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1916 buick Cone clutch "grabbing"


redbaron1930

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Hello;

   Several years ago I had the leather replaced on the cone clutch of my 1916 Buick D-45, it had been working fine, but this season it is excessively grabbing especially from a dead stop. I've read to use neatsfoot oil on the leather (it also says to "paint the leather with neatsfoot oil" in the service manual. I'm not sure how to do that in the car with the cone nested into the flywheel, is there a clever way to do this without taking it out? Also, could grease on the leather cause the same problem? I don't know if that's the case but it could be a possibility. As always, all insight is greatly appreciated!

 

     Andy

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I use an old hack saw blade inserted in a T-shirt hem.  Soak the fabric with Neatsfoot oil.  Use a stick to keep the clutch pedal depressed and insert it between the leather clutch and the cone flywheel.  Wiping the surfaces will spread the oil and remove the dirt as you apply the oil.

 

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11 minutes ago, Mark Shaw said:

I use an old hack saw blade inserted in a T-shirt hem.  Soak the fabric with Neatsfoot oil.  Use a stick to keep the clutch pedal depressed and insert it between the leather clutch and the cone flywheel.  Wiping the surfaces will spread the oil and remove the dirt as you apply the oil.

 

Mark;

    Great tip (as always). I should be able to do that through the access plate on the transmission

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"Sticking the clutch" in not really necessary if you use the car weekly, but if you let it sit over the winter or for a month or more it will save you a lot of grief where the clutch will stick to the flywheel and it can be problematic to get it loose.  I keep a stick in all of my cars so the clutch is disengaged when not driving.  My truck shown below.

IMG_20230617_194739_01.jpg

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Do the multi disc clutches that were built after cone clutches (like on my 1921) tend to also stick to the flywheel as well?  Do they also need to be stored with a stick holding the clutch?  Mine seems to be free but I was just wondering after reading this post.

Edited by IFDPete
Wording (see edit history)
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Pete:

 YES. Depending on relative humidity the steel disks will rust. Grease/ oil coatings on friction material can degrade the friction material/pit the metal plates and cause adhesion. A stick to partially push in the clutch pedal helps.

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On 6/16/2023 at 11:17 AM, Mark Shaw said:

I use an old hack saw blade inserted in a T-shirt hem.  Soak the fabric with Neatsfoot oil.  Use a stick to keep the clutch pedal depressed and insert it between the leather clutch and the cone flywheel.  Wiping the surfaces will spread the oil and remove the dirt as you apply the oil.

 

Mark is your '15 buick clutch inside a bell housing?

  This weekend I tried this method, It works on my 1910 EMF (flywheel is exposed) however I cannot do it in the 1916 Buick because the flange on the housing is smaller than the dia of the clutch. The only thing I can think of at this point is to put a table spoon or so of Neatsfoot oil on the bottom inside of the clutch and flywheel (with it engaged) then release it just enough to spin it by hand and try to paint it that way? Or am I still missing something ?

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27 minutes ago, Mark Shaw said:

Yes.  You can try a long neck oil can or squirt bottle with a bent straw to get some oil on the leather.  Then rotate the clutch and disengage it at different locations to distribute a dab of oil around the clutch surface.

Sounds like something like this is the only option, I will add a little at a time and try it. I don't think it can hurt unless I add too much!.........Thanks

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So, last night I used a squirt bottle and with the clutch released just enough that I could turn it by hand, applied the oil to the inside (forward edge) of the cone. rotated it a few times by hand then engaged the clutch and applied just a bit more. I started the car pressed on the clutch and let centrifugal force do the rest. It worked well and it now works like it did when the leather was first replaced and showed no signs of slipping.

  Thank you Mark and Bloo for the practical experience and suggestions! (another satisfied customer)!

 

     Andy

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23 hours ago, redbaron1930 said:

Thank you Mark and Bloo for the practical experience and suggestions! (another satisfied customer)!

Glad to help keep another old Buick on the road Andy. 

It is important to keep the leather supple so the clutch won't get "Grabby". 

I once failed to re-lube my 13 Buick clutch and paid the price by breaking an axle while loading the car for a spring tour.  

 

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On 6/22/2023 at 11:01 AM, Mark Shaw said:

Glad to help keep another old Buick on the road Andy. 

It is important to keep the leather supple so the clutch won't get "Grabby". 

I once failed to re-lube my 13 Buick clutch and paid the price by breaking an axle while loading the car for a spring tour.  

 

That was my biggest fear, breaking an axle or shearing a pinion keyway!

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I had a good visit with Andy this afternoon and he filled me in on just how he got things done with his clutch cone.  I stopped at our local Tractor Supply and got this Veterinary Syringe that I think is going to be just the ticket for getting Neatsfoot Oil onto the surface of the leather lining.  I already have my helper lined up to run the clutch pedal for me.  Removing the two floorboards is not a problem, but those two toe boards are nothing less than a cuss and a fight.  Luckily the bottom one is the only one that has to come out.  Please keep in mind that our car only has between 450 and 500 miles on the clock so far.  I am not going to get in a big hurry to treat the leather just yet.  I have been thinking about doing this next Spring when the car is ready to be driven for the season.  Putting the stick on the clutch pedal when the car is not going to be driven for a while is all too important.

 

Terry Wiegand

South Hutchinson, Kansas

AACA Life Member #947918

P7031698.JPG

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