55 Buick electrical

[old-tank]

The down function of the passenger side power window quit working from the driver side switch.  So I took the driver side panel off, switch checked OK, plug OK; took off the driver side kick panel and one wire in the harness that flexes at that location (dark red/white stripe) had cracked insulation and some strands of wire broken.  Replaced with a loop of flexible wire (lamp cord).  Still no joy, so off came the passenger side kick panel and that same wire (dark red/white stripe) had cracked insulation and was completely broken.  Repaired and everything works.

Note the door panel with the deteriorated arm rest.  Is there a spray foam the I could use to fill that?  It would be a big PIA to remove the cover and fix it correctly and most of those bend over tabs would probably break.  (or leave it alone since I don't see it when driving)

 

 

 

 

 

 

Back side of door panel:  I did not know about waterproof card board at the time (mid 1980's), so wall paneling served me well and it was free because the store wanted that hideous stuff out of the store.

 

 

 

I am still having trouble with glass fuses losing continuity and finding some new ones defective.  Flex-Fuse (link) seemed to be a neat way to solve the problem, but the contacts are slightly smaller than the glass fuses and they fit too loose.  I alerted the company of the issue they said it would be corrected...I will update.

[EmTee]

2 hours ago, old-tank said:

Is there a spray foam the I could use to fill that?

I would worry that the vinyl alone wouldn't be stiff enough to keep the foam from expanding unevenly and the result would be convex lumps rather than concave lumps.  If, however, you could make a mold from an arm rest that is in good shape using cardboard and spray foam, (use saran wrap to protect the upholstery) then that could be used on the driver's armrest to control expansion of foam injected from behind.  If you decide to try it, I'd recommend using the 'Good Stuff' meant for doors and windows that has limited expansion.

 

[Bloo]

I like the looks of that flex fuse thing, and it might even solve the problem for a while, but the root of most glass fusebox problems is poorly understood.

 

If you are getting glass fuses that aren't blown, the wire inside is still intact, but no continuity, look for a yellow ring around one end next to the end cap. If you find this, it is caused by a bad connection where the fuse clip is riveted into the fusebox. The connection gets hot and the heat travels up the clip, melting the solder inside the fuse and the hot glue holding the end cap on. Hot air, trapped inside the fuse, pushes the end cap off a little bit and pulls the fuse wire out of the molten solder. With the load now removed, everything cools back down. The yellow ring, if present, is hot glue that was holding the end cap in place. If you compare to a new fuse, the bad one will be longer by the same distance the yellow ring is wide.

 

The flex fuse thing might prevent this and keep working, in fact it probably would, but you would still have a connection getting hot and voltage loss in that circuit. Soldering an ATO (blade fuse) inline fuesholder on from the back before the current gets to the rivet would fix it forever, but wouldn't be pretty. I've not had much success just replacing rivets, and the clips for glass fuses are usually made of mystery metal that won't take solder. Your mileage may vary.

 

If your old fuses don't look like what I described, ignore this post.

 

[NTX5467]

I was thinking of the "gap filler" spray foam rather than the normal "fill the hole" foam.  Similar to what Emtee mentioned, if not the same thing.

 

Might need a few application holes just under the arm rest platform.  Apply with discretion to not get too much at one time.

 

Best thing would be to make a pattern out of dried foam, then get some foam padding and match that pattern in the foam.  The install it under the door panel cover, with good glue.

 

Good luck,

NTX5467

[NailheadBob]

@old-tankis your original fuse issue just as @Bloodescribes?

 

Bob

[old-tank]

2 hours ago, NailheadBob said:

@old-tankis your original fuse issue just as @Bloodescribes?

 

Bob

Yes, and basically it is 68 year old fuses and wires and replacement junk.

[Barney Eaton]

Willie  are the right and left armrest the same?    You could make a mold of the other one to use on the bad one. 

clamp it in place and spray the foam in from the backside.   A hair dryer or heat gun would probably soften the vinyl

so the wrinkles go away.    I'm sure you can make it work..... or maybe you know a taxidermist.