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new carb, Willys still won't run


danc

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John at the Carb Shop found a new carb for me that fits PERFECT on my 28 Willys-Knight!

The problem I have now is that I can't get it to even start to fire up. I've got an electric fuel pump (6V) and between the pump and the carb is a Purolator dial type, I'm guessing restrictor, for the fuel flow. I have it set about 1/2 way (the setting that was on the car when I got it) and I have adjusted the carburetor at the settings recommended in the instruction sheet and still nothing. I've checked for spark and that seems to be fine and I have a new 6V Die Hard battery and a new 6V coil. plugs are clean and gapped as well as the points. There is gas getting to the carburetor, but it doesn't seem like gas is getting out of the carb to the engine. After trying to start it for a couple of minutes I'll pull a plug to see if they are wet and they aren't.

What am I doing wrong?

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First, put your hand over the carb intake and crank it to see if you are getting suction. I am not familiar with the Willy's Knight, but if your valves are not timed or sealing correctly or you have an intake leak, you will soon know. The new carb cannot work without vacuum.

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Can you tell if its rich or lean? Have you tried full choke and lots of throttle and ease off on the choke when it starts. this is also an easy way to flood the engine so be careful!

Next dumb question...what shape are the spark plugs in? bad plugs are very fussy about fuel mixture and too much fuel shorts them out.

Bill

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I can't tell about rich or lean cause it won't run long enough. From all appearances the plugs look good. I've regapped them as recommended and cleaned any soot or minor carbon off. Carburetor instructions said to turnout idle adjustment 1 to 1 1/2 turns and mainjet 1 1/2 to 2 turns. Done that. Have my spark lever "up" and the choke full and as it starts I push the choke in and then it runs rough and won't take any gas and then dies. I'm usually not this dumb about cars. There's a Purolator fuel regulator before the carb that has a dial on top. It's set at 2 1/2 out of a 5 (full open). I've tried it at different settings and the results are still the same.

I really want to drive this car!

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Did it run b4 the new carb? These updraft carbs can have trouble getting enough fuel to the cylinders if it is not cranking very fast. Try turning off "all" other electrics and jumping it with 12 volts. The starter will spin the motor faster. If that does it,then your 6V starter may need cleaning and lubrication of bearings. I've seen them "tar" up and drag the starter down considerably. Don't worry about the 12V on your starter. I converted my 28 WK 66A to 12V 4 years ago and am running the original 6V starter. No problems. If It ran b4 the new carb and the faster spin doesn't help, your carb may be way out of adjustment. Oh, with the 6 V fuel pump you shouldn't need the regulator.

Mark

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Forgot to add an item that stumped me really bad about 3 yrs ago. My pick up tube in the tank plugged. There is supposed to be a screen device over the end, but mine was missing. The tube ends right in the center of the drain plug hole. Try compressed air blowing lightly back to the tank. Have someone listen for bubbles. If none or few, you may have an obstructed fuel line.

Mark

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I would vote that it sounds like a vacuum leak condition causing it to run too lean. Check any connections to the intake manifold like for wiper motor and disconnect and plug with a pipe plug to eliminate that system until the problem is identfied.

I'd also suggest even if the battery is new, charge it over night just to be sure it is up to desired voltage level since you have been doing a lot of cranking on it with the trouble situation.

Another question is how long has the car sat since it last ran normally? I realize the Knight sleeve valves technically are Desmodromic and can't stick open unless one or more is damaged in such a way to cause a cylinder to be non functional and tax the rest of the engine.

Where are you located? Perhaps a mechanically inclined AACA member living near by could stop by and make an observation that would help. Stude8

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You people are great! It's Sunday now and I'll have most of the day to check all of these suggestions out.

I don't know how long it has been run normally. The man I bought it from said that he only drove it a few times whatever that means.

It ran the same way with the old Tillotson carb on it and then I decided to adjust the main jet and it broke off along with most of the lower casting, thus the reason why I had to replace the carb.

I'm located in Springboro, Ohio.

Thanks again everyone and I'll let you know how this turns out!

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Mark,

I bought a 1928 WK T-100 with I believe a BIG 6 engine. Looking for manual. Hey, I have been out fogging the Mississippi river valley! The oil rectifier when opened up was a mess. I have thought about getting in touch with the U.S. dept of natural resources because my 1928 seems to pull oil right up out of the asphalt and deposit it in my tail pipe! HELP!!!!!

I read your posts and would VERY much like to talk to you.

My name is Richard Williams and I live North of St. Louis in Illinois. If you could either EMAIL me or perhaps call me and I will call you back on my nickel I would surely be greatful.

Thank you for your time and consideration in advance.

Richard Williams

863 673 2209

LAZYRIVERTRADING@AOL.COM

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I wanted to thank everyone that responded to my problem. I did everything everyone suggested and THE MIGHTY KNIGHT HAS RISEN!! It seems the MAIN culprit was vauum leaks at the old Stewart Warner fuel pump, also bad plugs. Now I'm on to the rectifier and a hung up right front brake.

Thanks again and soon I'll post some pictures.

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