Terry Harper

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About Terry Harper

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  • Birthday 11/13/1963
  1. My 1910 Mitchell "parts car" project

    Joe, I think that's rather typical. On my big Wisconsin, which is supposed to be high quality, one of the studs for the intake manifold on the middle cylinder block is way offset from the centerline of the port as well. The funny thing is almost every one of the PT series engines I have examined has the same issue - all the intake manifolds have the same hole enlarged and offset yet each of the blocks is supposed to be interchangeable.
  2. Speedster Builds.............

    Alan, I spoke to Don today. He's waiting for winter to end just like me! At this point a little global warming would be most welcome! In regards to the valve shrouds - As Don and I discussed, since there are some differences between the early and later engines I am going to 3d print 2 halves that I can ship out to you to try. I should have these on the way to you by the end of next week. Once we know that these will work Don can drop the patterns off at the foundry that's near him and get a price for you. T.
  3. 1922 Elcar K6 Coupe Ultra Rare For Sale

    I am glad to see this survivor and I hope it goes to a good home. I have always been interested in Elcar - they produced some interesting and powerful automobiles for the time. This discussion reminds me of the Locomobile Junior 8 that was recently for sale. In the case of the Locomobile we had a wonderful survivor from a low volume, high quality prestige manufacturer and yet it took forever to move out of the low ball numbers. As with this Elcar would it ever be worth a big buck professional restoration? No but sensitively restored by a DIY type person and it would be both rewarding and unique. For a further discussion on Elcar: http://forums.aaca.org/topic/286100-elcar/
  4. My 1910 Mitchell "parts car" project

    Joe They sure made things more complicated than they needed too! Its like every pipe they decided just HAD to cross over to the other side of the block! I can't help in regards to the exhaust manifold other than if you were to cast it the pattern wouldn't be too difficult. You would need a follower to maintain the part line due to the inward angle at the down pipe connection. My beast is a different problem - The one piece manifold is interesting. It actually connected to a cone shaped blast pipe (similar to that used in a steam locomotive) projecting into a tin shroud/stack. You can see all the welds and repairs - that's from the expansion and contraction due to the distance between the blocks. The other pieces are the stacks that replaced it. The complete unit has a heater box attached. If I end-up with it in a speedster I thought about running three cast iron horizontal stacks with that neat rectangular profile out through the side of the hood but somehow I think people would have a problem with the side of their cars being blow torched (aka Beast of Turin!)
  5. 1925 Locomobile Junior 8 For Sale

    Al, I keep looking at this Locomobile. In my mind its a fantastic survivor and would be worthy of a sensitive restoration (enhanced oily rag perhaps?) Would it be worth dropping big bucks for a professional restoration? No. But, it sure makes sense if your a skilled do-it-your-selfer. Alas, it will have to remain a dream for me. Hopefully it will find a good home.
  6. My 1910 Mitchell "parts car" project

    Hi Alan, On my Wisconsin PT the manifold is brass tubing. The OD IS 1-3/4" with a .065 wall thickness. Interestingly the pipe connecting the cylinders is all one piece with holes bored to correspond with the T-fitting for cylinders 3 & 4 and the t/elbows that connect to the lower pipe. The fittings are simply bored to diameter and slid onto the tube and soldered in place. Unfortunately I didn't know that until I got to look inside an original and got my hands on a factory drawing so my fittings are simply counter bored at each end and the pipe is short sections cut to fit. Fortunately once its all together no one will know the difference other than me!
  7. Speedster Builds.............

    Hello Alan, I have to get on his case too! He owes me two more sets of valve shrouds (Wisconsin model "A") and some water fittings as well! Typically he hibernates during the winter but I don't want him to forget! On the other hand his price is beyond fair so I don't like to push too hard! T.
  8. My 1910 Mitchell "parts car" project

    Joe, That is fantastic! There is a lot of time and wonderful craftsmanship represented there! Bravo!
  9. Speedster Builds.............

    Hello Alan, This is the setup I will be using. I have the castings for the brackets - just (as usual) need time to get at them! The brackets simply take the place of a screw in each of the cover plates. Its hidden by the hood but you can see the tube carrying the wires down to the magneto and a poor quality but overall view
  10. Manufacture part from CAD file?

    Very nice! On your 3D printed pattern - don't forget draft (slope to the vertical sides perpendicular to the direction of pull) this allows the pattern to be pulled easily from the sand. The typical angle is from 2-1/2 - 3 degrees from vertical. Also you will need to add allowance for machining. For example if you have a surface that needs to be milled or faced flat we would add 1/16" or more to the thickness to allow enough material to be removed that will allow removal of all imperfections without having the finished part end-up undersize after machining. A foundry that comes highly recommended is Cattail Foundry run by the King family in Pennsylvania. They are also very good at using original parts as the pattern.
  11. Manufacture part from CAD file?

    Having spent considerable time working with 3D printing, CAD & CNC I too suggest 3d printing a pattern and having a foundry cast it. As other have said you will need to scale it up slightly to take into account shrinkage rate for aluminum (approx. 1/8"+/- per foot) As for machining it out of solid. It is doable but your looking at a lot of machine time. Looking at the tread pattern (square corners) EDM might be the way to go for the tread pattern. Foundry work seems to get short shift lost among the high tech of 3D printing and CNC but in many applications it truly is the most cost effective and efficient way to go. Here is a 3D printed pattern and core box I made awhile back for a bronze housing for an oil pump drive. I had a friend who does backyard metal casting work his black art and I soon had a finished casting in hand. We usually think of CNC for milling components from solid. In this case since the time and wasted material from CNC were prohibitive we used the technology to mill patterns and core boxes. These are for the valve shrouds for a Wisconsin T-head engine as used by Stutz and a variety of other automobile and truck manufacturers.
  12. There is no electricity at the museum. For now use an electric motor powered by a gas generator. It would be real neat to have a small steam engine to run it or perhaps a make & break.
  13. Very nice! Along with the steam theme here is my ride for a couple of events per year: Its a 20 ton Lombard Steam log hauler dating from approx. 1908. Its owned and operated by the Maine Forest & Logging Museum in Bradley, Maine. These machines were designed to haul long sled trains of timber (up to 300 tons) over winter ice roads. We have swapped out the skis for wheels so we can operate it during the summer months. In the photo I am working the throttle while my daughter makes sure I am doing it all correctly. Way out in front is the steersman. When we get board with steam (is that possible?) we have the 1932 10 ton gasoline Lombard to operate. This particular machine is on loan to the museum. And... a video link to a film taken during the Museum's Living History Days event. Steam & Gasoline Lombard Maine Forest & Logging Museum
  14. Well since other projects got in the way it took a bit longer than planned but here are the patterns for the Milbrath magneto. I setup the coupling halves as a match plate so four complete couplings can be cast at once. I also included the runner and gates as part of the pattern. After machining the halves can be split using a slitting saw. The spyder pieces are just a simple one sided pattern. Since I didn't have a drive gear to measure it would be best to hob a new one to match the coupling. This was a fun project which I enjoyed tremendously. These were sized for casting in aluminum but can be cast in iron as well - the difference in shrinkage rate would make them just a tad bigger which shouldn't be much of an issue with the parts. Mike I know you don't need a set now but if anyone wants still wants or needs a set please let me know. I also have a shop drawing to go with it. Best regards, Terry
  15. My 1910 Mitchell "parts car" project

    That's a neat machine Joe!