Ckerch Posted March 9 Share Posted March 9 Putting my suspension and steering back together on my 64 and running into a roadblock. On the center link ends that connect to the pitman and Idler arm had some flat washer neoprene type material parts that I assume are used as seals. I have search everywhere and cannot seem to find replacements. I went to a local screw/bolt store and got rubber washers, but I don't think it will provide much of a seal due to the stiffness. What have others used? Carl Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ckerch Posted March 11 Author Share Posted March 11 I am surprised no one has done any steering repairs that includes the center/drag link. Is there a way to delete this post? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RivNut Posted March 11 Share Posted March 11 (edited) I’ve been thinking about your post. The reason that no one has replied to you is because you’re looking for a fictitious part. Some previous owner has tried to take the wear out of the center link by sticking a washer between the center link and the pitman arm/drag link. The only way to fix it is to replace the center link with a rebuilt one. Two ways. 1) send yours in to have it rebuilt, 2) exchange yours for one that’s been rebuilt - James @ www.bestoffercounts.com has them on an exchange basis. Edited March 11 by RivNut (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BulldogDriver Posted March 11 Share Posted March 11 (edited) What Ed said is true. Idler arms were rebuildable and I rebuilt mine. I believe Cars was the source for the kit. I believe that replacement units that ‘are not’ rebuildable are still available and probably from Cars. Center links are rebuildable if you can source the ball joints. I’ve never come across a post with a part number for these, here or anywhere else. My ball joints and upper control arms seem to still be in proper order but I did replace the boots on the ball joints using “universal” boots from one of the urethane manufacturers. You could do the same on the tie rod’s ball joints to the center link but as far as I know, there is no shim between the tie rods and link. Ray Edited March 11 by BulldogDriver (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ckerch Posted March 12 Author Share Posted March 12 I went back and reread my reply and did not mean to come across in a condescending way and thanks for the feedback. My current center link and Idler Arm is currently in good condition and doesn't need a rebuild yet. Ed, what confuses me is the pitman pictorial in the manual. It appears to have one, but manuals can be deceiving. So, if I understand it, it would be direct contact Pitman arm to center/drag link and Idler arm to center/drag link without anything between. This would create a metal-to-metal contact at the contact points. Are there anything applied to those contact points? Just trying to understand I reinstall this correctly. Thanks, Carl Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
arnulfo de l.a. Posted March 12 Share Posted March 12 Get some PEEK and make your own. I think you can get sheets of it in various thickness from McMASTER CARR Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RivNut Posted March 12 Share Posted March 12 That stud is tapered as well as the hole. I think the tapers prevent the two surfaces from contacting each other. I’m going to Illinois tomorrow and can look at the front end on m car. There is not a stitch of anything on that rebuilt front suspension that is OE. I’ll take a look at it as well as talk to the guy doing the restoration and see what I can figure out, 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1965rivgs Posted March 12 Share Posted March 12 As I recall there is a felt like washer there whose purpose is to attempt to reduce water infiltration into the ball/socket. Tom Mooney 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BulldogDriver Posted March 12 Share Posted March 12 (edited) The rebuild kit I put into mine has a bearing unit that the to pieces mate to. I believe that was what was originally there but can’t be absolutely sure as it was 4 years ago when done. Ray Edited March 12 by BulldogDriver (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1965rivgs Posted March 12 Share Posted March 12 The replacement idler arms with the bearing were marketed in the aftermarket as "heavy duty" replacements Tom Mooney 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ckerch Posted March 13 Author Share Posted March 13 20 hours ago, arnulfo de l.a. said: Get some PEEK and make your own. I think you can get sheets of it in various thickness from McMASTER CARR One of the old washer/seal (whatever it is called) is still in decent shape and is 1/8 inch thick. When I looked on McMaster Carr the smallest sheet at that thickness was 6X6 for $104....ouch! There are some Peek washers out there that I might look at it if shipping isn't crazy. Like Tom suggested, I going to try find a felt type washer or something close to that as another option. From what I can find, this part is only used on GEN 1 because I think they changed the center link ball joints ends. I believe in 1966, GM went with a rubber boot and zerk fitting like that used on the tie rods. That might be way I can't locate the replacement part Carl Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
arnulfo de l.a. Posted March 13 Share Posted March 13 16 hours ago, Ckerch said: One of the old washer/seal (whatever it is called) is still in decent shape and is 1/8 inch thick. When I looked on McMaster Carr the smallest sheet at that thickness was 6X6 for $104....ouch! There are some Peek washers out there that I might look at it if shipping isn't crazy. Like Tom suggested, I going to try find a felt type washer or something close to that as another option. From what I can find, this part is only used on GEN 1 because I think they changed the center link ball joints ends. I believe in 1966, GM went with a rubber boot and zerk fitting like that used on the tie rods. That might be way I can't locate the replacement part Carl Yea not cheap. Its amazing stuff, will last a lifetime. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
telriv Posted March 13 Share Posted March 13 (edited) To ALL with 1st. gens. Remove the center link WITHOUT destroying it. Once you have it removed turn the stud protruding 1/2 turn. This will now put the ball stud on a mostly unused/less used portion of the ball stud. Carefully drill a hole on the side of the draglink/centerlink & install a grease fitting. You are now using a less worn part of the ball stud which MAY save you some $$$. I have done it for some who didn't want to spend the $$$ & were happy with the results. I wouldn't say it's a lasting repair as it will just tighten it up better. Just my thoughts. Tom T. Edited March 13 by telriv (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EmTee Posted March 14 Share Posted March 14 15 hours ago, telriv said: Once you have it removed turn the stud protruding 1/2 turn. Is it really 1/2, or did you mean to say 1/4 turn? 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
telriv Posted March 14 Share Posted March 14 You are correct. Thanks for catching that. My bad. Tom T. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ckerch Posted March 14 Author Share Posted March 14 22 hours ago, telriv said: To ALL with 1st. gens. Remove the center link WITHOUT destroying it. Once you have it removed turn the stud protruding 1/2 turn. This will now put the ball stud on a mostly unused/less used portion of the ball stud. Carefully drill a hole on the side of the draglink/centerlink & install a grease fitting. You are now using a less worn part of the ball stud which MAY save you some $$$. I have done it for some who didn't want to spend the $$$ & were happy with the results. I wouldn't say it's a lasting repair as it will just tighten it up better. Just my thoughts. Tom T. That's a great idea and did not think I would have enough sidewall room for a drill bit. Luckly it is already removed from car. Would you center the hole or bias it toward the bottom of the centerlink? Carl Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
telriv Posted March 15 Share Posted March 15 Carl. I usually bias the grease fitting towards the bottom. Not quite center. All you are trying to do is get as much grease on the center of the ball as possible. Try not to drill in one step. Try to keep the chips from entering the cavity of the joint so there are no or very little drilling chips in the link/ball stud area as possible. Tom T. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now