MercMontMars Posted February 2 Share Posted February 2 Hi there, I’ve been tinkering with my 1939 Chrysler Windsor for a while now whenever I have the time but haven’t gotten to start it yet. When the starter was in I tried firing it up with good spark and fuel but all I got was a crank/ no start and a couple huge backfires out of the carburetor. I don’t know why it took me so long to think of doing this but I just did a compression check and almost all cylinders are no compression. The strongest one was no.1 (counting from the water pump back) giving 30 psi on my gauge. 5-6 gave a tiny bit, just enough to move the gauge a little. I’m not surprised as this car has been sitting for at least 20+ years not driven. I’m going to be pulling the cylinder head then the intake and exhaust manifold to clean it out and see what’s inside and to get easier access to the valve inspection cover. Just looking for some advice and pointers as I go along. I have a shop manual that provides the head bolt patterns and torque specs thankfully. Thanks for any help! 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ben Bruce aka First Born Posted February 2 Share Posted February 2 Better late than never! Good luck. Ben 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rusty_OToole Posted February 2 Share Posted February 2 Flatheads often get stuck valves when they sit around. Sometimes you only have to oil the stem and give them a tap, other times it's more complicated. Here is a video you may find helpful or at least amusing. Don't let the casual approach fool you, this guy knows what he is doing. He just doesn't like to spend money. He has many videos on reviving various flathead Chrysler products and others if you search cold war motors on youtube. 5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DFeeney Posted February 3 Share Posted February 3 Be careful not to damage the old gasket when removing the head as you might need to use it one more time. With the Head off you can crank the engine over and see if the valves go up and down with full motion. As mentioned ,the valve stems hang up in the guides. Once they are all working I would put a lot of oil on the top of the piston, top rings. The oil will temporary seal the rings. I would reassemble the head with the same gasket and redo the compression test. If it is still low or uneven a valve job will be in order. You and replace the rings and do a valve job for not much money if you do the work. 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rusty_OToole Posted February 3 Share Posted February 3 (edited) An old trick is to paint the head gasket with aluminum paint to help sealing. Another thing we used to do is soak it in hot water overnight. But usually if you put the gasket back the way it came off it will work, as long as it is not blown or damaged. Do not use silicone or gasket shellac. Edited February 3 by Rusty_OToole (see edit history) 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
marcapra Posted February 3 Share Posted February 3 (edited) Also you should know that you can gain access to the valve guides without taking the head off. You have to remove the right side wheel. Then unbolt an access panel on the inner fender. Then you can take the valve covers off so you can see what the valves are doing. Good luck with your '39! Edited February 4 by marcapra (see edit history) 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MercMontMars Posted February 3 Author Share Posted February 3 (edited) I’ll definitely be careful with the head gasket, I’ll use it to test compression after freeing everything up but I’m ordering this kit that has a head gasket and other gaskets. Will definitely be helpful and I don’t have to worry about breaking something irreplaceable. https://www.partsgeek.com/cjfnzqt-chrysler-royal-engine-gasket-set.html?utm_source=google&utm_medium=ff&utm_content=TS&utm_campaign=PartsGeek+Google+Base&utm_term=1937-1942%2C+1950+Chrysler+Royal+Engine+Gasket+Set+Victor+Reinz+37-42%2C+50+Chrysler+Engine+Gasket+Set+1938&gad_source=1&cid=18313611776&gclid=Cj0KCQiAwvKtBhDrARIsAJj-kTgGNjY3NUq-f8lxca9iKkFAZZwcFgx3wRFdy-ANY4ih71iabmVt9-gaApueEALw_wcB Edited February 3 by MercMontMars (see edit history) 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hchris Posted February 3 Share Posted February 3 (edited) Echoing marcapra, before disturbing the head I would be going in through the inner guard access panel, Get the side cover off and watch the valves as you hand turn it over, you might be able to get some free up stuff blasting in around the valve stems. Edited February 3 by hchris Word change (see edit history) 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
arcticbuicks Posted February 3 Share Posted February 3 (edited) I got a 1929 Nash in very nice condition stored inside last 50 plus years......I checked over everything and rebuilt fuel system etc.......once ready to run and try.......i found several stuck valves.....one very stuck once forced up in open position.......i took the side block tin covers off and started to work at it......it was not a one hour job .....and as to not damage anything took time over a week ......I sprayed oil ......used air blow gun to blow oil up valve guide------*this really works to get the oil or penetrating fluid to reach the stuck area up in the valve guide* as well as a good amount of oil in the cylinder and blow gun in cylinder to blow oil all over is sure to get some running down the valve guide......i would really recommend just trying this alone first .......then tapped with wood dowel on the valves through side cover area......one i had to grab with thin vise grips and wiggle......i got all but one free......the last one i could not get to move......since it was up and stuck .....there was some space between valve tappet and valve......so i removed the valve spring and was just enough room to get the valve spring and keeper out........i could then work at it and grab valve stem......but staying below where it traveled in the guide as not score it......and it came free.......i put the valve spring back on and used air hose from compressor on compression tester fitting in spark plug hole..... to hold valve closed to hold valve down to compress valve spring and get the keeper on. on another engine .....simply took side cover off and after soaking valve guides......was able to get two flat screwdrivers in between coils of valve spring .....and pry down[nothing excessive as not to damage] ....and put more force on one screw driver than the other to get any kind of movement with valve ......and snap down the valve came......another valve was a little more stubborn coming down a little at a time .........then hand rotate engine over with spark plugs out while watching each valve go up.....and stop before the freed stuck valves went up all the way.........then back up to see if any were starting to stick again. one more little trick i tried and it worked......when the valve is stuck ....and you get it soaked with oil and penetrating fluid .....is that it needs a little nudge or bump to get it to come free.....so i put a old feeler gauge between bottom of valve stem and lifter/valve tappet....and hand cranked engine over giving the valve a little tiny bit more lift to get it moving.....you would not use anything thick or forceful cranking of engine as the valve face could hit the cylinder head........but there is certainly a few feeler gauge thicknesses of clearance above valve face to cylinder head. Edited February 3 by arcticbuicks (see edit history) 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MercMontMars Posted February 13 Author Share Posted February 13 Well some good news.. and some even better news. Pulled the head today and everything exceeded my expectations. I found 3-4 stuck valves which explains why I couldn’t start the motor. Got all but 1 valve completely free. Besides that, the cylinder walls look excellent and I don’t see any cracks or reasons for concern. Hopefully once they’re all free I can start her up for the first time in many years. 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Larry Schramm Posted February 13 Share Posted February 13 (edited) Helps? Edited February 13 by Larry Schramm (see edit history) 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MercMontMars Posted February 13 Author Share Posted February 13 @Larry Schramm Much better! have no idea why it likes to flip images like that on me. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MercMontMars Posted February 13 Author Share Posted February 13 @arcticbuicks Very helpful, thank you. What I’ve done so far is douse them in penetrating oil and motor oil, that freed up two of them but one is really persistent. I got it free enough to snap back down with the spring but when it comes back up it likes to stay there. Gonna take the inspection plates off tomorrow or so and see what’s going on down below. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MercMontMars Posted February 13 Author Share Posted February 13 @Rusty_OToole Thanks, I’ll definitely try that aluminum paint trick. Old head gasket seems to be in great shape, at least good enough to reuse for testing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Larry Schramm Posted February 13 Share Posted February 13 (edited) 5 minutes ago, MercMontMars said: @Rusty_OToole Thanks, I’ll definitely try that aluminum paint trick. Old head gasket seems to be in great shape, at least good enough to reuse for testing. Unless it is a shadow, it looks like it is leaking between 4&5. Maybe between 2&3 also. Edited February 13 by Larry Schramm (see edit history) 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MercMontMars Posted February 13 Author Share Posted February 13 (edited) @Larry Schramm You might be right, I’ll take a closer look at that next time I work on it. Luckily a new gasket kit is in the mail so if it’s bad no big deal. Edited February 13 by MercMontMars (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
R Walling Posted February 13 Share Posted February 13 (edited) I had the same sticking on my Stright 8. I removed the head and applied penetrating oil several times. I wire brushed the valves and the seats while the valve was open, and tapped on the center of the valve heads and continued cranking it over while spraying penetrating oil on the valve shafts. Finally, they all freed up. Edited February 13 by R Walling (see edit history) 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Larry Schramm Posted February 13 Share Posted February 13 11 hours ago, MercMontMars said: @Larry Schramm You might be right, I’ll take a closer look at that next time I work on it. Luckily a new gasket kit is in the mail so if it’s bad no big deal. If it is leaking, you need to check the head for flatness. If not perfect, you might need to have the head resurfaced. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DFeeney Posted February 13 Share Posted February 13 Enjoyment comes from fixing problems yourself. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MercMontMars Posted February 13 Author Share Posted February 13 @DFeeney Wholeheartedly agree, I bought this car with the self-agreement that I will do it all myself. One day I can step back from it and say “I did that.” Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MercMontMars Posted February 13 Author Share Posted February 13 @R Walling Nice, did it start right up for you after freeing up the valves? If you still have it, how’s it running? After finishing this motor 100% I definitely want a mopar inline-8 to tinker with. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DFeeney Posted February 13 Share Posted February 13 As time goes by our "Skill Set" increases and makes future projects "More Do Able. " \ 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
R Walling Posted February 14 Share Posted February 14 4 hours ago, MercMontMars said: @R Walling Nice, did it start right up for you after freeing up the valves? If you still have it, how’s it running? After finishing this motor 100% I definitely want a mopar inline-8 to tinker with. After getting the valves unstuck, I installed a new gasket and new sparkplug wires. It started right up. it had only about 31,000 miles on it. Of course, I had to clean the tank and fuel lines first. I noticed that the float had a small crack in it, so I put a small dab of solder on it and presto! runs perfect! It is amazing that it starts, turning as slow as it turns, compared to modern cars. It idles so quiet that at stop lights, I think that it has stalled. I actually hit the starter button a few times. I did install an electric fuel pump in order to get the fuel pressure up quickly in order to make it start without cranking it so long. I only use it for about 10 seconds before starting, then I shut it off. (Pic with original paint and interior) 10 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MercMontMars Posted February 15 Author Share Posted February 15 @R Walling Gorgeous! Looks like she was loved in a past life, I love to see survivors like that. One of my favorite mopar front ends. I always thought that was crazy too, even compared to my 52 Pontiac straight-8 the starters are SLOW. I don’t know how they do it. Curious to see how many miles my odometer says, I haven’t been able to read it because something inside collapsed and is blocking it, but I’m gonna guess no more than 50,000. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
R Walling Posted February 15 Share Posted February 15 29 minutes ago, MercMontMars said: @R Walling Gorgeous! Looks like she was loved in a past life, The car had seat covers installed on the first day when the owner bought it. It was always garaged, even in storage. I removed the seat covers after I cleaned it up and got it running. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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