neil morse Posted March 18 Share Posted March 18 Nice work! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robuick46 Posted March 27 Author Share Posted March 27 Thank you for your appreciation, it means a lot to me. I follow your posts and see that you do much more difficult work than I do. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robuick46 Posted March 27 Author Share Posted March 27 In the meantime, I de-rusted the remaining parts, painted them and reassembled them. I am really impressed with the result, the driver’s side door lock works again very easily. On occasion, I will revise all the door locks, but the important problems first. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robuick46 Posted March 27 Author Share Posted March 27 (edited) Edited March 27 by Robuick46 (see edit history) 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robuick46 Posted March 27 Author Share Posted March 27 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robuick46 Posted March 27 Author Share Posted March 27 ...everything as it should be. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robuick46 Posted March 27 Author Share Posted March 27 (edited) Yesterday I removed the retrofitted car radio and found out that the wiring is a nightmare. Ok, another job for later. The oil pressure gauge does not work, because no pressure pipe is connected to the engine. Can anyone tell me what diameter the connection of the oil pressure gauge has? I found this article on E-Bay with a 5/16" - 24 UNF https://www.ebay.de/itm/386682073254?chn=ps&_ul=DE&_trkparms=ispr%3D1&amdata=enc%3A1RugcGKiUTi60gE1AOIlYzQ95&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=707-134425-41852-0&mkcid=2&mkscid=101&itemid=386682073254&targetid=1685205643815&device=c&mktype=pla&googleloc=9042103&poi=&campaignid=17731230207&mkgroupid=139734018478&rlsatarget=pla-1685205643815&abcId=9301017&merchantid=5296269524&gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAjwh4-wBhB3EiwAeJsppC7rMIssCyB5E7Nua0rc8a5CqnlwvQh0XaGX-5_ysgvNAyLAFNPZXRoCY2gQAvD_BwE or that connection kit with 1/8" NPT https://www.asp-usshop.com/motor-teile-engine-parts/oelkreislauf-oiling-system-parts/anschlusskit-oeldruck-mechanisch-1-8-npt-platik::7510.html#horizontalTab1 I need your help. Edited March 27 by Robuick46 (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robuick46 Posted April 7 Author Share Posted April 7 (edited) I tried to fix my Borg watch today. After I cleaned the complete clockwork and put some thin oil on it, it ran again. The electric winding was difficult, because the arm and the spring were adjusted, but after a few hours of work it switched again. When the clock suddenly stopped, I discovered that the big middle gear is defective. In an earlier repair attempt of a previous owner, several teeth were broken off and the holder of the spring was incorrectly mounted. At Ebay US a clockwork is currently being sold, but I don’t know if the seller also ships to Germany. (I hope he does) https://www.ebay.com/itm/186219678367 Edited April 7 by Robuick46 (see edit history) 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robuick46 Posted April 7 Author Share Posted April 7 ...or one of you would be willing to buy the clockwork for me on Ebay and I transfer the price and shipping to him. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
neil morse Posted April 8 Share Posted April 8 I sent you a PM. I would be happy to buy the clock on Ebay and ship it to you in Germany. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rodneybeauchamp Posted April 10 Share Posted April 10 On 4/8/2024 at 5:08 AM, Robuick46 said: I tried to fix my Borg watch today. After I cleaned the complete clockwork and put some thin oil on it, it ran again. The electric winding was difficult, because the arm and the spring were adjusted, but after a few hours of work it switched again. When the clock suddenly stopped, I discovered that the big middle gear is defective. In an earlier repair attempt of a previous owner, several teeth were broken off and the holder of the spring was incorrectly mounted. At Ebay US a clockwork is currently being sold, but I don’t know if the seller also ships to Germany. (I hope he does) https://www.ebay.com/itm/186219678367 You may be able to obtain a US Postal address to assist getting your parts shipped overseas. I have used a company call Shipito with great success if a supplier won’t post overseas or wants to charge exorbitant postage rates. You just quote your unique US address and it gets sent to them. They then resend it to you address in Germany. The fee is very small. Last time I used them was when the supplier wanted US$99.00 to ship a remote key fob (transponder) to Australia but cost me less than half sending it to Shipito, who then sent it to me. Good work on your Buick too! Rodney 😀😀😀😀😀😀😀 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robuick46 Posted April 22 Author Share Posted April 22 (edited) I bought another Borg clock here in Germany from a 1946/47 Ford (thanks to Neil for the identification) with the same clockwork. Edited April 22 by Robuick46 (see edit history) 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robuick46 Posted April 22 Author Share Posted April 22 (edited) With the support of a friend, I disassembled the watch into its individual parts... ...and removed the defective minute gear. A small gear has to be removed (red circle), and a watchmaker has to help me, so maybe I’ll get the disassembled gears tonight. Edited April 22 by Robuick46 (see edit history) 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robuick46 Posted April 22 Author Share Posted April 22 (edited) ... here is the parts dispenser. When I have all the parts back, we want to make a working watch from 2 watches. According to the motto - combine two into one. Edited April 22 by Robuick46 (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robuick46 Posted April 22 Author Share Posted April 22 (edited) In the meantime, we (me and my 16 year old son) have removed the front seat. The necessary works / defects: -the seat adjustment clamps -the frame of the seat is rusted -the frame of the seat cushions and the springs are rusted -the seat cover has loosened at the edges -the border of the seat to the seat cushions has become detached -loose contact of courtesy lights -correction of wiring (the instrument light switch turns the courtesy lights on) Edited April 22 by Robuick46 (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robuick46 Posted April 22 Author Share Posted April 22 (edited) Business as usual - wire brush, parts cleaned with brake cleaner, rust converter primer, painting in black matt, lubricated sliding surfaces and the mechanics lubricated with spray grease or graphite paste. ...the one cent piece fits perfectly into the hole of the shaft to protect it from color. ...glued the damping mat again. Edited April 22 by Robuick46 (see edit history) 5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robuick46 Posted May 6 Author Share Posted May 6 My son Noel painted the front seat shell with rust converter paint. Then we glued the upholstery fabric to the edges again and attached all other parts of the seat or stapled it. The lower fabric dissolves after all these years, but for now it is enough to stick it. Feeling good to work with my son on the buick. 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robuick46 Posted May 6 Author Share Posted May 6 (edited) Meanwhile, I worked on all the metal parts and springs of the upholstery using a brass wire brush, a sponge and rust converter primer. I painted the lower front strip, which was forgotten when covering the upholstery. I had the idea to cover it with wood, but it has to wait. ...and I found this on the underside of the seat, is it still original from the factory? Does anyone know that? And what does the name mean? Edited May 6 by Robuick46 (see edit history) 6 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robuick46 Posted May 6 Author Share Posted May 6 (edited) After we had reinstalled the seat, I isolated the lamp housings, replaced the light bulbs, soldered the defective contacts, rewired the cables and connected them correctly on the door switches. I am very satisfied with the result. ...the same work has to be done on the rear seats. Edited May 6 by Robuick46 (see edit history) 7 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robuick46 Posted May 12 Author Share Posted May 12 (edited) Here a few before / after pictures of the current wiring under the dashboard. I have removed the later installed radio. During the restoration, the original cables were removed and renewed, but not everything was connected according to the circuit diagrams. An additional fuse box has also been added, but unfortunately without a cover. It looks like spiders have woven all the cables under the dashboard (called the cable spiders ) . I ordered some brass terminal blocks and made an insulated holder with my router. I mounted the terminal block above the fuse box and switched the terminal block via the instrument light switch. The instrument lights were then connected to the terminal block (unfortunately I do not have a photo yet). It looks much neater now and there is no more cable knot. Edited May 12 by Robuick46 (see edit history) 5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shootey Posted May 12 Share Posted May 12 What are the two new guages and were they there when you bought the car or did you add them? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robuick46 Posted May 15 Author Share Posted May 15 (edited) On 5/12/2024 at 5:44 PM, Shootey said: What are the two new guages and were they there when you bought the car or did you add them? The gauges were already installed when I bought the Buick. The left gauge is water temperature, the right gauge is oil temperature, but the oil temperature just doesn’t work. I have to look for the mistake. The gauges were mounted on the retrofitted radio. Edited May 15 by Robuick46 (see edit history) 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sebastienbuick Posted May 15 Share Posted May 15 Good job ! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robuick46 Posted May 15 Author Share Posted May 15 I probably have a bigger problem with my engine. I’ve had more and more carburetor misfires lately. By adjusting the ignition and the carburetor it got better, but I never quite got rid of the misfires. I had the idea to rebuild the carburetor with Gary W’s step by step instructions for the Carter 608s, because also a top seal was leaking. I checked and adjusted the spark plugs together with my son Noel. We measured the compression of each cylinder and my 4th cylinder is dead. I read somewhere that the cylinder pressure should have 110lbs.(is that the same value in psi?) My measurements: Cylinder 1 - 74 psi Cylinder 2 - 80 psi Cylinder 3 - 90 psi Cylinder 4 - 0 psi Cylinder 5 - 80 psi Cylinder 6 - 80 psi Cylinder 7 - 75 psi Cylinder 8 - 70 psi Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robuick46 Posted May 15 Author Share Posted May 15 (edited) We checked the valve latch of the cylinders on the rocker arms again. The latch on cylinder 4 is ok, the rocker arms are working. We still need to perform a pressure drop test on cylinder 4 to find out if the valves are closing and sealing properly or if the piston rings are damaged. I already have the gauge in my garage, maybe I have to do the troubleshooting on the weekend. Edited May 15 by Robuick46 (see edit history) 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnD1956 Posted May 20 Share Posted May 20 I think that is the same in psi. I would recommend a boroscope camera to be used through the spark plug hole. Mainly to check the condition on the block walls in the cylinder. Just to prevent causing any additional damage if something is scoring the walls. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robuick46 Posted May 20 Author Share Posted May 20 I spent time in my garage last night to do the pressure drop measurement. All cylinders are with minimal pressure loss, the highest loss is only 4-5%. At cylinder 4 (compression 0) I had minimal loss. I hear that every cylinder blows air into the crankcase (sometimes more sometimes less). The valves all seem to be tight. I used a screwdriver to push the valves and the air noise changed. The air noises then come from the carburetor or from the exhaust manifold. My measurements: (compression / pressure-resistant) Cylinder 1 - 74 psi / 100% Cylinder 2 - 80 psi / 96% Cylinder 3 - 90 psi / 98% Cylinder 4 - 0 psi / 100% Cylinder 5 - 80 psi / 99% Cylinder 6 - 80 psi / 95% Cylinder 7 - 75 psi / 100% Cylinder 8 - 70 psi / 98% I am surprised that cylinder 4 holds 100% of the pressure but has 0 compression. Can it be that cylinder 4 does not suck in fuel and thus has no compression compared to the other cylinders? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robuick46 Posted May 20 Author Share Posted May 20 1 hour ago, JohnD1956 said: I think that is the same in psi. I would recommend a boroscope camera to be used through the spark plug hole. Mainly to check the condition on the block walls in the cylinder. Just to prevent causing any additional damage if something is scoring the walls. I need to borrow someone’s camera, but you’re right, this is the next step I have to take. I am afraid that I will have to disassemble the engine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnD1956 Posted May 20 Share Posted May 20 5 hours ago, Robuick46 said: I need to borrow someone’s camera, but you’re right, this is the next step I have to take. I am afraid that I will have to disassemble the engine. I can empathize with you over that issue. But it does sound like there are serious issues which cannot be fixed any other way. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andrew_Latvia Posted May 21 Share Posted May 21 (edited) Are the valves in 4th cylinder really opening? Because the only situation I can think of, when compression is 0, but there's no pressure leak, is when intake valve is not opening for some reason?? Maybe your pressure leak tester is not OK and is giving false readings? In your situation I would pour some small amount of the engine oil in 4th cylinder and then re-check the compression pressure. But be careful not to pour too much oil in cylinder - this can cause hydrolock. If it starts to show more than a 0, then most likely it's a piston/rings related issue. Edited May 21 by Andrew_Latvia (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EmTee Posted May 21 Share Posted May 21 To diagnose a damaged piston you might try pouring oil into the #4 spark plug hole. Bring #4 to TDC and slowly add engine oil until it starts dribbling out of the spark plug hole (note the amount of oil added). Wait a minute and then try to add more oil. If it immediately runs out of the hole, wait longer and try again. If it can hold oil for at least a couple of minutes, that would suggest there's no hole in the piston and damage to the ring land and/or cylinder wall should be proportional to how long the cylinder holds oil. Try this on one of the good cylinders to determine a baseline value for comparison. Needless to say, if you're unable to fill the cylinder, or the oil drains into the crankcase quickly, there's major damage and the head needs to come off... 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robuick46 Posted June 18 Author Share Posted June 18 (edited) While I can’t work on the engine due to my health, I thought that I could rebuild the carburetor. I ordered a rebuild kit from the USA. By chance I came across a NOS set in Belgium and ordered it immediately. It does not include the complete spare parts, but the more you have at hand the better you can repair the carburetor. I only post a small selection of photos, as there is already a better and complete guide from Gary. All you need... (including Gary’s step by step instructions - thanks again to Gary) Edited June 18 by Robuick46 (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robuick46 Posted June 18 Author Share Posted June 18 (edited) ...a few photos of the current state. Edited June 18 by Robuick46 (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robuick46 Posted June 18 Author Share Posted June 18 (edited) Disassemble the Air Horn. Edited June 18 by Robuick46 (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robuick46 Posted June 18 Author Share Posted June 18 (edited) ... Bowl Cover Edited June 18 by Robuick46 (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robuick46 Posted June 18 Author Share Posted June 18 (edited) ...the big 4. Edited June 18 by Robuick46 (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robuick46 Posted June 18 Author Share Posted June 18 Someone has already worked on this carburetor, two parts are missing. - pump discharge passage plug - pump strainer Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robuick46 Posted June 18 Author Share Posted June 18 (edited) ... pump discharge check plug, pump check needle and pump jet (right photo). Edited June 18 by Robuick46 (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robuick46 Posted June 18 Author Share Posted June 18 ... metering rod and countershaft assembly Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robuick46 Posted June 18 Author Share Posted June 18 Looks like someone shoveled sand with it... ...another part is missing, the vacumeter piston spring. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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