Smartin Posted January 10, 2022 Share Posted January 10, 2022 (edited) I've had quite a bit of positive response from this video so far, so I thought I would share it in its own thread. I initially posted in on my Gonzo thread, but it's buried in there. Edited January 10, 2022 by Smartin (see edit history) 9 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
avgwarhawk Posted January 10, 2022 Share Posted January 10, 2022 Nice video. I do not use come-alongs. I remove the coil springs so the axle can move up into the well(via jack) and be at level with the rear of the transmission. A good tug or two and out she comes. 2 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Smartin Posted January 10, 2022 Author Share Posted January 10, 2022 That works fine if the car isn't 6' above the ground. I just don't trust that rear end only hanging via the shocks or springs alone. And really, 90% of the time when I do this job, the entire rear comes out of the car for a detail job. I did a bit of searching and see that the last year they require adjustments with shims is 55. Each year after that, the manual states that no shim adjustment is required on a bonded rubber torque ball. So this video theoretically could be relevant for 56 as well. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
364nailhead Posted January 10, 2022 Share Posted January 10, 2022 I really appreciate this video! Thanks Adam! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NailheadBob Posted January 11, 2022 Share Posted January 11, 2022 (edited) Nice video, you could make your own guide pins, 2 for the torque ball retainer, and 2 for the torque tube by using 2 long bolts for each and use a cut off tool and cut the heads off and use cut off tool to cut a slot in the head area you just cut off for a slot for straight blade screw driver, also might be easier for one person to do by using Kent Moore tool number J-6741 rear end axle jack for torque tube, might be able to align up easier going back in, if you want to see picture of tool, in the search window for the AACA forum enter tool number kent moore J6741. I will keep me eye out for any more videos you post. Bob Edited January 11, 2022 by NailheadBob (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Smartin Posted January 11, 2022 Author Share Posted January 11, 2022 Thanks Bob. Hindsight says I could have used a couple pins that were 3” long. I don’t plan that far ahead, and I’ve had ok luck just muscling it in most of the time 🤣 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
avgwarhawk Posted January 11, 2022 Share Posted January 11, 2022 3 hours ago, Smartin said: That works fine if the car isn't 6' above the ground. I just don't trust that rear end only hanging via the shocks or springs alone. And really, 90% of the time when I do this job, the entire rear comes out of the car for a detail job. I did a bit of searching and see that the last year they require adjustments with shims is 55. Each year after that, the manual states that no shim adjustment is required on a bonded rubber torque ball. So this video theoretically could be relevant for 56 as well. I pull the entire rear as well. No shims needed on my 54. I used the vulcanized torque ball. 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
avgwarhawk Posted January 11, 2022 Share Posted January 11, 2022 1 hour ago, Smartin said: Thanks Bob. Hindsight says I could have used a couple pins that were 3” long. I don’t plan that far ahead, and I’ve had ok luck just muscling it in most of the time 🤣 I use the pins. It's the only way when one has no help getting it back together! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NailheadBob Posted January 11, 2022 Share Posted January 11, 2022 Adam, On your brake issue, you noticed the new metal brake lines, you may have air trapped in the system, follow page 9-12 in the shop manual for bleeding sequence first L/F, R/F,L/R,R/R worked for me ask me how I know. If you have to remove master brake cylinder or booster, I made a tool to remove large nut for 1957 & 1958 Buick's see January 2020 page 38 in the Buick Bugle. Bob 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Smartin Posted January 11, 2022 Author Share Posted January 11, 2022 The car seems to stop ok, but I’m going to replace hoses and wheel cylinders. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KAD36 Posted January 11, 2022 Share Posted January 11, 2022 Nice video Adam - one of the better ones - thank you for posting it. Mapp gas sure comes in handy huh…..🔥 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Smartin Posted January 11, 2022 Author Share Posted January 11, 2022 Thanks! I actually had about 1.5 hours of footage to whittle down to 44 mins. That was not an easy task. Not many people realize that several hours of editing goes into videos like this. I do love my MAPP gas! 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
60FlatTop Posted January 11, 2022 Share Posted January 11, 2022 My detailing got pretty picky, right down to matching the brake line gravel protector spring wrap and Imron paint. Here was my motivation for the removal. One dry cap and a little squeak. My biggest problem was finding the torque to chassis chassis brake hose. I had one made locally: https://www.empireradiator.com/services/brakequip-ezibend-tube/ They were sticklers about having my old hose before they made the new one. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Smartin Posted January 11, 2022 Author Share Posted January 11, 2022 I had the exact same issue on my 60. Squeak squeak squeak dry cap Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TexRiv_63 Posted January 11, 2022 Share Posted January 11, 2022 Adam, great video! Before I took delivery of my 60 LeSabre Matt Harwood advised me of a significant torque ball leak and was kind enough to include this repair in my purchase. After watching the video I am even more impressed with his generosity. I appreciated the honesty in your video showing the bumps along the way, just like any real car guy will experience. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
avgwarhawk Posted January 11, 2022 Share Posted January 11, 2022 1 hour ago, Smartin said: I had the exact same issue on my 60. Squeak squeak squeak dry cap Same with my 60. Squeak, squeak, thump, grind, thump....what the..... The needle bearings were nothing but graphite dust. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
60FlatTop Posted January 11, 2022 Share Posted January 11, 2022 (edited) It has been a while since I posted this picture but it is always good for a '60 owner to know what's in the tube. I had an old friend who would call that u-joint counter-intuitive. And all the ones that haven't been changed are about 10 years older than the picture (hint, hint, nudge, nudge) Edited January 11, 2022 by 60FlatTop (see edit history) 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
M1842 Posted January 11, 2022 Share Posted January 11, 2022 Nice video, I'm watching all the videos I can on torque ball seal replacement to get my self psyched to do it on my old 55. Mark Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
avgwarhawk Posted January 12, 2022 Share Posted January 12, 2022 (edited) This memory popped up on my FB feed this morning. Replacement of the u-joint. Kind of ironic with the timing of this thread. Edited January 12, 2022 by avgwarhawk (see edit history) 3 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NailheadBob Posted January 12, 2022 Share Posted January 12, 2022 Chris, I like your idea using the car dollies to move rear axle around. Bob 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
avgwarhawk Posted January 12, 2022 Share Posted January 12, 2022 1 hour ago, NailheadBob said: Chris, I like your idea using the car dollies to move rear axle around. Bob It was a big help getting the entire assembly out from under and back in after the joint was replaced. Especially since I was on my own through the entire repair. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
60FlatTop Posted January 13, 2022 Share Posted January 13, 2022 I used a pair of bare rims to roll my assembly back under. The second picture shows the stack of mounted wheels I put under the rear bumper as my belt and suspenders to be sure it was safely supported with we painted and re-undercoated the bottom. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
60FlatTop Posted January 13, 2022 Share Posted January 13, 2022 Another hard learned tip, when ever you spray anything under the car be sure to mask the sides. Even a rattle can will sneak over spray up the sides. 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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