Carburetor question

[zeke01]

Several years ago (pre pandemic) I bought this carburetor thinking that it fit my 1933 Dodge. Once I got it home(of course) I saw that it was slightly different from the carburetor I am currently using. The question is, What do I have? Pics to follow. Zeke 

[zeke01]

On the last photo you will notice that the carburetor on the left has a spacer that the other doesn’t have. Can I add the spacer to the new carburetor and use it? Thanks. Zeke

Edited September 7, 2022 by zeke01 (see edit history)

[lump]

Check to see if the bore size is the same. Otherwise, if it will bolt up with correct linkage connection...why not mount it and see how it may perform? 

[wayne sheldon]

Which one is the new one? And which one is the old one?

I am certainly no expert on carburetors of that era! However, it appears to me that one of them has a manual choke on it, while the other may have had an automatic choke?

It is usually easy enough to put a manual choke onto a carburetor set up for an automatic choke. I have done that a couple times on 1950s/'60s cars or trucks when the automatic chokes became too unreliable or I changed a carburetor with an automatic choke onto a vehicle that was set up with a manual choke.

It often is NOT easy to make an automatic choke work on a vehicle not set up for one. Sometimes there is some link missing that is not easily adapted around.

[zeke01]

The one on the right is the new one. I'm not concerned about the choke. It is the spacer that I don't know about. Can I add it to the new one and use the old linkage? Should I mix and match the new with the old and come up with a Frankenstein that works?

[zeke01]

25 minutes ago, wayne sheldon said:

Which one is the new one? And which one is the old one?

I am certainly no expert on carburetors of that era! However, it appears to me that one of them has a manual choke on it, while the other may have had an automatic choke?

It is usually easy enough to put a manual choke onto a carburetor set up for an automatic choke. I have done that a couple times on 1950s/'60s cars or trucks when the automatic chokes became too unreliable or I changed a carburetor with an automatic choke onto a vehicle that was set up with a manual choke.

It often is NOT easy to make an automatic choke work on a vehicle not set up for one. Sometimes there is some link missing that is not easily adapted around.

Sorry, forgot to link.

[37_Roadmaster_C]

The spacer normally makes little difference. You will notice there is a spacer on the original carb, it is just much thinner. The spacer is often a heat insulator, nothing more. If Jon, Carbking, jumps in he is the expert and will have the right answer.  For right now, if the venturi bore is the same size and the bolt pattern is right, bolt it on and give it a try. I would not mix and match unless it was the last resort. As built is best unless it does not work. 

[carbking]

The carbs in question are type EXV-2. This information is about as helpful as the term "red car" as Stromberg built 124 different type EXV-2 carbs for use on engines from 140 CID to 361 CID.

 

Personally, I would NOT bolt it on unless I knew EXACTLY the origin of the carburetor.

 

But then, I dislike rebuilding engines.

 

I would suggest rebuilding your original carburetor, and flipping the unknown.

 

And you might look at the third line in my signature block.

 

Jon

Edited September 8, 2022 by carbking (see edit history)

[zeke01]

The unit appears to be NOS. Aside from the EXV2, there are no numbers to identify the unit. Zeke

[carbking]

Some of these have a STAMPED code number.

 

The ones not stamped were identified by tag only.

 

If a tagged unit, and the tag has been removed:

 

(1) Locate ALL of the original Stromberg drawings

(2) TOTALLY disassemble the carburetor and measure everything

(3) Compare measurements to drawings and eliminate possibilities until only one is left

 

How do you value your time?

 

And, with no offense meant, we no longer have the time to offer this service, as we used to do. If we did, I would identify those of my own which are not identified. In a nutshell, if not stamped or tagged, it is a doorstop.

 

Jon

 

[60FlatTop]

4 hours ago, carbking said:

I would suggest rebuilding your original carburetor, and flipping the unknown.

"When in doubt flip it out" to paraphrase an old Navy saying.

 

I had an EXV-2 floating around for years that came from an Essex Terraplane 8, or supposed to have.

 

 

[zeke01]

4 hours ago, carbking said:

Some of these have a STAMPED code number.

 

The ones not stamped were identified by tag only.

 

If a tagged unit, and the tag has been removed:

 

(1) Locate ALL of the original Stromberg drawings

(2) TOTALLY disassemble the carburetor and measure everything

(3) Compare measurements to drawings and eliminate possibilities until only one is left

 

How do you value your time?

 

And, with no offense meant, we no longer have the time to offer this service, as we used to do. If we did, I would identify those of my own which are not identified. In a nutshell, if not stamped or tagged, it is a doorstop.

 

Jon

 

Is this the stamped number? Zeke

[carbking]

 

That is a RAISED number; the code number is stamped INTO the metal (recessed) using metal marking stamps.

 

Jon.

[zeke01]

6 hours ago, carbking said:

 

That is a RAISED number; the code number is stamped INTO the metal (recessed) using metal marking stamps.

 

Jon.

I will keep looking. Zeke 

[37_Roadmaster_C]

@zeke01,  Ignore everything I said above, EXCEPT, believe what Jon says 😀!!