MacMike Posted July 5 Share Posted July 5 I am transferring a rebuilt 1927 Buick 27/25 front axel assembly onto another 1927 Buick 27/25 newly restored chassis, but without the old springs. I have new re-set springs for the new build. When removing the front axel assembly from the doner car, I found wedges stamped with a “4”, thin to the front, under each leaf set. I gather these are likely used on the doner car to correct Castor and reduce any rear axel-drive shaft vibration. I am now uncertain if these wedges should be installed, with the same orientation, under the new spring set on the rebuild chassis. Does anyone have any experience with this situation or advice about their inclusion or exclusion in the rebuild? Keen to hear of any such dealings. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
edinmass Posted July 5 Share Posted July 5 (edited) Assemble the car with no shims. Do a castor and camber sweep as well as check the toe. Then go from there. With the shims installed the way you describe…….I would expect a severe case of death wobble. Edited July 5 by edinmass (see edit history) 3 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hubert_25-25 Posted July 5 Share Posted July 5 These are the instructions for setting the caster from the 1925 Buick shop manual. The top slants back 1 to 2 degrees. Postive Caster. The thick side of the shim belongs on the rear. You could make the same early set up and use a bubble. With modern alignment equipment, I would go with how an alignment tech. would set the car up. That said, I have no shims, so I assume I am at 0 caster. I have not had any problems. Hugh 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Oregon Desert model 45 Posted July 5 Share Posted July 5 Order a shop manual so you have it handy for the next issue. Reprints are available online. https://www.themotorbookstore.com/1927-buick-shop-manual.html?gad_source=1&gclid=EAIaIQobChMImaSfgI6PhwMV3M3CBB2PQAnlEAQYASABEgKXhPD_BwE 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MacMike Posted July 5 Author Share Posted July 5 Many thanks to those who responded - most helpful advice. On advice, I will omit the wedges in the new rebuild. Make the alignment adjustments according to the manual specifications, and hopefully not require and wedges at all with the new chassis, new front axel and new set springs. Now have a scanned version of 1927-28 Workshop Manual, as recommended. Just about to install new bushings in the spindles, ream to fit new king pins; add new bearings + shims as required. Need also to fit new bushings in the front brake backing plate universal yoke bearing assemblies, and universal yoke assemblies as well. on completion, the final installation of front axel assembly, new springs in the new chassis can proceed. Will report the outcome. 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
27donb Posted July 7 Share Posted July 7 On 7/4/2024 at 11:58 PM, MacMike said: I am transferring a rebuilt 1927 Buick 27/25 front axel assembly onto another 1927 Buick 27/25 newly restored chassis, but without the old springs. I have new re-set springs for the new build. When removing the front axel assembly from the doner car... Would love to see pictures of this process and project! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ramair Posted July 13 Share Posted July 13 On 7/4/2024 at 9:53 PM, Hubert_25-25 said: These are the instructions for setting the caster from the 1925 Buick shop manual. The top slants back 1 to 2 degrees. Postive Caster. The thick side of the shim belongs on the rear. You could make the same early set up and use a bubble. With modern alignment equipment, I would go with how an alignment tech. would set the car up. That said, I have no shims, so I assume I am at 0 caster. I have not had any problems. Hugh I have recently have had an education on front end alignment 💸. I would say that the assumption that without shims on your front axle must mean that your castor is 0 degrees is probably not accurate. So many factors can tilt that axle like ride height, front spring sag, worn shackles on front springs ect. With that said if you are happy with the way your car handles, how the steering returns to center and do not hear or see any tire scuff then I am with you Hugh, why worry about it 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EmTee Posted July 15 Share Posted July 15 I have one of these and it works great for checking camber, driveline angles, etc... https://www.amazon.com/Johnson-Level-Tool-1886-0000-Magnetic/dp/B00H7HVGES/ref=asc_df_B00H7HVGES?tag=bngsmtphsnus-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=80058307777683&hvnetw=s&hvqmt=e&hvbmt=be&hvdev=c&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=&hvtargid=pla-4583657835790606&psc=1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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