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Mark66A

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Everything posted by Mark66A

  1. Well, here is one of the '12. New paint and seat upholstery by Gottleib in 1950. Art had a new top made in 1970. The car was on the cover of "Cars and Parts Sept 1984. Looks the same now. Jerry Szostak (WOKR sleeve valve guru) rebuilt the motor. Said it was very similar to the Stoddard-Dayton-Knight motor he did a few years ago.
  2. Ed, I could not locate new or NOS front wheel bearings for the H/J-890. I did get a quote to have some made.... very big $$$. Fortunately the ones on the cars are OK. If you find a source that doesn't require access to the national treasury, please let us all know. In response to long term engine builds - yes that happens, but is usually an outsourcing issue or backlog in a machine shop (We need more machinists and craftsmen). Just got the 1912 Stearns-Knight back from a six year engine rebuild. Terrific job done. Starts and runs like a champ. Doing daily break in runs. The engine
  3. Ed, Sent you a series of emails yesterday.
  4. Will a Stromberg SF 3 work as a replacement for a single barrel Tillotson on the 8 cyl Stearns Knight?
  5. By the way, the 1927 8 cyl G sedan in Australia got the needed parts and was sold at an auction there a few years ago.
  6. Dave Bell's 1929 Stearns Knight Model M Coupe is still running and touring regularly in far eastern North Dakota. The current owner is a young man in his 30's who is doing a great job of preservation. He had done just enough engine work so that the car tours very well and for long distances. It's appearance is the same as when Dave Bell owned it - no changes there. The suspension has been tightened up and it rides and handles better than it did a few years ago. Not bad for an 88 year old lady. Oh, and she has cut back on her smoking habit due to some of the engine work.
  7. I had an enclosed trailer built in 2002 with 15" rims and two 5500 lb axles. For the next 4 years I blew out a complete set every cross country trip I made. Had the builder replace the axles with 7200# capacity and bought the highest load rated radial tires I could buy. No problem since. I run it about 8000 miles per summer with about a total gross weight of 12,500#. My original axle and tire combo was just too light. I think you'll be surprised if you weight your rig loaded with vehicle and all the tools and parts you may carry.
  8. Would appreciate knowing your casting source. Always good knowledge to have! Vintage & Classic does cast in any metal you want. They use some system to force the molten metal into the mold under high pressure to get better detail.
  9. More info on Vintage and Classic Reproductions. I sent them a set of handles and they reproduced them in short order and in very good detail. Their web site has pictures of hundreds of items they have available for many cars. Mark
  10. Try www.vintageandclassicreproductions.com. I have purchased door handles from them and they are far superior to any I have seen here in the states. They are located in Australia. Prices including shipping compete with USA reproductions but are much better. Mark
  11. Talk to the Coker folks in Tennessee. I find them honest & informative. They tell me the Excelsior tires are racing tires - they are stickier and have a better grip - which means they do not get as good wear as their other tires. I've been running their Goodrich 6.00 X 20s and get about 15 to 16k miles out of them. I remember pre-radial days and believe that is about all we can expect. I just bought a set of Firestones to replace the Goodrich tires - the Firestones have a wider tread - I'm hoping to avoid some of the wandering as I follow tire tracks down the pavement. Mark
  12. Forgot to add an item that stumped me really bad about 3 yrs ago. My pick up tube in the tank plugged. There is supposed to be a screen device over the end, but mine was missing. The tube ends right in the center of the drain plug hole. Try compressed air blowing lightly back to the tank. Have someone listen for bubbles. If none or few, you may have an obstructed fuel line. Mark
  13. Did it run b4 the new carb? These updraft carbs can have trouble getting enough fuel to the cylinders if it is not cranking very fast. Try turning off "all" other electrics and jumping it with 12 volts. The starter will spin the motor faster. If that does it,then your 6V starter may need cleaning and lubrication of bearings. I've seen them "tar" up and drag the starter down considerably. Don't worry about the 12V on your starter. I converted my 28 WK 66A to 12V 4 years ago and am running the original 6V starter. No problems. If It ran b4 the new carb and the faster spin doesn't help, your car
  14. I agree with the possibility of an air pocket. They can at times be pesky to get rid of. The other reaheating problem on new rebuilds can be pain on the radiator. My car runs over 15 degrees cooler now that I am running a "bare" radiator core.
  15. A 1928 Model 66A (Great Six) - larger engine than your car - and a 1928 Model 56 - smaller engine than your car completed the Great Race in 2004 from Jacksonville, Fl to Monterey, Ca. Each car had an overdrive unit to reduce engine RPM. Both cars ran highway speeds for over 4500 miles. The 66A at times exceeded 75 mph - I know - I was driving. Your 70 should be fully capable of sustained 45 to 50 mph without overdrive. If that info can't persuade you to keep it, then show it to a prospective buyer and tell him not to be shy in pushing it a little. 45mph speeds were common when your car was n
  16. Regarding your valve sealing problem. If, during rebuild, the grooves on the sleeves were cleaned and all carbon removed (ask me, I did it too), you will experience low power until the carbon accumulates again in the grooves. Took my car about 10,000 miles, then I began to experience a signficant increase in power. All the sleeve valve car ads say "power increases with use". That's because the engine is sealing itself as the carbon accumulates. If your friend drives the car it WILL regain it's power.
  17. Have no fear!!! These are great engines and the cost of rebuild IS NOT excessive. I'm in the process of rebuilding a 53 Ford Flathead and have significantly more invested in parts and machining than the rebuild on my 1928 Willys Knight Great Six sleeve valve motor (255 CID, 70HP). The Sleeve valve motor was stuck solid when I got it. Soaked it for 9 months, got it free, bolted on a carb and started it! I replaced the rings, had an engine shop boil out the block, hone the sleeves & bore and take 0.010 off the crank. Put in new babbit bearings, and have been running it since. Total over 20,
  18. According to the "Lester-Steele Handbook of Automobile Specifications 1915-1942", the Pierce Arrow used an "AC" fuel pump. The model is not specified, however 1929 was AC's first year of fuel pumps. Their first pump did not have a model number but is referred to as a Model A. Later replacement castings had "Model A" cast into the body of the pump. I suspect yours would be either an A or B pump. A source of knowledge on the correct pump for your car would be Arthur Gould Rebuilders in New York. They just rebuilt my "AC Model A" pump. They advertise in Hemmings and would know what model pump y
  19. Have you tried WOKR club? I'm currently having inside handles cast for my '28 via a contact with Jerry Szostak. Also the club has lists of those who have your car. You may be able to borrow a handle. Let me know if you need contact info. Mark
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