Which car or tractor does this hand crank fit?

[Ed in Virginia]

Got a box of hand cranks at an estate sale.  Some I  have identified as fitting vintage Ford tractors or cars.  This one I cannot identify.  Any help in doing so would be much appreciated.

 

Measurements are:

18" on the long section with the lugs

7.5" on the 2nd section

4.75" for the handle

Diameter of the crank is 3/4"

Diameter of the lugs is 5/16"

 

[Mark Gregush]

Could be Ford Model AA truck and maybe newer than that. 

[keiser31]

Long enough to be a mid thirties item. Maybe 1936 Dodge Brothers.

Edited December 14, 2022 by keiser31 (see edit history)

[studeboy]

Could also be a Massey Harris tractor crank.

[Ed in Virginia]

1 hour ago, studeboy said:

Could also be a Massey Harris tractor crank.

Thank you.  I just viewed a YouTube video of a guy starting a M-H 44 and the crank looked very much, if not exactly like mine.

[dustycrusty]

My 1950 Farmall Cub has one just like it clipped to the footboard.

 

Always a thrill to have to use it...

[Ed in Virginia]

9 minutes ago, dustycrusty said:

My 1950 Farmall Cub has one just like it clipped to the footboard.

 

Always a thrill to have to use it...

Does the one for your cub have the same dimensions as noted?  This one has a thicker diameter than what fits my '52 Ford 8N and it's a little bigger tractor than a Cub.

[Dave Mellor NJ]

23 hours ago, Mark Gregush said:

Could be Ford Model AA truck and maybe newer than that. 

The Ford Model AA had the same engine as the A so would have used the same crank(the cross pin end). The lug nut was bigger so the wrench end was bigger

[Mark Gregush]

The AA truck crank did not have the socket for the lug nut on it, it was just the crank. RE the diameter, would need to do some checking on that. 

[Dave Mellor NJ]

I had a Model A crank that I sold at Hershey a few years ago that had a big socket on the end which was the size of an AA lugnut so I stand by my earlier statement

[Ed in Virginia]

7 hours ago, Dave Mellor NJ said:

I had a Model A crank that I sold at Hershey a few years ago that had a big socket on the end which was the size of an AA lugnut so I stand by my earlier statement

Yep, this is from the Model A Ford Club of America's judging standards:

 

[Mark Gregush]

Ok got some more information on the AA starting crank, this is not one.

There were two different size lug sockets used between 1928 and 1929 on the AA trucks. The AA wire wheels used one size in 1928. When the early style disk wheels were first supplied (maybe later 1928 into 1929) an acorn type nut was used, that socket was a different size.

The above chart covers the car type starting crank not the AA truck styles, so there were more than 7 styes used on Ford car/truck products. 

When Ford went to the Budd disk type wheels with open ended larger lug nuts, the attached socket was removed.

The size and shape of the starting crank is the same as cars otherwise. The later wire (Lincoln style) wheels used on the truck/commercial chassis (like ambulance bodies built on truck chassis) may have had a special to those wheels lug nut combination staring crank or could have been like the Budd style, used two different tools, don't know about that. 

Take away, this is not a Model A or AA crank. 

[Gunsmoke]

Very close to crank for my 1931 Chrysler CD8, mine measures 16", 8" and 4" respectively with 3/4 shaft and the 2 pins. mine however has an additional 1.5" sleeve increasing diameter to 1" about 5" from pins.

[1937hd45]

16 hours ago, Dave Mellor NJ said:

I had a Model A crank that I sold at Hershey a few years ago that had a big socket on the end which was the size of an AA lugnut so I stand by my earlier statement

I agree, but it may have been for a 1928 AA truck, had one myself.  The later disk wheels had a much larger lug nut, and maybe a different wrench. 

[Mark Gregush]

2 hours ago, 1937hd45 said:

I agree, but it may have been for a 1928 AA truck, had one myself.  The later disk wheels had a much larger lug nut, and maybe a different wrench. 

Think I might have covered that in my last post.

[dustycrusty]

On 12/14/2022 at 8:54 AM, Ed in Virginia said:

Does the one for your cub have the same dimensions as noted?  This one has a thicker diameter than what fits my '52 Ford 8N and it's a little bigger tractor than a Cub.

My Cub's crank is 4" shorter than yours on the longest section. Too bad, as every other measurement is exact!  

[Ed in Virginia]

56 minutes ago, dustycrusty said:

My Cub's crank is 4" shorter than yours on the longest section. Too bad, as every other measurement is exact!  

Thank you, that's helpful.  I'm going to keep the ones that fit the Ford tractors but sell this one and I guess I can state that it will crank a Cub, but is longer than the factor crank.  If someone is restoring a Cub and wants all original gear this is not an option, but if a Cub owner wants one to manually start their Cub, it sounds like what I have will work for them, too.

[dustycrusty]

1 hour ago, Ed in Virginia said:

Thank you, that's helpful.  I'm going to keep the ones that fit the Ford tractors but sell this one and I guess I can state that it will crank a Cub, but is longer than the factor crank.  If someone is restoring a Cub and wants all original gear this is not an option, but if a Cub owner wants one to manually start their Cub, it sounds like what I have will work for them, too.

Advertise  it as a rare optional extended version of the shorter crank, specifically designed for a Cub outfitted with a  front blade/snowplow!

 

  I keep my 1949 Cub decked out for winter duties with a set of weights and chains on the back, and the factory snowplow attached to the front. Naturally, on the coldest, snowiest days the original 6 volt starting system reminds me why 12 volt conversions are so popular for these tractors, and I have to resort to pre- Charles Kettering  starting methods.

 

Unfortunately, when the tractor is so configured, the lift linkage for the plow is EXACTLY (seriously, you couldnt have purposely designed it better/worse) in the way of the crank so you cant turn the crank  over completely without hitting it. You can only get a half turn at best, and that being on the "down" side, which isnt the side you want to be cranking on (pushing down), even if your engine only displaces 60 cu.in. and has a compression ratio of about 3:1.    To clear the crank's swept area of these obstacles, you have to detach (unbolt) the offending linkage so one piece drops out of the way, and the other part is swung up and over-centered  back towards the drivers seat and out of reach. I replaced that pivotal (literally) linkage bolt between these bits with a drilled pin and a hairpin cotter to speed up the process, but a slightly longer crank that would clear the linkage and woulda been a far easier solution- at least until that inevitable 12 volt upgrade shows up.

 

OR, you can alternatively cut those extra 4 inches off, drill a duplicate hole near the new end, press in a replacement 5/16 pin...