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65 - New Gas Tank and Fuel Sending Unit


Brtele

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After I installed a new fuel pump, I installed a new clear Wix fuel filter before the fuel pump to see if I was catching any tank debris before it reached the pump.  I've ran 3 full tanks through the engine and I've replaced the pre-pump filter at least (3) times due to a ton of rust accumulation.

 

I thought the rust would start to subside, but I now believe it's time to replace the tank.

 

I've purchased a new tank and sending unit from BestOfferCounts (James) and looking forward to running clean fuel and removing the pre-pump filter. 

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Test fit the new P/U with a few hand tight screws first with the tank along side of your Riv. Then either connect with extension wires or just measure with a multimeter for full scale range of 90 ohms.

You'll probable find yourself bending the float arm and re-installing several times for a full swing from E to F.

Finally, attach a 18 AWG wire with an eyelet crimped-on to one of the P/U screws. Once the tank is installed ground the other end of that wire - Highly Recommended.

 

Question: Where did you source your Fuel Pump? There's only 1 open port nowadays, not 2. The fixed port is the wrong size for our Nails. I changed everything in my fuel system last year except the Fuel Pump.

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Back in the late 1980's I had a '56 Olds Holiday I picked up for a daily driver. The car had set in a garage for a long time and other than the oil in the pan it was bone dry. Fuel, brake fluid, and any other liquids were long gone. There was very fine rust silt in the tank that mixed with my fuel when I drove. It never created a problem during the 4 or 5 years I drove it but whenever I pulled a plug the porcelain tip was orange. Great and memorable car.

 

Some might say that my observations over the years have affected my sense of urgency.

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13 hours ago, XframeFX said:

Test fit the new P/U with a few hand tight screws first with the tank along side of your Riv. Then either connect with extension wires or just measure with a multimeter for full scale range of 90 ohms.

You'll probable find yourself bending the float arm and re-installing several times for a full swing from E to F.

Finally, attach a 18 AWG wire with an eyelet crimped-on to one of the P/U screws. Once the tank is installed ground the other end of that wire - Highly Recommended.

 

Question: Where did you source your Fuel Pump? There's only 1 open port nowadays, not 2. The fixed port is the wrong size for our Nails. I changed everything in my fuel system last year except the Fuel Pump.

Thanks for the recommendations and will definitely follow your advice.

 

The fuel pump I used was a car quest from Advanced (Typically not my first choice, but they had one and I thought why not).  I followed your fuel pump thread and mine is technically not correct, but it’s working.  I really shouldn’t talk much more about it for fear of jinxing the pump (knock on wood).

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If you're replacing the tank and sending unit, you might want to think about replacing the steel fuel line .

I have had several old cars that gave me trouble with rust in the inside of the fuel line.

Inline Tube sells pre bent line that fits good.

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  • 1 month later...

I siphoned the gas out of the old tank today and removed the tank. It really wasn’t too difficult.

 

 The rubber fuel lines were still functional but in need of replacement.

 

 I’m having trouble testing my fuel sending unit with my fluke meter so u I think I’m going to hand tighten a couple of screws and hook it up to the Buick’s harness to see where I’m at on E and F.

 

 I’ll probably also knock some loose surface rust off and treat before putting the new tank up.

 

 Inside the fuel lines don’t appear bad either (the little bit I can see - fingers crossed).

 

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Tank installed and sending unit reading correct. Pretty straightforward replacement.

 

 Please let me know if anyone wants this tank. No leaks, but has some rust in the inside.  Otherwise I’m going to depose of the tank.

 

 On to the next...rear seatbelt installation

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