17White Posted February 5, 2022 Author Share Posted February 5, 2022 Thanks Dave. Got another question though. Drained the oil and it smelled good and looked clean but looked like gear oil. Should I use a detergent engine oil or not? What oil do I use in the transmission and rear end? Do I use just multi-purpose grease in the fitting and water pump? The mag has what looks an oil fill under a small cap. Do I just put a few drops in that? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dandy Dave Posted February 6, 2022 Share Posted February 6, 2022 I run a detergent 30 weight oil in my Truck. I have not had a problem. If an engine is clean inside, Detergent oil will never bother it. Being these whites have a lost oil system and the engine is always getting fresh oil it should not be a problem. The problem is when the pan is full of sludge to the point that It could plug the oil pump pickup. Transmission should be 600 Wt. Steam Cylinder oil. Water pump. Best if you use a Marine Grease in it. I have some blue stuff around here somewhere. Oiling the mag. Just a few drops a year as too much can work its way into the armature and really muck things up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
17White Posted February 12, 2022 Author Share Posted February 12, 2022 (edited) Found a number on the frame just in front of the transmission. Or at least a piece of a number. Looks like 67061. The next question. How do you remove the rear wheel? Do you have to remove the hub and bearings? Pull the hub cap and then what? If you remove the wheel bolts it looks like that would just take the wheel apart. Edited February 12, 2022 by 17White (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
edinmass Posted February 12, 2022 Share Posted February 12, 2022 Removing the rear wheel is tricky.......I will try and post some photos. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
17White Posted February 13, 2022 Author Share Posted February 13, 2022 That would be great because I have no idea how to do it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
edinmass Posted February 13, 2022 Share Posted February 13, 2022 Look at number 25 in the photo.......... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
edinmass Posted February 13, 2022 Share Posted February 13, 2022 For the lack of a better term, there are two bolts with “feet” that go from the backing plate through the rear end and clamp the bearing and cover into position. Thus the wheel, and axle all pull out as an assembly. Strangest thing I have ever seen. I may have additional photos to show you if they are in my cloud.....I will check. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
edinmass Posted February 13, 2022 Share Posted February 13, 2022 You owe me a beer..........😎 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
edinmass Posted February 13, 2022 Share Posted February 13, 2022 1 hour ago, 17White said: That would be great because I have no idea how to do it. Welcome to the club.......with the dirt and grease, it was almost impossible to figure out, fortunately we had the owners manual/parts book. Then we were able to figure it out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
edinmass Posted February 13, 2022 Share Posted February 13, 2022 You also need a puller to get it apart......which we had to make up.........I don’t have a photo unfortunately. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
17White Posted February 13, 2022 Author Share Posted February 13, 2022 See if I have it right. You take off the cap and remove the nut, then turn the bolts with feet out then pull out the wheel and axle. If so how can you tell when the feet have released the bearing? Or do you just remove the nuts on the bolts with feet and it will all slide out? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
17White Posted February 13, 2022 Author Share Posted February 13, 2022 What part do you need a puller for? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
edinmass Posted February 13, 2022 Share Posted February 13, 2022 Remove the nuts and washers all the way.....sometimes you can get the bolts out, others you can’t depending on the wheel and hub type. The entire thing needs several puller to get apart. Both for the axel, and the bearings. It’s simple......but remember every nut, bolt, and thread on the White is USS and NOT SAE or METRIC.......thus the hardware is all unique and a royal pain in the ass..........I bought a 1916 tap and die set for USS........and a bunch of NOS taps and dies from India left over from the 1950’s. If you need help with it let me know.....it busted my balls for a few months till I figured it all out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
edinmass Posted February 13, 2022 Share Posted February 13, 2022 When I bought my car.....ALL the wheel bearings were bad.........and the right rear felt seal had failed, causing a grease leak on the drum. Fortunately on the first drive when I hit the brakes at speed for the first time it burst into flames and burned itself clean........I was highly entertaining.......and stressful. My rear wheel bearing from Timken were 700 dollars plus each......got Korean NOS stuff for about 150 but it took lots of effort. The best thing about a White car or truck of the era is EVERYTHING is made to be serviced and repaired on the side of the road........understanding how it is made is the trick. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
17White Posted February 14, 2022 Author Share Posted February 14, 2022 Here is where we are at now. In the pictures you will see some yellow around what looks like some sort of I'll call it a large keeper or nut with square notches. It looks like it has been brazed on. Is this a screwed on keeper/nut or does it pull off with a puller? Everything looks ok except we need to be able to remove the hub to have the wood between the spokes and metal wheel replaced. If it is brazed on, can we just grind off the weld or does the whole thing come off? The axle and bearing came out without a puller. Came out easily. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
edinmass Posted February 14, 2022 Share Posted February 14, 2022 (edited) Welcome to the world of hack tractor mechanics. It should be held in place with a locking tab washer as you see in the photo below. Looks like you have a problem........and remember parts do not exist. Add that the threads are not standard..........and I can’t remember if it’s left or right hand thread. I recommend you stop on that side, go over to the other side and take that one apart. Get a basis for what it should be. And also will allow you to make a better decision on how much to grind on the hacked up side. Now is the time to slow down, and figure things out before you get pushed into a corner. PS- even with the lock washer, we had a terrible time getting the slotted nut to move and come off.....even after we made a socket to remove it. Edited February 14, 2022 by edinmass (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
edinmass Posted February 14, 2022 Share Posted February 14, 2022 (edited) Front wheel bearing nut is held in by these crazy cotter pins........bad idea.........as you can see. Edited February 14, 2022 by edinmass (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
17White Posted February 14, 2022 Author Share Posted February 14, 2022 The slotted washer is there. I thought that is what the slots in the nut were for. Same thing for my old Jeep fronts. Be careful telling me if I need help to let you know. I'll have you here pretty quick. Really, I do appreciate all you are doing. Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
edinmass Posted February 14, 2022 Share Posted February 14, 2022 Here are some more photos that will help. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
edinmass Posted February 14, 2022 Share Posted February 14, 2022 (edited) The hub puller is 3 1/8 x 16 TPI I had it made but the guy who was making them is no longer doing it due to age/illness. Edited February 14, 2022 by edinmass (see edit history) 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
edinmass Posted February 14, 2022 Share Posted February 14, 2022 Interesting......on my 1917 everything was a chore to get apart....even getting the hub and axel out of the rear end housing. The nut on my car was VERY difficult to move, even with the special socket......it took an hour on each side. Please list the bearing number you find......interested to see what it is........also, drain and flush the differential several times........and put a heat lamp on it. It will help things to flow........we did this with the transmission and rear. It had a ton of sludge in it. Cheap and easy to do, and will prevent a ton of headaches. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
17White Posted February 14, 2022 Author Share Posted February 14, 2022 Thanks. I am assuming that the nut is not supposed to be brazed but only the tabs on the washer are supposed to keep the nut from turning. The last picture of the hub and bearing still mounted is where we are at. What was that puller used for pulling? To remove the axle, hub or bearing? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
3macboys Posted February 16, 2022 Share Posted February 16, 2022 On 2/14/2022 at 7:59 AM, edinmass said: The hub puller is 3 1/8 x 16 TPI I had it made but the guy who was making them is no longer doing it due to age/illness. Ed, What is the purpose of the bolt on the side? I am only guessing to put added pressure on the sides and relieve some stress the threads? I may need to have one made for my Star is the reason for asking. Don Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
17White Posted February 16, 2022 Author Share Posted February 16, 2022 Ed. Got the right side wheel off, no problem. Didn't need a puller. Tight but not that tight. The right side had left-hand threads which seems backwards to me. I would think the right side would have right hand threads so rotation of wheel would keep it tight if washer failed. The nut was not brazed. I wonder if the left side was removed at some time and threads stripped getting it off. So they brazed it? I will get you the bearing number when I can. Would you think that both wheels would have left-handed threads? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
edinmass Posted February 16, 2022 Share Posted February 16, 2022 (edited) 14 minutes ago, 17White said: Adjust it open or closed as necessary. Works great. As far as left or right handed.....I work on too much stuff to remember. Edited February 16, 2022 by edinmass (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JV Puleo Posted February 16, 2022 Share Posted February 16, 2022 On the full floating axle in my Mitchell (which uses a similar locking nut) the RH side has LH threads and the Left side has RH threads so I think that is correct. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dandy Dave Posted February 16, 2022 Share Posted February 16, 2022 (edited) I have not had the rear end apart in my White truck. Interesting. Thanks for sharing Ed and George. Learning something myself today. Dandy Dave! Edited February 16, 2022 by Dandy Dave (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
edinmass Posted February 16, 2022 Share Posted February 16, 2022 Dave...be sure to flush the diffrential as no one wants a dirty rear end. I would also do the wheel bearings. 😎 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LI_BENTLEY Posted February 16, 2022 Share Posted February 16, 2022 Lots of miss info. The truck is a model GBBE or model 15 with a GK 30 hp engine White NEVER made a car wth a progressive tranny all are 4 speed either 3D or 4D which indicates position of shift lever in 4th speed. The position left back is direct or 1 to 1 the position left forward is either 3th speed or 4th overdrive. This truck has a 3D gear box so first is right forward 2nd is right back. 3rd is left back and 4th is left forward. Oh yea reverse is in front of 1st go thru 1st into reverse and back out of reverse into 1st then back into neutral, there is no neutral between reverse and 1st only a very short out of gear space. Yes the small lever at front is a compression release. This motor has two main bearings, big ball bearings. The oil tank needs to be filled every so often. The oil pump is on side of engine and is a piston pump giving a drip thru the sight glass on dash. Oil needs to be drained via pull button on front of crankcase next to the crank on right, hold out till oil stops if no oil comes out add till it does. The serial no. should be stamped in the cross member in front or tranny. Unless older than 1918 then only on brass dash plate. What is the motor no. Located on left rear motor mount. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LI_BENTLEY Posted February 16, 2022 Share Posted February 16, 2022 There is normaly no reason to separate wheel and axle, just turn L bolts and pull out as an assembly. Whites are easy to work on after you see how they are put together. Then put in press to push axle out if needed. Bearing should be a. 313. S /N 67061 was made in December 1919. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
17White Posted February 17, 2022 Author Share Posted February 17, 2022 I have a picture of serial numbers and it says trucks 1900 to 1940. Is this for all model trucks combined or is there a different list for each model? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
17White Posted February 17, 2022 Author Share Posted February 17, 2022 (edited) Number on the left side of engine is G-91-X and on left motor mount is GK and under that is 36936. Now what does all that mean? Edited February 17, 2022 by 17White Wrong number (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
17White Posted February 17, 2022 Author Share Posted February 17, 2022 Rear wheel bearing is a Hess - Bright #6317 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
edinmass Posted February 17, 2022 Share Posted February 17, 2022 The 6317 bearing indicates a heavier axel than the ones in my car.......probably a 1 1/2 ton model. My bearing was a 313 and marked WHITE CAR 313. Bearing size comparison...... Car - 60mm x 140mm x 33mm Truck 85mm x 180mm x 41mm Obviously the truck has a much larger bearing. And interestingly the truck bearing is inexpensive compared to the car.......by TEN times! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LI_BENTLEY Posted February 17, 2022 Share Posted February 17, 2022 White ran the serial no. as they made the cars/trucks the GK is the series of motor, it is a 30 hp 2 main bearing motor they made from about 1912 to 1925 or so. A good motor runs forever, that is why they made then for more than 12 years. The 6317 bearing is a 317 bearing, try old car bearing co. If it still turns just grease it and Go with it you will never load it as when new. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
17White Posted February 17, 2022 Author Share Posted February 17, 2022 What is the best thing to flush the transmission and rear end out with? What oil do you use in the transmission and rear end? So as I understand it, the number on the crossmember frame in front of the transmission is the truck serial number? 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LI_BENTLEY Posted February 17, 2022 Share Posted February 17, 2022 Not to get on your bad side Ed but the whistle on the motor is an explosion whistle, an exhaust whistle is on a cutout on the exhaust pipe. I know you know the difference but letting folks who don't know, know. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dandy Dave Posted February 17, 2022 Share Posted February 17, 2022 19 hours ago, edinmass said: Dave...be sure to flush the diffrential as no one wants a dirty rear end. I would also do the wheel bearings. 😎 Yup. Every time. 😁 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
edinmass Posted February 17, 2022 Share Posted February 17, 2022 (edited) Here you go.......your truck was built in April/May of 1917.........👍 Edited February 17, 2022 by edinmass (see edit history) 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dandy Dave Posted February 17, 2022 Share Posted February 17, 2022 6 minutes ago, edinmass said: Here you go.......your truck was built in April/May of 1917.........👍 67061 is December of 1919 Ed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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