and the seller for helping me get the bumpers, cons to the guys out there trying to get rare parts worth thousands for basically nothing. I saved over $2000 buying those bumpers on eBay and I still have my originals.
  7. 1931' Chevy 5 Passenger Coupe

    Man, you guys have great eyes! LOL, Both those aircraft are powered by four stroke glow engines. The Texan is actually a quite rare version of the Texan. That is a early (80's) ARF (almost ready to fly) model made by Kyosho in Japan. Kyosho made three different models in their "SQS" (Super Quality Series) offering. The other two were a Corsair and a Zero. All have a very light but well made fiberglass fuselage with foam cored, balsa skinned, film covered wings and appendages. I have all three and all are excellent flyers on the smaller size, with 56-58" span and .65-.70 size engines. All have retractable landing gear and the corsair has a light ply reinforced, fiberglass center gull section which often proves to be the achilles heel of many model Corsairs. The Kyosho is very strong and light, the perfect combination. The cub is an all balsa ARF kit that belongs to my brother. It flies wonderfully and is very relaxing to fly off water. Perfect for a nice still air Saturday or Sunday morning at the pond. Kind of the same effect as taking out one of our cars in the early morning for a breakfast run.
  8. 1931' Chevy 5 Passenger Coupe

    Got back into the garage today and got a lot done. Both fenders have been put on, both hood sides, the front apron, headlight bar, headlight buckets, and all associated hardware. Got all the new badging and sill tag on the car. Tomorrow I need to solder up one headlight connector and get the lights working. Last night and this morning we had some really heavy rain washing away all the snow and sand/salt off the road. Hopefully once the headlights are done, I can get the car out for a test drive. Just about there.
  9. I first started with Rustoleum Varnish and found it wouldn't even think of drying. Now, I had issues with the stain underneath causing drying problems, but the Pettit brand, Captains Spar Varnish, was significantly thinner and will to brush out much smoother than the Rustoleum. The Rustoleum was much thicker and kind of "pulled" along the surface almost like maple syrup. I don't know the area you're from but I believe it will require warmer temps and low humidity to dry and solidify enough for easy sanding without gumming up on the sandpaper. Give it a try first and if it gives you any issue, go to a marine supply house and get a high quality spar varnish from them. You can go to my 32' Olds restoration thread here on the forums and read all about my trials and tribulations with my wheels!
  10. Help identify FENDER SKIRTS

    And I came to this thread thinking I was going to see some beautiful ladies with nice skirts and stocking sitting on the fenders of some fine antique automobiles. What a disappointment! LOL Only joking.
  11. Gary your car is looking really great. It's great to see the work of another member of the "crazy anal restorer" club! I am jealous of the company you've had while restoring your car. My son is 27, loves this stuff and would help me, but lives 1,200 miles away in central FL. I haven't yet had an old timer that's local stop in and want to come help and the only other guy I know who does the same thing as me is 94 yrs old and has his own helpers. He's got half a dozen cars of his own he's working on and has no time to come by my place. There hasn't been one young kid interested yet. Possibly there's still hope in the world but there's just not enough buttons and touch screens in these old cars to keep the kids wanting to "play" with them. So, other than my brother coming by and helping with a second set of hands when I ask for them, I work alone. I've even offered to put in a rug, AC, a recliner, and a TV in an office in the corner of my garage so my wife would at least sit out there with me to offer some conversation when I step back to take a break from it. The Wi-Fi from the house doesn't quite get out there and she can't get her books that she likes to read to easily so she's not keen on being out there with me. Perhaps I'll get the Wi-Fi working better this summer!
  12. 1931' Chevy 5 Passenger Coupe

    Thank you Dennis but can't really say there's a lot of craftsmanship on the interior. It's a Hampton Coach kit and only needs to be installed. Yes, care must be taken to install it properly, including making sure the tops of the seats are stuffed correct with extra padding to have a nice firm rise/look to each pleat, pulling the head liner taught enough for no sagging, proper blind stitching of the lower valances on the seat fronts and side, etc., but most anyone can do an installation if they read the instructions and take their time. Having experience helps with knowing exactly how some areas should look and how quickly you can get the interior done, but people doing a single install on their car can do it but I would recommend the investment of a good air stapler and quality staples plus a tack hammer and staple puller.
  13. 1931' Chevy 5 Passenger Coupe

    Completely finished up the 31' Chevy interior today. Fit the front rug to the pedals, dimmer switch, starter/accelerator rod, and the emergency brake handle. Reinstalled the front seats and gave everything a once over to make sure all was right. Only waiting for one window crank escutcheon to come in so the passenger door window crank can be installed. Got the motor fired up and timed today. Made some carb adjustments and adjusted the timing up to the modern day preferred, 18d btc. The owner had someone do some tuneup work on the car before it came but they did things to original specs which no longer work with the newer plugs and higher octane gasoline. Original specs are .022 gap on the plugs and 12d btc. The new specs of a plug gap of .040-.045 and timing at 18d btc really make the 194 stovebolt come to life. The AC 86 replacement plugs need the much larger gap to have a hot enough spark from proper idle and acceleration. It's really running great and the owner will be surprised with the difference. Tomorrow I hope to get the front fenders, hood sides, and headlights installed to finish up all assembly. Posted a short video of the motor running below. VID_20180112_152247147.mp4
  14. Thanks, but you should see then since that last coat. They look at least 50% better than this picture. Using the 320 wet sand paper right now but using it dry. One small strip, 1” x 5” folded in three is lasting about half way around one side of the wheel, basically meaning I’ll use just half a sheet or less to sand each wheel. The 320 is making them so smooth too. They should look really good when done. Should have also mentioned that I’m using cheap foam brushes, throwing it away after doing each coat on the 6 wheels. The foam brush really applies the varnish nicely.
  15. DEF Tow Vehicles and a real dumb question

    I have been running diesel trucks for years before they were even turbo equipped. I currently own a 83’ Chevy M1009 restored into a civilian model and a 08’ GMC duramax equipped dually CC. I used to haul continuously with gooseneck trailers hauling livestock and have over 2 million miles combined on those rigs. Today’s emissions are a joke on Diesel engines as the particles can be wiped out of a muffler and put in the dirt of a house plant and watch it grow. Cars and ethanol are a much, much bigger polluter but diesel exhaust can be seen, car exhaust can’t, so people assume, and the government counts on them, believing that the diesel is a bigger polluter. First there was no emissions and diesels got great mileage but had minimal road speed. Then came turbos and more power with little mileage loss if any. This set up killed the HD pickup with a gas motor back in the late 80’s to mid 90’s. Gas engine Sales fell way off on any truck over a half ton model. The big three didn’t like it at all. No more 460’s or 454’s getting 6-8 mpg sucking up all that .60-.80cent gas. Instead they had diesels drinking 40 cent fuel and getting twice the mileage. I know, it’s the exact reason I made the switch. My 94 gmc 6.5 was a great truck with ok power and great economy. My 98 dodge had more power and even better economy but the rest of the truck fell apart. I rodeoed a lot back the and drove all models of the big three. Ford had the Navistar 7.3 and it was a great engine but I found the truck tiring to drive. We always got to rodeos beat from the road. I bought a 01’ duramax cc and couldn’t believe the difference and the ride of a 4wd, dual wheel, cc. 87k and an injector went out. Dealer didn’t know how to fix it and GM had the wrong torque setting in the computer for the injector causing all the injectors to crack their ceramic seals and leak when the mechanic reinstalled them. ( found this out months after I traded that truck) That truck gave me huge power and 17-19mpg towing a 24’ gooseneck loaded with 12k of livestock. 01’ had no emissions other than an egr. Because they couldn’t fix it, they took it in trade on a 03’ duramax cc which I ran for almost 230k without even replacing a light bulb. Great truck, more power, more emissions, and of course, only 15 mpg towing that same load. GM offered no interest in 05’ so I got the same exact truck but now with the upgraded LLY motor. Even more power, more emissions, and yup, even less mpg with that same load. I ended up going with an Edge mileage chip which got me to 12-15 mpg towing. 267k I blew the turbo so I bought a very low mileage 08 duramax with banks exhaust, banks fresh air intake, and Tuner. So now I have huge power, DPF with regen, and terrible towing mileage. A friend with a new Ford is getting 9 mpg with his 2wd so my 10mpg with 4wd I’ll take. So what it looks like to me is the big three have succeeded in getting back what they had before the diesels came out. They have consumers paying $8k more for a diesel option that’s not going to give you any better mileage than a gas motor , now have us paying more for the fuel (often the cost of mid to premium gas), and now they’ve thrown on the price of the DEF into the mix. Today, if your tow truck is an occasional user, stay away from diesel, plain and simple. Believe me, as a diesel lover, it’s hard for me to say it but my next truck will be gas. Wouldn’t you think if it was about the environment and saving natural resources that they’d want LESS fuel consumed per mile? on the duramax DEF tank issue: GM has had some problems with the DEF tank heaters,them throwing a code, and putting the truck in limp mode. I suggest joining the “Diesel Page” forums and check out the duramax section. You’ll find your answers there