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chistech last won the day on February 20

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About chistech

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    Junior Member
  • Birthday 09/28/1961

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  • Gender:
  • Location:
    Dartmouth, MA
  • Interests:
    Antique cars, hunting, rc planes, garden railroading, black powder rifle making, furniture making, restoration, team roping, horse training, the list goes on!


  • Biography
    Restored my first vehicle (23' Fort T Huckster) when I was 15, and just finished my second, 83' K5 @ 52

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  1. Just so you know know digital VOMs do not react that well to the rheostats on our gas gauges. I keep an old needle type meter I got from radio shack years back just for those tests. Same thing when testing heater switches and light dimmers in our cars. Often pulling the top off the sender, cleaning up the rheostat coil, the contact tip, then applying dielectric grease to the tip will fix any issues with the sender. Don’t forget to change out the cork floats. I had a pair simply disintegrate from the new gas. Often when looking for modern replacement floats it seems many are always sold out. The small aircraft supply houses always have them.
  2. My mid bow was missing both escutcheon plates for the wing bolts that hold the horizontal bows over the tops of the windows. As far as I know, no one makes a reproduction of this plate and many who own GM cabriolets don’t even know they are supposed to be on the car. Like I did with my missing freewheeling lever, I made up a wood pattern to send for casting. Once they’re cast and polished, they’ll go for chrome. First pictures are of an original. The rest are of my wooden pattern. The bolt goes through the plate and into the roof iron at an angle so that angle is incorporated into the escutcheon.
  3. 1931' Chevy 5 Passenger Coupe

    Thank you Dennis.
  4. I reupholster earlier cars but will relate what I see in your pictures. I've also had cars come in that had been reupholstered right over the original finish upholstery, not just the original padding. Any original panels will be down with tacks and not staples. The hog rings look correctly spaced and in the proper locations so that's a good reason to believe they are original. Most modern upholsters just ring the burlap and other areas where they seem fit. I've also found many original seats with odd ball pieces of material not related to the seat fabric. I believe the factory upholsters simply grabbed scraps to make straps, or hog ring binders when they needed. I've often found roofing material in seats to do just that. They would wrap an area that they didn't want to move or slide on a seat frame with some of the roof or vinyl then secure it with a hog ring. My guess would be that material was stickier and more likely to stay put than a fabric. I've also only seen wrapped coils in original springs. Some are with a cotton/ T shirt type material and some with burlap. Almost always the cotton ones have rusted coils as the burlap probably breathed better and would dry out easier if gotten wet. When it comes to rodents, I have a petrified collection of friends on a shelf if you can believe it so I can show my customers who was traveling with them. Rodents will burrow into any area they want and often chew wood in an area that's tight for them to get by. Once they open it up enough to squeeze by, it seems they stop chewing on it. If you see chewed areas anywhere, there will usually be a rodent nest close by. With the wood cars I've seen corners of exposed wood chewed off because the rodents wanted access. I've had original covered coils with tunnels chewed from one end to the other. If the rodent remnants are very old and dry, they shouldn't be a problem. If they are within the last 5yrs, they will be and the residual residue can be harmful to you and anyone in the car. There should be NO rodent odor whatsoever present once you're done cleaning preparing your springs for upholstery. If there is, remove all the padding and put new. HC always supplies new padding anyway so I always replace it. HC also has a few good videos to watch to get the idea on how to do a seat. One important thing is to make sure to stuff extra material on the tops of the seat backs. I'm very particular about nice rounded pleats on the backs of the early cars. Too often I go to shows and see the seat backs with flattened pleats at the top. It is very time consuming to stuff small pieces of wadding in each pleat top to make sure all match. You will also have to do a fair amount of stapling and unstapling to get the seats just right. Again, my knowledge comes from mainly 32's and earlier. Your 38 interior might be much easier. I know a 38 GMC front seat I did already had beaded edges that simply clipped in the bottom of the seat frame. No stapling or even no hog ringing.
  5. The wheel rack got dropped off at the body shop last week and hopefully we can start painting wheels this coming week. I completely stripped all the old paint off the splash aprons and prepped them for welding. Using the jigs I made up for the first board, I was able to bend the second one up in little time. I’ve ordered a new TIG welder but it won’t be delivered until April so I used the mig to stitch weld the seam for now making sure the seam is even and flat. Spot welded the end support irons to the boards. Now it will be just a matter of welding up the long seam with the new TIG. The boards were the last big fabrication job left to my restoration. When I bought the car, all the fenders had been primed and sanded but I didn’t know the condition of the rears as I never unwrapped them out of the plastic. Someone started to restore this car back in the late eighties and all that got done was the fenders. Turns out, when I unwrapped them they look absolutely perfect with just some dirt and streaks on them.lots of prep hours are going to be saved for sure. The insides are perfect just like the tops. These fenders basically look new with primer on them. Who ever did the work on the fendewas one hell of a body man!
  6. 1931' Chevy 5 Passenger Coupe

    I was told he truck is a 34 but I believe it’s a 35. Engine casting date is F 5 5 or June 5th, 1935. But as we know motors get switched like lights in a bathroom! Great story. It’s things like that in our lives that makes each one of us interesting and unique in our own way.
  7. 1931' Chevy 5 Passenger Coupe

    The 31 got loaded up this past week and a nice little pickup arrived for the same treatment.
  8. Main Bearing shims in Babbit Bearings

    Herm, are you testing us to see if we're paying attention? You say the first pictures are from a Peerless 6 cyl but I see 8 rods in the picture? LOL
  9. BROKEN TAP removal

    Now I’ve got to tap some stuff for the hell of it. I love bacon and now I have an excuse to cook some up!
  10. Main Bearing shims in Babbit Bearings

    Thanks for that knowledge Herm. Yes, the mains were bright colored and the rods more lead like coloring on my Olds. By your description it sounds like Olds used two different mixtures in their Babbitt. Possibly it has something to do with the depression and the very low production numbers for Olds that year but I could just be reaching on that. The 32’ Olds had a very long stroke so I’m sure it was more of the pounding and the weight of the old cast iron pistons taking their toll. The crank was supposedly factory balanced and during my recent rebuild my machine shop told me the crank was dead on as far as balance so I’m sure that had to have helped the mains stay in good shape. I’m not afraid of Babbitt one bit and when I was a kid my dad had a model T engine rebuilt. The guy poured the bearings and did all his machining right in his basement. He had the engine dolly set up on tracks that were layed on his cellar bulkhead stairs. He used a boat hand winch to lower the motor into his cellar. He had quite the operation. That motor ran perfectly, never gave one issue, and that old depot hack would go like a speedster. Talking with someone recently and I mentioned the above scenario and they knew right away who I was talking about. They told me he was considered one of the best. I believe he lived in Randolph MA.
  11. Who has Shipped an Engine Lately?

    Easiest thing to do is find a trucking company with terminals close to both the shipping party and the receiving party.first take your truck to the local gravel yard and weigh it. Once the motor is crated and on your truck, weigh it again and get your pallets weight. And 20lbs to be sure as most trucking companies will penalize for wrong weight. Like everyone has said, build a stand on the pallet to secure the engine and box it with Luann plywood and square stock at the corners. 1 1/4” sheet rock screws make for fast and secure application of the Luann. If it’s easier, make the Luann box while it’s on the ground then put the engine and pallet in your truck with an engine hoist. Leave it at the back of the bed. Once in the truck, screw on the Luann box. Go to the terminal and they will pull it off for you. receiving party can then go to their local terminal to pick it up. I’ve gotten great rates and service from ABF. MA to TX should be around $325-$350 or so. Try to keep it to as compact a pallet as possible and call it machinery. Don’t call it an antique car motor as some companies don’t want to haul antique car parts these days. I have shipped a few motors recently and some other large palletize parts. It’s pretty easy. Haven’t used Fastenal as they are much farther away than four other companies and I haven’t found any huge difference in cost although some big name companies can quote double just because they can. meant to add: a lift gate pickup or delivery is EXTREMELY expensive so I recommend to not even consider it plus cost goes up if delivered to a business address or residential address even in the residential address has a loading dock. Best way is terminal to terminal.
  12. Main Bearing shims in Babbit Bearings

    I was told that the alloys varied quite a bit between babbitters years ago with some using more or less tin and metallurgy today has better quality control than 80 years ago. Today’s electronic temperature controls also help contribute to a better Babbitt by maintaining the Babbitt material at a more precise temperature don’t they? Can you help me understand why most 32’ Olds owners have found perfect main bearings in their engines but all the rod bearings crumbling and falling out. The mains also have a different color than the rods. Same material?
  13. Doing my research earlier, it was my understanding that the Harrison company made two different heaters in 32' for GM cars. One was the brand labeled "Chevrolet" heater which was a small unit and the other was a larger unit with the Harrison name tag on the front. Later on, Harrison labeled the heaters with the different makes of automobiles, but I believe that wasn't until 33' or 34'. Prior GM cars all got the Harrison heater with the Chevrolet the only GM division to have a specific brand labeled heater. So with that research, I searched for and located an original, NOS, 1932 Harrison Senior heater to put in my Olds. Much to my surprise, my friend Joe, while looking for information on another 32' Olds subject, sent me what he had found in his original factory documents. Joe sent me the original 32' Olds technical bulletin showing the mounting and complete installation of the Harrison Sr. heater. This is a great find as it gives me 100% documentation of my heater installation as being a dealer installed option for the 32' model year. Using the measurements on the bulletins, I fabricated a simple cardboard template to see how the heater would fit and sure enough, it will clear the special decarbonizer unit that's mounted on the engine side of the firewall. The two hoses will basically sandwich the unit but is will be 100% correct. So I not only have the correct heater, but I have the documentation to show it's correct. Got to love this stuff! 1932 Oldsmobile Harrison Heater Installation.pdf
  14. Finished up the wheel painting rack today. Cut some 3/4 EMT unions in half to secure the wooden hubs in place on the tubing. A washer on each side allows them to revolve smoothly. I installed a single sheet rock screw in one dowel pin so the wheel can be rotated by the painter and the wheel won’t have to be touched. Also made up my front exhaust hanger out of 3/4 x1/8 steel. Using pictures provided me by my buddy Joe of his original hanger, I bent it up using a large socket and my even larger vise. Happy with the results. Just another little thing done. Got all my chrome back last Friday and started reassembling the two folding roof irons. Lots and lots of work in this car but it’s coming along. The original step rivets in the irons got ground off on the back side, then they got tapped for screws, then driven out and sent for chroming. The screws allow for the special rivets to be used yet the whole assembly can be tightened securely.
  15. Been super busy doing some remodeling to our bedroom so I’ve been spending all my free time finishing that up. I did start to make up a painting rack for the wheels so I wouldn’t hold up the paint shop. I moved off the running boards for now to get the rack done. Using a hole saw, I bored so plugs out of 2x6 pieces. Put a long 1/4-20 bolt through the center and put some washers and a nut to hold it. Chucked each one in the lathe and turned them to the proper diameter to fit just snug in the hub. I cut a relief in the plug so the inside of the hub would get painted. Cut out 6- 7” circles out of 1/2” ply and bored a 1/4” hole in the center. Using a 1/4” bolt to center the ply circle on turned plug, I then screwed the ply down to the back of the plug. Fitting the plug in the back of the wheel hub, I drilled 1/8” holes through the ply in the center of three lug nut holes. Turned some dowels down to match the lug hole diameter and screwed them to the ply. The plug with the plate and dowels securely holds the wheels but still allows for all the areas that need to be painted without any issues. The wheels are evenly spaced, every other, so the backs of the wheels are easily accessed for painting and the wheels never need to be touched until dry. Of course they rotate on the EMT tubing so painting all six wheels at one time should be easy. The rack frame was made a while back by me for hanging parts I was painting here in my own garage. I just added a couple 2x4s and drilled through them to secure the EMT. Will finish the rack up tomorrow and drop it off at the paint shop.