1965 idle stator …continuity …minds a moosh

[moran75]

Hi all

 

its been a long day - can’t think straight !

 

re attached which is self explanatory …before and after pressing on the switch ….so switch is broke with fluctuation /high continuity reading like that?

 

thanks in advance

 

kev

 

 

[crowvet]

Looks good to me, with the switch open, you have near 0 continuity. With switch closed you have 31.2 ohm to complete the circuit.  I could be wrong? but that seems reasonable to me.

[EmTee]

Yes, the switch seems to be working.  I'm not sure about the 31 Ohms, but it could be intentional to limit the current to less than 0.5 Amps.

[moran75]

Thanks all

 

Aha…was expecting reading to move from 1 to close to zero? Like when you touch the two probes together?

 

by the way have I set multimeter to correct ohms - 200?

 

when I see set to  2k /20k I do get thr reading of near zero after all?…

 

many thanks for help

 

kev

[JZRIV]

31 ohms is bad with switch closed. Should be less than 1 ohm preferably.

[EmTee]

Is this the same switch...?

 

https://forums.aaca.org/topic/382746-micro-switch-for-transmission-stator/#comment-2407873

[moran75]

6 hours ago, JZRIV said:

31 ohms is bad with switch closed. Should be less than 1 ohm preferably.

In the photos I had meter set to 200 ohms - and was expecting a near zero reading but got the variable high reading as per pic..

 

but

 

at setting 2k or higher I did get a near zero reading 

 

and

 

when used the ‘beep’ setting on the multimeter (which i since found is maybe best way to test continuity?) I did get the beep

 

so maybe I had multimeter set wrong in the first instance ?…and switch ok?

 

cheers

 

kev

[moran75]

3 hours ago, EmTee said:

Is this the same switch...?

 

https://forums.aaca.org/topic/382746-micro-switch-for-transmission-stator/#comment-2407873

Looks to be visually …maybe in market for a replacement 😀

[telriv]

IF you get the switch from Loren it's almost guaranteed to be good.

He DOESN'T sell junk.

 

Tom T.

[moran75]

Good news

 

as an update , and in case this thread is stumbled upon in the future..

 

In a nutshell :

1)after my original late night post, a test light in the morning did light up when connected, but very very  faintly…whilst in the car switch didn’t seem to light up at all, hence it’s removal . 
 

so the audible beep on multimeter proved continuity, but not ‘enough’ If that’s a technical term😀

 

2)the metal ‘trigger’ across the top was rusty, not massively. Cleaned with wire wool and contact cleaner.

 

3) now test  light slows bright … and when connected to multi meter at lowers ohm setting (200) switch rates close to zero when pressed

 

so hey presto switch is now good

 

i had erratic operation at idle, which reduced to almost non existent,  even with adjusting whilst on car …hence digging deep

 

thanks all

 

kev 

 

 

 

 

[Loren@65GS.com]

On 8/6/2022 at 11:04 AM, moran75 said:

Looks to be visually …maybe in market for a replacement 😀

Same switch, just a salvaged part from one of the many cars I have had over 40 + years. I should edit the post. I failed to make a note of that. The switch has been test and is good. I re-enforced the bottom area because it is a weak spot from day one. Can't recall how many of those switches I have thrown away because the metal part was broken off and gone.

 

Thank you, Tom, for the vote of confidence. lol

 Kev and others looking at this. In my automotive tech electrical classes way back when we were taught to use the lowest setting on the meter and in the case of doing a continuity test. You are allowed 0.1-ohm resistance per connection. So, your reading is fine at 0.3 max.

 

  Loren