exhaust nut ON flange stud

[RivNut]

If you put them on with anti-seize, you can just use bolts rather than studs?

[RivNut]

On 1/29/2024 at 5:23 PM, RivNut said:

From what I can gather, the manifold studs for a Buick are 1/4-20 on the manifold end and 1/4-28 on the nut side. 

Correction: 1/2-20 and 1/2-28.

[cquisuila]

4 minutes ago, RivNut said:

If you put them on with anti-seize, you can just use bolts rather than studs?

yes bolts in 1/2 13

[cquisuila]

5 minutes ago, RivNut said:

Correction: 1/2-20 and 1/2-28.

this is different of GUNGEEY information :  Double Ended Stud - 1/2-13  and 1/2-20

[RivNut]

24 minutes ago, cquisuila said:

this is different of GUNGEEY information :  Double Ended Stud - 1/2-13  and 1/2-20

I’ll have to check and get back to you.

[gungeey]

11 minutes ago, cquisuila said:

this is different of GUNGEEY information :  Double Ended Stud - 1/2-13  and 1/2-20

This is correct. 

 

This nonsense has been going on for two weeks now?

 

There is high likelihood if you take the suggestion and use bolts on your exhaust manifold they will be welded in place from the heat. You will then be shit out of luck. Did you even get the old studs out yet? 

 

It befuddles me how someone in Europe can be doing mechanical rehab work on a 60's Buick and not have a American tap and die set to remedy basic repair needs, including making simple fasteners etc

 

What really leaves me scratching my head is your asking to have the studs and bolts tossed in an envelope and sent to you in France by me, yet you won't buy them from Tom T because shipping is cost prohibitive?

 

God helps those who help themselves my friend

[Frank DuVal]

I think it is just translation issues between you guys. Maybe Google translate not working for hardware.

[cquisuila]

21 hours ago, gungeey said:

This is correct. 

 

This nonsense has been going on for two weeks now?

 

There is high likelihood if you take the suggestion and use bolts on your exhaust manifold they will be welded in place from the heat. You will then be shit out of luck. Did you even get the old studs out yet? 

 

It befuddles me how someone in Europe can be doing mechanical rehab work on a 60's Buick and not have a American tap and die set to remedy basic repair needs, including making simple fasteners etc

 

What really leaves me scratching my head is your asking to have the studs and bolts tossed in an envelope and sent to you in France by me, yet you won't buy them from Tom T because shipping is cost prohibitive?

 

God helps those who help themselves my friend

cool, guy !!🙂🤘

 

i'm working on cars since a long time and repair very well (mecanic, electric, upholstery...)

>for "basic repair needs, including making simple fasteners etc" i have.....

>for "prohibitive cost" buy france products and you will understand perhaps

and i don't even speak of UPS who is scandalous

 

you should be happy that an european is working on an american, no ?

 

21 hours ago, RivNut said:

I’ll have to check and get back to you.

you are very cool , guy !

 

Edited February 2 by cquisuila (see edit history)

[NTX5467]

Ir appears that some are more helpful than others?

 

NO bolts on exhaust system outlets, just studs, period.  Thread pitches are different on the noted Buick items, but other manufacturers did otherwise, even within General Motors.  And I could muddy the waters and mention the different styles of "prevailing torque" studs and nuts Chevrolet used in the 1990s, rather than use lock washers.

 

Fastenal might be a noted supplier, but their "selling quantities" usually are in multiples of 10 (100?) rather than like going into a hardware store to by a single fastener (nut, bolt, or stud).  I somewhat suspect that if a local auto supply has access to metric sizes, they might also be able to order SAE sizes from their supplier, OR refer you to somebody who has them in stock?  OR you can at least to travel to purchase in person?

 

Others are working on American cars in Europe.  Check out the www.bbtr.de website to see some excellent restorations and such.  Getting into a network of American car owners in Europe can be an asset, I suspect!  Seems like there is a good-sized Buick group in Germany, too?  I suspect that in many cases, others might need similar fastener items in SAE thread specs, which are size-specific rather than car-brand-specific.

 

I understand the desire to connect with Riviera owners, BUT in some mechanical issues as this, which are more "Buick" than "Riviera-specific", posing questions in the normal Buick Club Forums might be of benefit, too.  Have more potential information sources is better than fewer.  Possibly even start a tread in there about sourcing fasteners from European sources?

 

Respectfully,

NTX5467

[cquisuila]

42 minutes ago, NTX5467 said:

Possibly even start a tread in there about sourcing fasteners from European sources?

In  France the difficulties are real to find certain things according to US standards

> having bolts or nuts is easy (i made this job) but specific studs are harder or even impossible

 

The goal for me is to respect the restoration of the car identically or as close as possible to its origin.

 

Initially, i had just asked the type of stud ON RIVIERA and it drifted on metric system....etc

 

I am an individual and in France restoring a classic car is difficult

craftsmanship is quite rare no longer here

scams are common and changing a car's entire engine for an unfortunate gasket is common here🤑

 

And exchanging other visions in the world is interesting in my opinion !😉

 

[Bloo]

Ok, lets start over. I've been working on cars about like this since I was 11 or 12 years old, have changed more manifold studs than I can count, and even I can't follow this thread anymore. For those of you who have these parts (studs) in front of you, or a whole Buick of the correct type, PLEASE CLARIFY. Thank you.

 

1) These are 1/2" diameter studs, correct? If not, what is the diameter?

 

2) These are coarse thread on one end and fine on the other, like most American cars of the period, correct? If not, how are they threaded?

 

3) Taking that further, common American studs are UNF/UNC. Assuming 1/2" inch is correct (is it?), that is 1/2-13 and 1/2-20, but UNEF/UNF 1/2-20 and 1/2-28 has also been posted in this thread. Which is it? One of these two? Something else? Please clarify.

 

4) Is it correct that the coarse threads engage the manifold, not the nut?

 

5) I believe it has been established that there are 2 long studs and 2 short studs.  Is that correct?  What are their lengths? Or, perhaps more importantly, how much will be left sticking out after the coarse(?) end is threaded into the manifold?

 

6) Are the Dorman part numbers posted earlier in the thread the correct parts? If so, please repeat them.

 

Two final thoughts. Firstly, please do not confuse anything from UK or commonwealth countries. The standards are completely different. Secondly, brass nuts are not original equipment, and are used to prevent seizing. They are a good idea, but could strip if tightened too much. The thick brass nuts shown earlier in the thread are desirable when using brass.

 

Thank you everyone. Let's find cquisuila the correct parts.

 

 

[RivNut]

I’ll take the blame for incorrectly posting the 1/2-28 thread.  My bad.  Correct is 1/2-20 and 1/2-13.  
 

 

1/2-13 into the manifold, 1/2-20 for the nut. 
 

Two long and two short are needed. Two long studs to accommodate the extra space required for the heat riser (if the heat riser is a separate piece,) some manifolds have built in heat risers. 
 

No idea about Dorman part numbers.

 

The information and pictures that I posted are relevant for a nailhead, I don’t know if the same applies to the 43/455 big block.

[cquisuila]

Long for exhaust valve

Ref in DORMAN 675-031

1/2 13   3/4 INCH

1/2 20   1 1/16 INCH

 

court

Ref in DORMAN 675-109