De Soto Frank Posted May 17, 2022 Share Posted May 17, 2022 (edited) Looking for replacement handles for dash-mounted combination lighting and ignition switch by DELCO, as used on 1927 Chandler. The stumps are the two blobby-looking things beneath the pull control. Perhaps they were used on other makes ? If not exact replacements, would like a functional replacement. Edited May 17, 2022 by De Soto Frank (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
34LaSalleClubSedan Posted May 17, 2022 Share Posted May 17, 2022 Try Bob's. He makes them Online Catalog - Bob's Automobilia (bobsautomobilia.com) 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
De Soto Frank Posted May 17, 2022 Author Share Posted May 17, 2022 Thank you! Looks like he has them! Is there any on-line info about working on these switches ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
34LaSalleClubSedan Posted May 17, 2022 Share Posted May 17, 2022 Be very careful removing the 2 broken stumps. Part, or all of the switch behind the dashboard that the switches fit into may also be pot metal 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Oregon Desert model 45 Posted May 17, 2022 Share Posted May 17, 2022 Buick used a Delco combination switch that mounted in the dash, but your switch is mounted behind the dash so don't know if its the same or not. It would help if you removed the switch posted a photo of it. There are threads discussing Buick Delco switches in the Buick Pre-war section. To remove the handle, I have drilled through them and they usually loosen up during drilling and will come out. That metal can be very hard and brittle or it can be very gummy and stick to the drill tip. Always best to use a sharp drill. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dibarlaw Posted May 18, 2022 Share Posted May 18, 2022 Yes, we have been there! These 2 were junk. By drilling out the swollen shafts I was able to save this unit. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
De Soto Frank Posted May 18, 2022 Author Share Posted May 18, 2022 Thanks for the replies. I will try to crawl under the dash and see what things looks like for removal of the entire switch. The vehicle I am working on is an incredibly well-preserved original survivor, so I am trying to disturb as little as possible (eg: fossilized wiring, etc.) I am curious as to how the original handles are secured, since the entire switch body is concealed behind the dash-panel. I'm assuming the levers weren't a press-in / snap fit from the front- side ? Did any other makes use this concealed switch arrangement ? Chandler info is very scarce... Thanks ! Frank Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wayne sheldon Posted May 19, 2022 Share Posted May 19, 2022 Those Delco switches were used on maybe a hundred medium and high end marques! In some cases, things like Cadillac and Lincoln used nearly identical switches with only the face and escutcheon being different. Most likely your Chandler switch will be interchangeable with more common cars like Buick. Swap the face plates, replace the handles, and go! Delco made smaller switches for lesser marques as well. I don't know, but have been told the handles can interchange even with some of those. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
34LaSalleClubSedan Posted May 19, 2022 Share Posted May 19, 2022 4 minutes ago, wayne sheldon said: Those Delco switches were used on maybe a hundred medium and high end marques! In some cases, things like Cadillac and Lincoln used nearly identical switches with only the face and escutcheon being different. Most likely your Chandler switch will be interchangeable with more common cars like Buick. Swap the face plates, replace the handles, and go! Delco made smaller switches for lesser marques as well. I don't know, but have been told the handles can interchange even with some of those. From the pics, no face plate on the dash, so a non-factor stated about swapping face plates??? Your getting the new handles from Bob's Auto........ On the back side it should be a bakelite casting that slips into the pot metal casting where the wires attach for your lights and ignition etc. Inside that you should find 2 spring steel fingers that each have a ball bearing in between each spring steel and bakelite. So, get the old stumps ground down without damaging the bezels, the pot metal base, the parts inside it, or the bakelite, and work on the backside with the switch out of the dash. You should be able to remove the bakelite back (3 screws or 4 ?) with the switch in the dash and remove the parts so you don't damage the insides when blindly grinding out the stumps. Just a after thought That's what I had to do with my 25 Packard with a Delco Switch. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nickelroadster Posted May 19, 2022 Share Posted May 19, 2022 Sometimes the switch body which is made out of pot metal has swelled and doesn't want to come out. I had to reach around the back with 100 grit sandpaper to get the expanded size down to where it could be removed normally. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Oregon Desert model 45 Posted May 19, 2022 Share Posted May 19, 2022 I am wondering if the 2 bezels behind each lever are just another variant of the faceplate used by Buick. If this Chandler switch is indeed the same switch, this is what it will look like when opened up. There should be a U shaped clamp with 2 screws or nuts holding the switch against the backside of the dash which shouldn't be too difficult to remove. This will allow the entire switch body to drop down and make it easier to reach the wire connector screws. Once you have the switch out of the car and begin disassembly, be aware that when the screw holding the bronze contact spider is removed, there is a spring loaded detent ball that might jump out. 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
De Soto Frank Posted May 19, 2022 Author Share Posted May 19, 2022 Oregon Desert - Thanks for the warning about that Detent-Ball Surprise! 😮 My conundrum at the moment is how to remove the switch / levers from the dash: there is about 200* radius of the lever flange remaining on the LH switch (Ignition?), which still turns with finger pressure, so that would prevent the lever stump from passing through the dash bezel/grommet. It seems that the levers are retained by a fixing screw from inside the switch case, so it would seem that the case was installed in the dash, the levers inserted from the front side and secures, then the bakelite contact block was installed from under the dash. OR, perhaps this was done as a "bench job" in the factory (all the instruments / switches were installed in the dash panel), then the whole dash was installed in the car ??? 😵I don't relish the notion of trying to partially disassemble the switch while laying on top of the clutch & brake pedals, etc... Thanks, Frank Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
30DodgePanel Posted May 19, 2022 Share Posted May 19, 2022 (edited) 8 hours ago, Oregon Desert model 45 said: I am wondering if the 2 bezels behind each lever are just another variant of the faceplate used by Buick. If this Chandler switch is indeed the same switch, this is what it will look like when opened up. There should be a U shaped clamp with 2 screws or nuts holding the switch against the backside of the dash which shouldn't be too difficult to remove. This will allow the entire switch body to drop down and make it easier to reach the wire connector screws. Once you have the switch out of the car and begin disassembly, be aware that when the screw holding the bronze contact spider is removed, there is a spring loaded detent ball that might jump out. Great notes. We can all learn a thing or two following these types of standardized formats for notating our problem pieces. I for one can appreciate the time you put into labelling everything digitally. Personally, I like to have both the digital and physical copy on paper, so I simply print it off and take it to my shop while working on parts to help troubleshoot or if I need for reference. Simple, clear, and straightforward. Also comes in handy when fabricating parts and other projects non car related. I've even used something similar when doing family genealogical research in order to be able to see the broader picture at a glance. I highly recommend more guys try and perform these kind of digital accomplishments as it saves a lot of headaches in the end. Takes some time up front but worth it. Edited May 19, 2022 by 30DodgePanel (see edit history) 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
34LaSalleClubSedan Posted May 19, 2022 Share Posted May 19, 2022 Simple flat dash board. Might be better to disconnect the all gauges, remove the complete dash, and do the work on a bench. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Oregon Desert model 45 Posted May 19, 2022 Share Posted May 19, 2022 If this has that same Delco switch body, the bezels are part of the switch assembly and handle stumps won't need to be removed. Once the clamp holding switch to dash has been removed, push the switch back until the bezels clear, then tip downward slightly to get the handle stump through the hole and it should drop down. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
De Soto Frank Posted May 19, 2022 Author Share Posted May 19, 2022 (edited) Oregon, take a look at the photo below; the only things on the operator's side of the dashboard are the levers (well, at one time), and two round "bezels" that actually look more like grommets. Circled in red. The flange of the lever was originally octagonal (?) in shape. The face of the switch does not show through a round or oval cut-out in the dash panel, as with Packards, or Buicks... 😵 Edited May 19, 2022 by De Soto Frank (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
34LaSalleClubSedan Posted May 19, 2022 Share Posted May 19, 2022 The handles broke because the stumps inside as well as the pot metal housing on the back side of the dash board have swollen tight. They will not just push out. That's why best to remove the whole dash board and work on the back side IMHO Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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