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49 Chrysler Fluid Drive Transmission


Tewwillis

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Hello,

Looking for someone who knows about the fluid drive transmissions for a 49 Windsor. I just bought one and the seller told me it was a fluid drive, but it doesn't shift well in low & appears ok in high gear. I want to check the fluid to make sure its full which I believe is under the floor on the passengers side front seat.

Do these transmissions need adjusting, I was told they do?

Also what type of fluid does the transmission take? 

I received good replies to my first email, but the replies are not showing up.

Any help would be greatly appreciated. Also I'm close to Marietta, OH any mechanic that knows about these Windsor's would be great.

Thank you

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57 minutes ago, Tewwillis said:

Hello,

Looking for someone who knows about the fluid drive transmissions for a 49 Windsor. I just bought one and the seller told me it was a fluid drive, but it doesn't shift well in low & appears ok in high gear. I want to check the fluid to make sure its full which I believe is under the floor on the passengers side front seat.

Do these transmissions need adjusting, I was told they do?

Also what type of fluid does the transmission take? 

I received good replies to my first email, but the replies are not showing up.

Any help would be greatly appreciated. Also I'm close to Marietta, OH any mechanic that knows about these Windsor's would be great.

Thank you

Years ago I was told the correct fluid was 10w motor oil-

Would someone please confirm or correct this?

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At one time Chrysler recommended 10W motor oil, non detergent. Today we use tractor fluid, TDH type, ISO22 or ISO32 grade. You can get it at auto parts stores, farm supply stores, and Walmart. TDH stands for transmission, differential and hydraulic fluid. It is good for the fluid drive and the transmission ( they are filled separately). Trans fluid should be changed every 10000 miles. Fluid Drive never needs to be changed just checked and topped up every 10000 miles.

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Search the forum for "fluid drive" and you will find a wealth of information already posted including fluid types recommended (different for the fluid coupling and the transmission) and shift problems.

 

There are really no adjustments to be made on this transmission other than the shift linkage when you cannot get the gear shift leaver to go into a gear.  They are very reliable transmissions.  They will not shift correctly if the idle speed is too high.  It should be about 425-450 RPM.  The idle speed has to drop low to permit the shift to occur.  If the transmission will not downshift at a stop and stalls the engine, most likely the point in the governor need to be cleaned.  They are silver, so do not file them.  You only need to pull a piece of paper through them.  If the transmission does not downshift when you floor it, look at the wiring between the governor and the carburetor.

 

Fluid in the coupling is check through an access plate in the transmission hump below the dash.  Just pull the floor covering back and you will see the plate.  Once that is off, bump the starter until the fill plug can be seen through the opening.  Stuff rags around the plug so it can't fall down in the housing.  There is no opening in the bottom of the bell housing to remove it if you drop it.  Do not check this hot as the oil will be under pressure.  Only check when cold.  The transmission fluid is checked and filled through a pipe plug on the side of the transmission.

Also, don't slip the clutch to get started.  Release the clutch completely while standing still with the brake on then start out with the accelerator.

 

Hope this helps.

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Thanks Dave. Appreciate all the help I can get. I received a email from a Chrysler member who wrote to make sure the transmission was adjusted, so after reading your reply it doesn't need adjusting. I need to have it checked out - I don't want to do damage to the transmission. The seller had the battery hooked up backwards on the 6 volt system, so I'm not sure what all I need to do now. It ruined the battery not sure about the starter or generator or anything else. We lean as we go.

Again thanks

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When checking/topping off the fluid coupler, remove the drain/fill plug...you can then turn the "fans" on the rear of the coupling while looking in that fill hole. You will eventually see another hole show up within, and now you can stick a small funnel inside. Took me a while to figure that out! Note that the couplers can develop leaks at their seals, and not easily remedied. They can be low on fluid and still go without hurting much, except the engine will rev higher when starting out. Best to keep them topped off. Get way too low, however, and the car won't move much at all. I've probably put 8k+ miles on my 49 New Yorker in the last 1-1/2 years. Sure as shootin' you'll never see me laying rubber at a stoplight, but it's reliable and a novelty. Oh, if you're sitting at a real long stoplight, take it out of gear. The coupler builds up a lot of heat just sitting there churning. And learn to use your parking brake, because that's the only thing keeping the car from rolling when parked, no matter what gear you use.

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