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55 Buick Special - Horn wire broken at contact ring


Guest Bob 55 Special

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Guest imported_Bob 55 Special

Has anybody had any luck fixing a broken wire at the contact ring? The plastic / nylon sleeve has moved down the shaft as well as the copper (?) ring that goes on the out side of it. They are now seemingly out of reach. I can feed a new wire but cannot figure out how to get the plastic ring and it metal cover back in place. Not even sure how one would go about soldering the wire back in place. <img src="http://www.aaca.org/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/confused.gif" alt="" />

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This is probably a dumb question, but have you removed the steering wheel from the column? I don't have my '56 anymore, but I seem to recall that when you removed the steering wheel, it allowed pretty good access to the horn wire and plastic sleeve. You have to use a puller to get the steering wheel off.

Pete Phillips, BCA #7338

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Guest imported_Bob 55 Special

The plastic sleeve on my 55 is down the steering column by the brake peddle. The wire broke off way down there. Thanks

Bob Brasses

#39298

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Sorry to say the only way to fix this will require lots of disassembly both under the hood and under the dash to get the steering jacket off. You need to be down to the steel rod that the steering turns. When you get that far check back for tips on fixing the contact.

Willie

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Guest imported_Bob 55 Special

Ho Boy!

Anyone have good directions on how to remove the steering jacket?

Can it be done without removing the entire column? The shop manual isn't clear on how to do it.

Bob Brasses

#39298

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Guest imported_NikeAjax

OH BOY THAT'S S*%T-LOADS OF HAPPY-HAPPY-JOY! Perhaps this can be of help, I'm not sure, I hope it is:

I have a 1956 Century, but what I did was pull the bracket(?) that holds the spring loaded contact, this is near the brake peddle. You might want to remove the peddle when you do this for room. Get a mirror and a good light so you can see a little better too, there's not a lot of room to work in. The shaft has a collar that the contact rides on, behind this is a cut-out where the wire is soldered on. Turn the wheel until you find/see this cut-out. Use a good quality soldering gun to re-solder your new wire in and out with too; don't try to use a small iron, cause this will make you feel as if it can't be done, they just don't get hot enough. The right length is important when you put in a new wire, so try to make it as close as you can to what you take out. Good luck, I hope this works for you; I had to figure this one out by myself!

Jay

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Guest imported_Bob 55 Special

Hope I can hook the plastic sleeve and copper cover and pull them back up the shaft. I'll give that a try. Should they be glued in place? Not much room to work 2" x maybe 3/8".

Guess if I cannot get the pieces back up the shaft I'll have to remove the jacket!

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Guest imported_NikeAjax

Sorry, I'm not sure about the glue-thing! Could you try compressed air, from the bottom where the contact bracket is, to maybe push it up, or use something to push the pieces out, like a, gulp, coat-hanger?!?!?!?! If you try compressed air, have a pillow case or bag covering the wheel so as not to have the piece shoot out too far. It sounds weird, but sometimes the really weird stuff works, whereas nothing else does--good luck!

Jay

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Great pic, progoofoff! And an interesting solution to the problem. Just hope you've got everything insulated good under there. Would be a shame to set yer rug on fire.

His pic shows an old Shell gas station in Winston-Salem, I believe 30s vintage styling. Am I right it's the only one left?

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Me too---and in shows I was always in the car when the judge said"Blow the horn". He didn't say how ,so I would push down on the horn ring with my right hand and step on the button under the carpet with left foot. Works real well.

Joe M

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Guest imported_Bob 55 Special

Under the carpet it is! At least for now.

Currently have a button mounted where the cigarette lighter goes. The button bracket was a perfect match! Two screws and it was done! Wife kind of likes being able to honk the horn! Maybe I'll put the under the carpet one in parallel with the other.

Thanks everyone for your help!

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I had a paddle type horn button under the dashboard for years before I finally pulled the steering gear for other reasons (it leaked bad) and fixed it right. The brass contact ring on the shaft was shot, and the rubber isolator had hardened and slid down the shaft. Pulling the power steering gear out isn't too bad. If and when you decide to do it - follow the shop manual - read it over a couple of times the night before. Pull out your battery - you will need the extra room to maneuver the gearbox out of the engine compartment. Take a digital picture or a quick video of the wiring down by the jacket- you only will have to remove a few wires as I recall to maneuver the jacket down as you lift the gearbox up in the engine compartment. One think to watch for is the spring that allows the trans lever to follow the detents - is on the shaft and may slip off or get stuck inside the jacket - no big deal - just keep your eyes open for it. If you need a new contact coller, you can use a copper plumbing fitting - its thicker and fits tight over the rubber insulator. I bonded the whole thing together with some contact cement on the shaft. Oh - one other thing - when you pull the horn contact button out, get a pencil in the hole on the steering shaft, and mark the shaft where the button goes so you know where to put the contact on the shaft on reassembly. When you put the gearbox back in the jacket, I wrapped the threaded end with masking tape to protect the bearing in the top of the jacket. Reinstallation is better with a helper - the steering box isn't that heavy, but with the long shaft on it its cumbersome to move around and recenter in the shaft.

Have fun!

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I knew someone was going to ask me that!

It just so happens I have a spare steering shaft isolator in the garage and it measures 1 inch outside diameter. I got a copper sweat reducer at Home Depot that went from 1 inch to 3/4 inch and hacksawed off the 3/4 inch part. The remaining 1 inch part fit nicely on the isolator. I suppose you could use a 1" repair sleeve as well. I put the assy together on the shaft with either contact cememt or Goo, moving it into position while everything was wet.

I think when I was in the middle of this I was posting on the board and Willie (Old-Tank) was helping me out and someone passed this idea on to me along the thread around the same time I was hunting for a new brass collar. Do a search on 55 Power Steering in 2002 and I bet the old thread comes up.

The brass contact ring on the original steering box and my junkyard replacement were made of paper thin brass and disintegrated.

Watch for more posts - my junkyard replacement shaft carried me for a season and now its starting to seep. If I can't fix it, I will probably just suck it up and send it out for a total rebuild.

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Actually it was Ken's idea to use the plumbing part. I paid a machine shop to make one for me and that works well too, but Ken's is considerably cheaper. All of mine seep some oil...I don't think it is possible to make a Buick leak free unless there is no oil in it!

Willie

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Guest imported_bjr

I used the plumbing fitting idea on my 54 with power steering. I used a straight coupling and soldered the wire onto it. It's been working fine for 3 years now. Be careful to measure where the hole in the jacket for the contact is. The insulator on the steel steering shaft will slide on the shaft and may not line up with the contact that rubs on it after the new copper fitting is installed. If you measure from the end where the steering wheel mounts you can check it after the fitting is installed and before the jacket is put back on. It would be a major pain to put the jacket back on and find out that the contact doesn't rub on the new sleeve. Brian

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