Mark66A

Aye! Fooling around here with a few Stearns Knights. They were built on Eulcid Ave. in Cleveland. The plant was torn down just a few years ago.

Steve: I have photos of 18 of the remaining 8 cyl cars. There are 9 running cars, 8 of which are in the USA - 2 of those in museums - and 1 in Australia. I do not believe any of those have an original Tillotson installed including the one in the AACA museum. Several of the non-running cars have Tillotson carbs still mounted, but I doubt any are able to be saved. A Tillotson was just rebuilt for a third 8 cyl Stearns currently under restoration, but some of the critical parts were re-cast in brass many years ago - thus not at "original" carb either. This carb was likely the largest Tillotson updraft carb made in that era. The 1927 Stearns 8 used an early version of the carb, and the very late 1929 Stearns 8 used a Tillotson 2BBL updraft carb. Anybody ever seen one? An excellent working or restorable carb for these cars would have to be made of that ultra rare metal called unobtanium. Pete and I thank you-all for all the input!

1925 Stearns Knight Model S, Series 6-95, Militaire Touring is close. May be a different model.

1925 Stearns Knight Model S, Series 6-95, Militaire Touring

That's a mid-20's Willys Knight!

How can I identify which Gemmer steering box I have. My car is a 1929 Stearns Knight Model H-8-90. It is a big car -over 6,000 lbs. I have had the steering box apart and saw no visible wear. It has thrust ball bearings above and below the worm and the shaft turns in babbit beyond the thrust bearings - above and below the worm. I put 0 rings near the outer end of the steering shaft below the worm and on the pitman arm shaft. The boxes I have seen all leaked fluid. One box I took apart had grease settled in the bottom of the case, and no lubrication where it was needed. I believe these are supposed to contain heavy oil. There are alemite fittings on my cases which may have led to the grease. Alemite fittings were also used for heavy oil. I'll have to take one apart again and look a the bearing on the end of the sector shaft to see what the cage is made of. I don't remember any problem with it - I do recognize pot metal when I see it and try to replace it every time. That era had a lousy mix for the pot metal.

I thought so but the radiator shell didn't fit!

I think it may be a Paige? Any other guesses?

Four pictures of the family car. What is it?

Have a few spare parts here for a timken worm drive axle. Looks like you have one of those. What ratio? Also have a few things for bendix 3 shoe brakes - don't know if Stutz used them though. Is your column switch a Stewart Warner with 4 position and 5 lugs?

Don't know about the cars, but Doran is half way between Breckenridge and Campbell at the junction of Hwy 9&75 in Wilkin County. Doran now boasts a population of about 70.

Door handles and other nifty stuff available at: Vintageand Classic Reproductions - Stutz Parts I've bought a lot of stuff from them and recommend highly.

I had an enclosed trailer built in 2002 with 15" rims and two 5500 lb axles. For the next 4 years I blew out a complete set every cross country trip I made. Had the builder replace the axles with 7200# capacity and bought the highest load rated radial tires I could buy. No problem since. I run it about 8000 miles per summer with about a total gross weight of 12,500#. My original axle and tire combo was just too light. I think you'll be surprised if you weight your rig loaded with vehicle and all the tools and parts you may carry.

The best definition of the classic era, it's demise by 1948 and an overall argument for the narrower view thus excluding the Town and Country,is the forward written by Michael Furman in his book "Motorcars of the Classic Era". (I should get applause for that long sentence) Additionally the photos tell the story of why is a car a classic! In am a fairly new member of CCCA. My impression so far is:Great Magazine, persnickity arguments over classificaton, exclusive not inclusive, snooty, expensive events, no compelling reason to participate. As to this "public airing of dirty laundry" seems to me like some T&C owners didn't know the meaning of "no" and kept asking until the wore the board down.

Land & building too? Or would it have to be moved? I've been through your site - overwhelming. Needs to be preserved. Question is how. Moving cost woould be enormous.

Larry: Try browsing through the door handles on this web page. http://www.vintageandclassicreproductions.com/Catalogue.htm I had them reproduce several sets for me that I could not find anywhere. They did a great job, and now they have mine available for other folks! Some hardware was used by multiple manufactures - so check all the car pages. Mark

Would appreciate knowing your casting source. Always good knowledge to have! Vintage & Classic does cast in any metal you want. They use some system to force the molten metal into the mold under high pressure to get better detail.

More info on Vintage and Classic Reproductions. I sent them a set of handles and they reproduced them in short order and in very good detail. Their web site has pictures of hundreds of items they have available for many cars. Mark

Try www.vintageandclassicreproductions.com. I have purchased door handles from them and they are far superior to any I have seen here in the states. They are located in Australia. Prices including shipping compete with USA reproductions but are much better. Mark

Talk to the Coker folks in Tennessee. I find them honest & informative. They tell me the Excelsior tires are racing tires - they are stickier and have a better grip - which means they do not get as good wear as their other tires. I've been running their Goodrich 6.00 X 20s and get about 15 to 16k miles out of them. I remember pre-radial days and believe that is about all we can expect. I just bought a set of Firestones to replace the Goodrich tires - the Firestones have a wider tread - I'm hoping to avoid some of the wandering as I follow tire tracks down the pavement. Mark

Forgot to add an item that stumped me really bad about 3 yrs ago. My pick up tube in the tank plugged. There is supposed to be a screen device over the end, but mine was missing. The tube ends right in the center of the drain plug hole. Try compressed air blowing lightly back to the tank. Have someone listen for bubbles. If none or few, you may have an obstructed fuel line. Mark

Did it run b4 the new carb? These updraft carbs can have trouble getting enough fuel to the cylinders if it is not cranking very fast. Try turning off "all" other electrics and jumping it with 12 volts. The starter will spin the motor faster. If that does it,then your 6V starter may need cleaning and lubrication of bearings. I've seen them "tar" up and drag the starter down considerably. Don't worry about the 12V on your starter. I converted my 28 WK 66A to 12V 4 years ago and am running the original 6V starter. No problems. If It ran b4 the new carb and the faster spin doesn't help, your carb may be way out of adjustment. Oh, with the 6 V fuel pump you shouldn't need the regulator. Mark

I agree with the possibility of an air pocket. They can at times be pesky to get rid of. The other reaheating problem on new rebuilds can be pain on the radiator. My car runs over 15 degrees cooler now that I am running a "bare" radiator core.

A 1928 Model 66A (Great Six) - larger engine than your car - and a 1928 Model 56 - smaller engine than your car completed the Great Race in 2004 from Jacksonville, Fl to Monterey, Ca. Each car had an overdrive unit to reduce engine RPM. Both cars ran highway speeds for over 4500 miles. The 66A at times exceeded 75 mph - I know - I was driving. Your 70 should be fully capable of sustained 45 to 50 mph without overdrive. If that info can't persuade you to keep it, then show it to a prospective buyer and tell him not to be shy in pushing it a little. 45mph speeds were common when your car was new. Good luck with your decision.

Regarding your valve sealing problem. If, during rebuild, the grooves on the sleeves were cleaned and all carbon removed (ask me, I did it too), you will experience low power until the carbon accumulates again in the grooves. Took my car about 10,000 miles, then I began to experience a signficant increase in power. All the sleeve valve car ads say "power increases with use". That's because the engine is sealing itself as the carbon accumulates. If your friend drives the car it WILL regain it's power.