IFDPete Posted July 1 Share Posted July 1 I'm interested in pulling my rear wheels off of my 1921 model 46 to inspect and grease the rear wheel bearings. Does anyone know a posting on this forum that provides directions or instructions. My car was an original garage find and I have no idea how old the bearing grease is. Also, what tools will I need to have? Thanks in advance for your help and replies. Just rear wheels - I got the front wheels off without any problem. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Oregon Desert model 45 Posted July 1 Share Posted July 1 2 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IFDPete Posted July 1 Author Share Posted July 1 Perfect... Thanks so much. Before posting this thread I searched around online but somehow did not find that thread in my search. People on this forum are great help in keeping these early cars going. Really appreciate your assistance. If anyone has any other tips please post them. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crazyearlr Posted July 2 Share Posted July 2 Be careful. Many times the studs are pounded over. Removing them may damage the stud. They are hard to find replacements for. This is what you need to replace them with. (I'm not selling them) 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark Kikta Posted July 2 Share Posted July 2 IFDPete, I put together this posting a few years back for my 1922 Buick 45. Not sure if it's the same on your 1921 but likely very close. Check it out. 1922 Rear wheel bearing 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brian_Heil Posted July 2 Share Posted July 2 The large nut on the nose of the axle tube is a reverse thread on the left side of the car. 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark Kikta Posted July 2 Share Posted July 2 Also, if you need new star washers when you get it all apart, I had new ones made and still have a few left. Here are the measurements of mine. 4 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IFDPete Posted July 2 Author Share Posted July 2 Thanks Mark for the star washer offer. From the looks of your posts about your car, my 1921 and your 1922 are mechanically the same. If I need them I will contact you. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dibarlaw Posted July 2 Share Posted July 2 They are also the same for my 1925-45. Mark provided a set of washers for me too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IFDPete Posted July 3 Author Share Posted July 3 (edited) Is this tool on Ebay something I would need to pull rear wheels? Or is this for steering wheels? I am thinking that it is not needed but wanted to be sure. Anyone know what this is for? https://www.ebay.com/itm/295608347430?itmmeta=01J1WF7HB76W9SFF126Y4H90J6&hash=item44d3a16b26:g:NEEAAOSwAZRkLIDg&itmprp=enc%3AAQAJAAAA0Dja4qTJT9btZYZCWxwepW3XBdpVssfSxtnfcIepYLltmJVqUGN2IjTakj4mAJECRqfiNT9ZlmzdGKZ81SzvD86A54%2F7n2tAK%2B45y06a5qzTbQ0UT0XR4evde5HlJQo1FtPNJBJukZ3n5pBzahlQJyrjZTkXO3rpym3i4Pavmi4lS3cHKkBuvONzBdFLzSzVKnAr%2FEbylLyfc58P2zZa5T3NGuUDwiRIZD1s%2FTebneh4EQUSimEcmhrZ%2Fm%2FLASDkUX6eOWMm8cph9B%2BYRsIyEQc%3D|tkp%3ABk9SR9qVno-PZA Thanks - Pete Edited July 3 by IFDPete Photos added (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dibarlaw Posted July 3 Share Posted July 3 Pete: No need to use a puller. If at all possible leave the axle shaft and the hub together. On the full floating axle you remove the 6 acorn nuts holding the hub the hus and axle shaft should pull out as a unit. IF! there is no interfearence with the brake lining to the drums. You may have to back off brake adjustments and make sure the parking brake is fully dissengaged. My damaged right rear had a ridge worn in the drum so I had to use a puller on that side. The left side pulled out without an issue. My bearings which should be the same ones that you have. Mark Kikta bought new ones for his 1922 car. On my car they had been replaced but apparently the originals had seized and wore the bore in the hub. The previous "FIX IT UP" owner had installed the new bearings and poured solder around it to take up the play. I had to clean up all and use .006 shim stock to get a good snug fit. I also had to make a .010 flat ring shim because the bottom of the bore was also damaged. I do not believe your car with low mileage will have these issues. If the bearings are in good shape they can be washed and fresh grease applied. Get new seals and you should be good. The slotted screw plug on the outside of the hubs were ment to be removed. A grease fitting inserted and more grease pumped in. Intervals were stated as being every 1000 miles. Then the slotted screw reinserted. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IFDPete Posted July 3 Author Share Posted July 3 Thanks Larry - I am not planning on replacing the bearings if the originals look good. Just hoping that I can clean them and get new grease installed. We shall see. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hubert_25-25 Posted July 3 Share Posted July 3 When you get into the hub, I think you may find that the "grease port" is not very effective at getting fresh grease to the bearings. - I have seen front wheel seals blown out from over greasing. Then the grease moves down the inside of the drum and onto the outside and into the brakes. - I have also seen grease get there from over greasing the front brake pivot. So once the wheel bearing is exposed, look at whether you think the grease point in the hub is worth using. I have decided that it can do more harm than good. For instance - There have not been grease fittings on wheels for a long while. Even 60's cars, the process was to remove the wheel, remove the grease, and repack the bearing. For wheels at least, the train of thought was not to pump in more grease, but to pull apart, clean, and use new grease. Wheel bearings in the 60's were not repacked all that frequently. Maybe 10,000 to 30,000 miles? Modern synthetic wheel bearing grease is miles better than the old stuff. My advise is to repack the wheel bearings after disassemby and consider a repack after many miles. Hugh 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IFDPete Posted July 3 Author Share Posted July 3 (edited) Will the axle shaft just slide out of the rear differential carrier or do I need to open the differential cover and pull some c shaped lock washers from the shaft? Edited July 3 by IFDPete (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Oregon Desert model 45 Posted July 3 Share Posted July 3 Pete Just remove the 6 acorn nuts and the axle with driving hub will pull out. There are no locking washers inside the differential with the full floating axle. Kevin 3 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brian_Heil Posted July 3 Share Posted July 3 One of these needle grease gun fittings is a good way to actually get the grease into the rear double row rear bearing. (Unless you have updated to sealed versions) 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Oldtech Posted July 4 Share Posted July 4 These usually come apart without a fuss. one of the easiest axles to deal with. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brian_Heil Posted July 5 Share Posted July 5 And the bearing size is still widely used. Don’t buy it from and ‘old car bearing source’. $$$$$$ Buy it online for a fraction of the cost from a bearing house. Most have upgrade to the sealed version and never worry greasing it. 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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