General question--refinishing of cast iron and stamped steel parts

[Littlestown Mike]

I have disassembled the suspension and steering components from my Falcon.  Most of them are suitable to be reused.  I want the appearance to be as correct as possible.  I see spray paints for cast iron and stamped steel.  Does anyone know how permanent those paints might be? The cans do not mention priming.  Should i use a primer? Is there a clearcoat thart will go over the cleaned parts that will maintain that original appearance?  2K or is there a rattle can that would work?

Some parts should be painted with satin black, but a lot of parts were not painted or finished.  What are my alternatives?

Of course, as fast as surface rust appeared on new cars in the 1960s, I guess I "could" argue that "the rust is how it would have been delivered to the original pirchaser and is therefore 'correct'"  I don't want to be that guy.

[8E45E]

Powdercoating is ideal for suspension and steering linkage components.

 

Craig

 

 

[Tom Boehm]

https://www.kbs-coatings.com/diamondfinish-clear.html

 

I always assumed the cast iron color spray cans are the same durablility as Krylon and Rustoleum. I use clear Rustoleum spray cans on chassis parts that were originally bare metal. I think the KBS Diamond coat that I linked to is more durable than clear Rustoleum. It is one part moisture cured urethane. It is a clear version of POR-15. 

[Littlestown Mike]

11 hours ago, Tom Boehm said:

https://www.kbs-coatings.com/diamondfinish-clear.html

 

I always assumed the cast iron color spray cans are the same durablility as Krylon and Rustoleum. I use clear Rustoleum spray cans on chassis parts that were originally bare metal. I think the KBS Diamond coat that I linked to is more durable than clear Rustoleum. It is one part moisture cured urethane. It is a clear version of POR-15. 

What has been your experience with the durability of the Rustoleum clear?

[TAKerry]

I used the simulated metal paints on my 77 trans am. They have a cast iron colour which is a bit more grey, they have an aluminum colour which is fairly bright and they have a bare steel colour that is basically just silver. All worked fine and look ok. But they do not look exactly like what finish they are replicating. On my current resto of a 79 ta there is quite of bit of bare metal on the undercarriage. I took the existing rust and grime off and brought the parts back to their original finish. On this one I used a product called 'Shark Hide' which comes in an aerosol spray can. Its a clear that leaves a dull finish. Does not look like there is anything at all once applied. Honestly I have not crawled under the car within the last many months to see how the finishes are holding up. But stuff I had on the bench still looks good.

[Tom Boehm]

Like the metal color, I make the assumption that the clear rustoleum is the same durability as colored rustoleum in a spray can. The clear is cheap and easily available at Home Depot. It dries fast and you can put multiple coats on. I think it held up OK. No rust. I used it on some suspension parts about a year ago. That car doesn't get driven in bad weather. I also used it on a bare cast iron master cylinder and brake caliper. Small brake fluid leaks caused it to rust. The rustoleum clear comes in gloss and satin. Satin looks more like bare metal. 

 

I used the KB Diamond coat as the final coat on a basketball backboard about 7 years ago. Rust is just now starting to show. That was out in the weather 24/7/365. The Diamond coat might stand up to brake fluid better. 

Edited October 17, 2023 by Tom Boehm (see edit history)

[R Walling]

  I prefer to paint most of the under carriage gloss black.

 I sand blast them and use an epoxy primmer followed by Imron paint.

 It is easy to keep clean and will not rust.

 

 The under side of the body is painted the same way with using the body color.

I blast the paints into every nook and cranny. It may or may not cause runs but it is better than rot. 

All painting is done on unassembled parts.

 

  I never use undercoating as it will eventually cause body rot by trapping water.

 

 It is not original but I consider it as an improvement and how the manufacturer would have done it if cost was not a factor in the manufacturing of it.

 

 The original color on the under side of a 56 Chevy is red oxide flat primmer. I could have used a flat red to match the original but I like the green.

Edited October 17, 2023 by R Walling (see edit history)

[8E45E]

7 hours ago, R Walling said:

  I never use undercoating as it will eventually cause body rot by trapping water.

I plan to use spray-on Boxliner in the same texture as undercoating.  Besides not trapping water, it will always retain that 'freshly laid asphalt' appearance, unlike the factory bitumen/tar-based undercoating which will look dirty once road dust adheres to it.

 

Craig

 

 

 

[Terry Bond]

The best quality paints for what you have in mind are produced by Martin Seynour.  I could be mistaken but believe these paints are rebranded and sold by restoration supply companies like Eastwood.  They may be available at Napa stores. 

 

They make a whole line of specialty metal-like paints including cast iron, freshly blasted aluminum, gray, and one of my favorites-a stainless steel paint that isn't quite silver and not quite gray.  These paints have dull or semi-gloss finishes that end up looking like the metal they cover, not some other artificial covering.  An epoxy primer under them is what I applied. 

 

I used a lot of these paints when restoring our 1974 MGBGT in 2005/6.  Now with near 60K miles on it since then, it still looks pretty good and needs only a wipe-down with some WD-40 and a soft rag to bring it back to like new again. 

 

For small fasteners, I've reblued them using a product sold to gun owners made by Birchwood-Casey.  It's used in re-bluing gun parts and requires cleaning thoroughly (bead-blasting is best)  There are you-tube videos explaining that process.  A final coat with semi-gloss Rustoleum clear and it looks like brand new and lasts. 

 

Terry

[Century Eight]

I agree with @Terry Bond to use NAPA/Martin Senour paints.   A top Chevelle restorer I know showed me how to get that cast iron look on my hood hinges and hood latch.  i did what he said and it looks great.  He said to first paint the part with Gray primer surfacer part number 7284, then while still wet, lightly spritz it with Iron Cast, part number 7250, all by MartinSenour.   It will have a dull, unpainted looking, cast looking finish.  I like it for my hood latch and hinges and other parts that came unpainted. 

 

I cant tell you how long it lasts, because this is on a garage queen that is always protected and never goes any where.  But it is protected by paint and still looks good after four years.  The guy that told me this has sold muscle cars for big money at the major tv auctions. His cars are show-stoppers.

[californiamilleghia]

25 minutes ago, Century Eight said:

I agree with @Terry Bond to use NAPA/Martin Senour paints.   A top Chevelle restorer I know showed me how to get that cast iron look on my hood hinges and hood latch.  i did what he said and it looks great.  He said to first paint the part with Gray primer surfacer part number 7284.........

Is this in Spray cans ?  or  by the quart that you need to need to mix ?

 

Thanks

[prewarnut]

..not sure it gives the best results on all items unless uniform finish and cleaning....but does make things look old.

 

[Terry Bond]

The paints are available in spray cans.  I'm sure larger quantities could be purchased if you want to spray a full chassis.

Terry

[Littlestown Mike]

Thanks to all of you. Great responses.  Even a little variety.

Now I have some options to consider, but I have a starting point.

Thanks again

 

 

[Century Eight]

@californiamilleghia yes this is available in spray cans and the p/n I referenced was a NAPA number

[Littlestown Mike]

I sandblasted a front spindle and motor mount arms--all cast or forged iron-- and hit them with the Rustoluem clear satin. The clear immediately brought out some color in some areas that wasn't apparent when they were fresh from the sandblast cabinet.  

At this point I am thinking that the "cast blast paint" might produce a more regular appearance without the color variations.