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chistech last won the day on February 20

chistech had the most liked content!

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About chistech

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    Junior Member
  • Birthday 09/28/1961

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  • Gender:
  • Location:
    Dartmouth, MA
  • Interests:
    Antique cars, hunting, rc planes, garden railroading, black powder rifle making, furniture making, restoration, team roping, horse training, the list goes on!


  • Biography
    Restored my first vehicle (23' Fort T Huckster) when I was 15, and just finished my second, 83' K5 @ 52

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  1. I hate when I do that. Doesn't seem to matter what the material is. I can do it turning something on the lathe or routing something working with wood. I build RC scale fighter planes and I've done the same thing. Just back to the drawing board. Thankfully, like you, it's never been many dollars in the mistake but always valuable time.
  2. A friend called me the other day and asked me to drop by his house, he had a surprise for me. Turns out he had a nice little 20’s golf bag with an iron, a driver, and a putter all from the same period. Should be a nice addition to the golf bag door area of the Olds when showing it.
  3. Went to Lebaron and Bonney/Hampton Coach last Thursday to pick up my interior kit. My roof isn't finished yet due to waiting on Haartz to have the material in stock. Nothing like the smell of new leather. I used to rodeo a fair amount and it brings back memories of putting a nice new saddle on my horse. The interior looks great and will just need need the normal trimming in areas like the corners and folds where too much material is bulked up. My passenger door has the ashtray and I had to request the panel be cut and stitched accordingly. If you look close, the stitching stops at the cutout area where on the non-ashtray panel, the stitching would continue up and across to meet at the corner. The door panels have the hidden nail strips already attached to make the panel installation much cleaner. I will start upholstering the springs and front seat frame soon. Have the wheels just about ready for their final urethane priming. Worked with Moses to get them all skim coated where any pitting was and masked them all up. Should be getting primed later in the week.
  4. Hi Gary, i went and picked up my 32’ Olds interior last Thursday at LBHC and inquired when I was there and they filled me in some about your situation. Glad you were able to come to something that would work. The materials for our cars are getting difficult to get. My own interior was held up for the leather because of the leather’s color, not for it being leather. My convertible top was not done because the T-49 fabric wasn’t available, and from all places Hartzz that’s right down the road from LBHC. They have to wait for the next production run. Even the bowdrill cloth to cover the bows is back ordered in the color I need. On another note: when I was at LBHC, it looks like they’re revamping one of their production floors/areas so this could be why some things are taking a little longer too. All companies have to upgrade and improve at one time or another and it always effects production. This could be the case.
  5. chistech

    1931 devaux coupe

    I actually just used it on my 31' engine for the oil distributor line to the rocker shaft. My oil line passes from the distributor outside the block through a hole and into the pushrod/lifter side of the motor then goes up to the rocker shaft fitting. It's just to the right of the oil return tube in the second picture at the center of the head/pushrod area. Much like copper tubing to bend but actually slightly easier. Very easy to put nice clean bends in but also easy to make a mess of as it is so soft. I used compression fittings in my application. I do know that there's cheap knock off copper/nickel tubing and you know it the minute you try to put a flare on it. The cheap or imitation stuff will split easily when you flare it.
  6. chistech

    1931 devaux coupe

    Yes, plain heater core hose is too soft and only around 1/8” wall thickness. Wall should be at least 1/4”. Hydraulic hose also has a woven steel mesh that is very difficult to drill through if your application requires it.
  7. When I purchased my wiring harness I couldn’t buy from my normal supplier, Rhode Island Wiring, because they did not have a pattern harness for a 32’ Olds and mine was in too poor of a condition to be copied so I chose to purchase my harness from another very well known wiring company. I ordered the hidden, self canceling directional switch so my harness would be slightly different from the OEM one. When I received my harness a quick look over showed me that it was very well made and of the correct type wiring but there was something that surprised me that was very incorrect. GM cars of the era used a metal twist bayonet type connector in places that they wanted the wires to easily come apart. On the Olds, the cowl harness could be detached from the frame using three of this connectors and removing the main power wire from the starter terminal, the wire at the generator cutout, and the wire to the stoplight switch. Removing the high and low beam wires at the dimmer switch would allow the body to removed frame the frame, splitting the harness leaving the chassi harness intact on the frame. On my new harness, in place of the bayonet connectors, modern bullet connectors are used on both wires with a Bakelite double female to plug them in to. My first thought was the bayonet connectors were no longer made but the last harness I received from RIW for a customer’s vehicle had them attached so I decided to call RIW as I needed to order another harness for another restoration. It turns out those connectors are still made so I ordered 8 of them to “fix” my $800+ harness. Because of the directional switch, I have a need for more connectors because there are more wires running to the rear and front fender lights. Looking at the remnants of my original harness I can see that the connectors are soldered on with the inside part of the connectors to the cowl harness to wires heading to the rear of the car. The one wire heading towards the front of the car is the horn power and it has the outside part of the connector on it. I will continue this pattern on all wires heading to rearand the front. The below picture shows the original harness alongside the new, the original bayonet connectors still on the wiring, the new bayonet connectors in the foreground, and the bullet connectors with the Bakelite double female connectors on the new harness. I will start to solder the connectors on tomorrow.
  8. chistech

    1931 devaux coupe

    The rubber couplings originally used were made of hose that used to be called “milk house” or milk parlor hose. The current name used is high temperature reinforced water hose or steam hose. Black hydraulic hose will work but the outer casing is not the correct material and not sure you’ll find red hydraulic hose but you can find it in high temperature reinforced water hose. The HTRWH is a larger outer diameter vs. inner diameter than most hydraulic hoses. The reason for this is not strength but insulation from the heat of the water inside so the hose can be handled by a person. The HTRWH also has longitudinal cord running through it like the hydraulic hose which will prevent twisting yet allows more flexibility than the hard hydraulic hose outer casing material. If your coupling is anything like mine it has a 1/2 or 5/8 ID with at least a 1”OD. The 5/8 ID red radiator hose offered by Restoration Supply is 1 1/16” OD and could work. The 1/2”ID hose listed is too small on the OD @ 7/8” though. I’ve seen thin metal sleeves on the 1/2” shafts to increase them to 5/8” so the thicker walled hose could be used and I’ve also found many who’ve used two different diameter hoses, one slid inside the other to give the small inside diameter and to also get the larger OD required. You could use the red 1/2”ID hose and the 7/8”ID hose with a final 1 1/4”OD. The coupling hose material used is just one of many items on my 32’ Olds that I have researched heavily for correctness. The length on my application is just about 2” long and a hose, or combination of hoses with a 1/4-3/8” thickness and that length should have no issue turning a water pump shaft in good condition. The slight flex of the hose was the reason hose was used in place of a hard coupling. The Oldsmobile pump faceplate is designed with some play so it can be moved some then tightened up to align the two shafts as close as possible. The picture shows my Olds generator/water pump coupling. Shafts are 1/2” and the hose has a 1 1/8”OD. The hose shown is the original OEM coupling.
  9. chistech

    1931 Buick 8-66S door adjustments- please help if you can

    Sorry I’m late to this thread but here’s what I know from installing quite a few GM bodies back on their frames and aligning the doors. #1 should basically only have a thin sheet of rubber between the sill and frame on both sides or thin webbing material but no shims. #1 bolts should be very tight. (Shimming #1 will cause alignment issues with the vertical edges of the hood and in most cases, something else is off if you have to shim #1 to get the hood edges right) #2 should have one canvas reinforced, very hard pad (not the lousy rubber shims they’re selling, more like a piece of tire sidewall) All shims required to align doors should be metal and not rubber. Rubber will allow the door to sag eventually again.#3 is the same as #2 and so is #4. #5 (rear corner metal sill bracket)has no shims at all and should be a metal to metal, solid mount. Bolts on #5, again, very tight. Basically the front and back of the body is mounted solid to the chassis and the center is moved up or down to align the doors. Occasionally this rule is broken with four door cars to get the rear door right and the #5 might have to be shimmed some but only with heavy canvas reinforced rubber. Doing this can cause problem though with rear fender bolt up and the look of the rear corner over the tank apron. What I have noticed is as the marque went up in value, the quality/thickness of shim material did also. A 31 chevy for example had a small square pad of 3/16 canvas reinforced rubber and in some cases, many small, thin “U” shaped metal shims. My 32’ Olds had 3/8” thick,4” diameter circles of heavy reinforced rubber with 1/8-3/16 thick metal U shims and they are twice the width/length of the Chevy ones. The Buick mounts I’ve seen are pretty much like the Olds rather than the Chevy. All the sills originally had a 1/4” pad of ash tacked to the sill bottoms at each mount except #5. Often these thin pads would split and deteriorate causing alignment issues and many more shims to be added than originally needed. My rewooded Olds roadster has almost perfect door alignment with not a single shim in place but my body is only sitting on the frame, not bolted down tight. I’m sure once #1 and #5 are socked up, I’ll have some shimming to do on the rest.
  10. chistech

    Brass Casting

    I will ask my neighbor as he is a professional polisher and specializes in brass beds and rare clocks. He has a huge inventory of original bed parts. He might have the exact thing or something extremely close. Will need better pictures and measurements. Pm me for my email and once I get the info from you, I’ll see what I can do.
  11. I still miss my 72’ Blazer which looked virtually identical on the inside. My 72 had open U joints at the front spindles but I believe the 69 front axles used Cardan closed ball type which limited the turning radius. My Blazer could turn inside most compact cars and my current restored 83 Blazer turns the same way. This is a sweet suburban for sure. It will bring a ton of money.
  12. Mine flew the nest a long time ago even though I’m only 56. Oldest is 35, lives local, and a veterinarian with her own practice with dog day care. Other daughter is 31, lives in FL, and a registered nurse. My son is 28, also lives in FL in his own house and is a union industrial electrical foreman running crews all through the southeast of the US. Son was the last to go and he left 6 yrs ago. While it’s great knowing all are doing well and on their own, it’s not so great when you no longer see them as often as you’d like to. So both my upstairs bedrooms are empty. One we use for company, one gets lots of car parts in it! My Olds interior is just about done at LB/HC and I will be going to pick it up soon. I’ll let the leather relax some then cover all the spring sets and the room will get filled again with seats for a while. Right now, even my upstairs tv room has a great looking set of 32’ Oldsmobile headlights, horns, and headlight bars in it! LOL NOTE: meant to add that after I cover the seats and put them in my spare room, I bag them just to keep them clean. I also put them in the car then pull the bags when they’re in place. The plastic helps the seat cushion slide under the seat back in some installations. I’m also going to ask LB/HC not to box my seat upholstery but instead, leave them flat so they get no creases or stress marks in the leather from folding.
  13. chistech

    1956 Ford Thunderbird

    For a good rotisserie try Greg Smith equipment. I’ve been using mine for years with no issues, both for bodies and chassis. When you’re done you can sell it used for close to what you paid for it new. For an engine dolly, my best ones have been made with large wood framed furniture dollies with 2x6 framework to support the motor along the oil pan. Super stable and easy to move around. When you’re done with the motor, unscrew the 2x6 frame and use it for something else.
  14. chistech

    1931 devaux coupe

    Funny you ask that. I was just looking at the very same thing today but in black for my 32’ Olds. Try Restoration Supply Company, They have black or red, on page 15 in their catalog. It’s radiator hose starting at 1/2” ID.
  15. I usually upholster my seats a month or two before they’re needed and put them up in my spare bedroom. This allows the materials to stretch and settle some. I look them all over to make sure I have no lumps, low spots, or unevenness and adjust any areas I don’t like so when I’m ready to install them, it’s just a drop in and I’m done.