Brtele Posted June 3, 2022 Share Posted June 3, 2022 After I installed a new fuel pump, I installed a new clear Wix fuel filter before the fuel pump to see if I was catching any tank debris before it reached the pump. I've ran 3 full tanks through the engine and I've replaced the pre-pump filter at least (3) times due to a ton of rust accumulation. I thought the rust would start to subside, but I now believe it's time to replace the tank. I've purchased a new tank and sending unit from BestOfferCounts (James) and looking forward to running clean fuel and removing the pre-pump filter. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bloo Posted June 3, 2022 Share Posted June 3, 2022 Do you have a sock in your tank? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brtele Posted June 3, 2022 Author Share Posted June 3, 2022 3 hours ago, Bloo said: Do you have a sock in your tank? I have no idea. I'll find out once I drop the tank. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
XframeFX Posted June 3, 2022 Share Posted June 3, 2022 Test fit the new P/U with a few hand tight screws first with the tank along side of your Riv. Then either connect with extension wires or just measure with a multimeter for full scale range of 90 ohms. You'll probable find yourself bending the float arm and re-installing several times for a full swing from E to F. Finally, attach a 18 AWG wire with an eyelet crimped-on to one of the P/U screws. Once the tank is installed ground the other end of that wire - Highly Recommended. Question: Where did you source your Fuel Pump? There's only 1 open port nowadays, not 2. The fixed port is the wrong size for our Nails. I changed everything in my fuel system last year except the Fuel Pump. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lrlforfun Posted June 4, 2022 Share Posted June 4, 2022 I purchased that same tank from James. Not for a First-Gen Riviera but for a B-60. I needed to section the filler neck is all. James is solid! Mitch Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
60FlatTop Posted June 4, 2022 Share Posted June 4, 2022 Back in the late 1980's I had a '56 Olds Holiday I picked up for a daily driver. The car had set in a garage for a long time and other than the oil in the pan it was bone dry. Fuel, brake fluid, and any other liquids were long gone. There was very fine rust silt in the tank that mixed with my fuel when I drove. It never created a problem during the 4 or 5 years I drove it but whenever I pulled a plug the porcelain tip was orange. Great and memorable car. Some might say that my observations over the years have affected my sense of urgency. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brtele Posted June 4, 2022 Author Share Posted June 4, 2022 13 hours ago, XframeFX said: Test fit the new P/U with a few hand tight screws first with the tank along side of your Riv. Then either connect with extension wires or just measure with a multimeter for full scale range of 90 ohms. You'll probable find yourself bending the float arm and re-installing several times for a full swing from E to F. Finally, attach a 18 AWG wire with an eyelet crimped-on to one of the P/U screws. Once the tank is installed ground the other end of that wire - Highly Recommended. Question: Where did you source your Fuel Pump? There's only 1 open port nowadays, not 2. The fixed port is the wrong size for our Nails. I changed everything in my fuel system last year except the Fuel Pump. Thanks for the recommendations and will definitely follow your advice. The fuel pump I used was a car quest from Advanced (Typically not my first choice, but they had one and I thought why not). I followed your fuel pump thread and mine is technically not correct, but it’s working. I really shouldn’t talk much more about it for fear of jinxing the pump (knock on wood). 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kegart Posted June 4, 2022 Share Posted June 4, 2022 If you're replacing the tank and sending unit, you might want to think about replacing the steel fuel line . I have had several old cars that gave me trouble with rust in the inside of the fuel line. Inline Tube sells pre bent line that fits good. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brtele Posted July 10, 2022 Author Share Posted July 10, 2022 I siphoned the gas out of the old tank today and removed the tank. It really wasn’t too difficult. The rubber fuel lines were still functional but in need of replacement. I’m having trouble testing my fuel sending unit with my fluke meter so u I think I’m going to hand tighten a couple of screws and hook it up to the Buick’s harness to see where I’m at on E and F. I’ll probably also knock some loose surface rust off and treat before putting the new tank up. Inside the fuel lines don’t appear bad either (the little bit I can see - fingers crossed). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brtele Posted July 10, 2022 Author Share Posted July 10, 2022 Tank installed and sending unit reading correct. Pretty straightforward replacement. Please let me know if anyone wants this tank. No leaks, but has some rust in the inside. Otherwise I’m going to depose of the tank. On to the next...rear seatbelt installation Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bill Stoneberg Posted July 12, 2022 Share Posted July 12, 2022 On 6/3/2022 at 9:03 PM, lrlforfun said: I purchased that same tank from James. Not for a First-Gen Riviera but for a B-60. I needed to section the filler neck is all. James is solid! Mitch Did the same for my 60 Electra. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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