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1922 Dodge touring questions


alsfarms

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I will post a few pictures of a very straight, clean, running project, titled as a 1922 but with the 1923 exterior door handles. This car was likely worked over in the 1970's-80's and not used much since then and allowed to degenerate some. Here are a couple of questions. Look at the pictures you will notice the upper windshield frame and glass are out but not in bad shape. Can I reinstall the upper windshield frame without removing the stanchions? The engine runs good off the vacuum tank but the clutch is stuck from non-use. Ed, on another Dodge forum on a stick clutch issue, share a method. I will give his method a chance before I do anything more radical. His method is to put the transmission in neutral and let run enough to warm up the flywheel/clutch. Next, start the engine in gear and drive it out in a safe area and get up to speed with the clutch pedal pushed down. Next, do some hard intermitted brake pedal as if trying to panic stop the car. The warmed up condition, forward motion of the car and panic stop efforts will, according to Ed, 100 percent of the time, unstick the clutch. These are the first two things I will be dealing with, windshield then clutch. Hopefully the vacuum tank does not give any grief. If the transmission likes to grind excessively I will drain the transmission case and replace with clean and heavy weight grease/lubricant. What is the recommended lube? Other thoughts on "does and don'ts" as I bring this project out of hibernation. Other specific questions likely will follow.

Al

IMG_20230721_193950185_HDR.jpg.c983dfd466169fee595cdaeebdbc34f9.jpgIMG_20230721_194005120_HDR.jpg.8298e01f9b75a26dec3b6d149554421e.jpgIMG_20230721_194020842_HDR.jpg.f421c1a06362ae3ef9dc04fd48caf496.jpg

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You should be able to work the top windshield into place, as I managed to remove one without doing any noticeable damage, but it is a case of applying brute force gently. If not rusted in to place, the stanchions are held on by one nut each at the bottom. Access is easy and removal isn’t a big deal… but sometimes they don’t budge even after the nuts are pulled. I beat on the ones on my yard art car until there wasn’t enough nut left to protect the threads from further beating and decided the yard art car gets to keep half a windshield. 
 

if you are missing the windshield hinge guts (they create detent at different levels of open) to attach the frame to the stansions, myers or Romar will have them. 
 

the vacuum tanks are pretty straightforward, give it and the carb a good cleaning. 
 

Transmission (and rear end) lube is old 600w (roughly SAE 250 or ISO 1200).  You can get 600 from either myers or Romar, but it is a hair cheaper from the ford suppliers.  You can also get an ISO 1500 from restoration supply. Whenever buying heavy oil for antique car applications make sure it is yellow metal safe!  This is the only reason I have mine shipped from antique car parts suppliers rather than running to the local tractor store… I am afraid I will accidentally buy the wrong stuff locally. 

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We tried fitting the top windshield in on grants 24 Ute. I would say it’s almost impossible trying to hold and then line up all the ball bearings. We tried it for about 6 seconds and looked at each other and said Nuh!!  Pull the posts out and put it on a nice flat bench it will be much quicker and easier that way. 
 

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Back in the day there was a tool sold by Miller Tool Co., they made service tools for DB and later Chrysler, that clamped and held the spring so the nut could be installed. I would never try this without pulling the windshield first. 

 

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Having never had to deal with Dodge Bro's windshield posts, in any form, are they keyed to hold them in one specific orientation or location? Any other bits of advice on dealing with the stuck clutch from you fellows who are much more knowledgeable on Dodge Bros. multi disc clutches? A couple of months ago, before I bought this Dodge Bros. Jewell, when it was run for me, I thought I could hear more drive chain slap on the starter-generator drive than what I liked. I am guessing that some slack is admissable, too much slack is not good. What advice can you share on that subject?

Al

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Look at the second picture that gives you a chance to scrutinize the headlamp rings. Why does the right ring have two rivets in the front and the left does not have them. Is there a difference in mfg technology or is the rivets a home brew attempt to repair a faulty ring? It will be a week or two before I can dedicate time into headlamp rings and trouble shooting that headlamp with a broken lens.

Al

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When assembled, middle pieces will keep the stanchions aimed about right until tightened. Earlier cars had nothing else, not sure about 22/23. 
 

I am fairly sure the rivets in the headlight ring are not correct, or if ever done on a dodge they were not used for long.  
 

Do your lenses have the db logo on them?  I have those on my car but understand I should have clear glass. 

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What year is your Dodge to have non Dodge logo lenses? Yes, my new to the family Dodge does have the Dodge logo lenses, one is cracked and will need to be replaced. I do have a replacement ring to replace the riveted ring. I think I have a can of spare  parts with the car that has most of the hinge hardware.

Al

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2 hours ago, alsfarms said:

Look at the second picture that gives you a chance to scrutinize the headlamp rings. Why does the right ring have two rivets in the front and the left does not have them. Is there a difference in mfg technology or is the rivets a home brew attempt to repair a faulty ring? It will be a week or two before I can dedicate time into headlamp rings and trouble shooting that headlamp with a broken lens.

Al

The rivets are probably holding the female bracket (there are three) on the inside of the ring which mate with the male on the light body, (they should not be there. Undo by turning the ring anti clockwise about 15 degrees while pushing inwards slightly against the spring. Be careful you don’t drop the glass.

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Mine is a 1915. I don’t have any documentation to support that I should have a clear lens, just word of mouth from some fairly reliable sources that the db logo lenses were not made yet when my car was. 

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9 hours ago, alsfarms said:

I will post a few pictures of a very straight, clean, running project, titled as a 1922 but with the 1923 exterior door handles. This car was likely worked over in the 1970's-80's and not used much since then and allowed to degenerate some. Here are a couple of questions. Look at the pictures you will notice the upper windshield frame and glass are out but not in bad shape. Can I reinstall the upper windshield frame without removing the stanchions? The engine runs good off the vacuum tank but the clutch is stuck from non-use. Ed, on another Dodge forum on a stick clutch issue, share a method. I will give his method a chance before I do anything more radical. His method is to put the transmission in neutral and let run enough to warm up the flywheel/clutch. Next, start the engine in gear and drive it out in a safe area and get up to speed with the clutch pedal pushed down. Next, do some hard intermitted brake pedal as if trying to panic stop the car. The warmed up condition, forward motion of the car and panic stop efforts will, according to Ed, 100 percent of the time, unstick the clutch. These are the first two things I will be dealing with, windshield then clutch. Hopefully the vacuum tank does not give any grief. If the transmission likes to grind excessively I will drain the transmission case and replace with clean and heavy weight grease/lubricant. What is the recommended lube? Other thoughts on "does and don'ts" as I bring this project out of hibernation. Other specific questions likely will follow.

Al

IMG_20230721_193950185_HDR.jpg.c983dfd466169fee595cdaeebdbc34f9.jpgIMG_20230721_194005120_HDR.jpg.8298e01f9b75a26dec3b6d149554421e.jpgIMG_20230721_194020842_HDR.jpg.f421c1a06362ae3ef9dc04fd48caf496.jpg

Just a suggestion, rather than asking the same questions (the transmission oil is a good example) you could peruse the previous posts covering the subjects and save some time. Another recurring suggestion has been as a first step, buy the Instruction Book.
 

IMG_0532.jpeg.822c0945c86ec8b27c25c518739efd36.jpeg

 

Just a thought.

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Good luck for me. I dug through materials and found a Dodge  Bros. Service manual. This one might be a bit overreaching as it is from 1927. It appears to cover mostly up to 1923 and a bit of the 1924-27 vehicles. This manual should answer a good share of my technical  questions. I must admit that it is nice to communicate with enthusiasts who have " been there, done that" on this forum. Pardon me if I may pose a question that may have been covered in the past.

Al

IMG_20230723_212636456.jpg.43f9d5111afd591704e0d37a9c002371.jpg

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No stress Al, just trying to save you some time and suggesting both some interesting and informative reading. Please continue to ask, we have many smart and experienced DB owners only to willing to share the knowledge.

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