Looking for carburetor float for '63

[Adambravo]

So, after an unpleasant incident stalling on a major thoroughfare, my mechanic is looking around for a new float for my '63. Unfortunately, all the ones he is finding are like this one:1963-1966 Buick Riviera Carburetor Float - Carburetion - Standard Motor Products 63-66 Riviera Carburetor Float - 13723-05533936 - PartsGeek

... and that's not the one I need (he said it looks like a pair of headphones). I gave him the contact info for AB&G, Classic Buick Parts, and Buick Farm.

Any other suggestions? If I can't get a replacement float, what's involved in getting a new carburetor?

All advice welcome...

 

[RivNut]

Try Jon @ The Carburetor Shop in Eldon, MO.  Google it.  He answers the phones only a couple of days a week; the other days he’s out in the shop working. His website will tell you the days to call.

[1965rivgs]

1 hour ago, Adambravo said:

So, after an unpleasant incident stalling on a major thoroughfare, my mechanic is looking around for a new float for my '63. Unfortunately, all the ones he is finding are like this one:1963-1966 Buick Riviera Carburetor Float - Carburetion - Standard Motor Products 63-66 Riviera Carburetor Float - 13723-05533936 - PartsGeek

... and that's not the one I need (he said it looks like a pair of headphones). I gave him the contact info for AB&G, Classic Buick Parts, and Buick Farm.

Any other suggestions? If I can't get a replacement float, what's involved in getting a new carburetor?

All advice welcome...

 

  It would help if you specify what type of carb you have...there are two possibilities, Carter AFB or Rochester 4GC....judging by the pic in the link you provided you probably have a 4GC...I've had that same problem with several over the years...your car is flooding out, right?

  If the other sources you mentioned do not come through send me a message, I can probably help you out.

Tom Mooney

[carbking]

Need to know the EXACT tag number (if Rochester) or stamped/tag number (if Carter).

 

Rochester used at least 19 different floats in the various 4-GC carbs.

 

Carter used at least 5 different.

 

We go by original prints, not pictures.

 

But in the FWIW category, the one pictured APPEARS to be for a much later Carter 9000 series AFB; it is NOT a Buick Float.

 

Jon.

Edited November 15, 2021 by carbking (see edit history)

[Jim Cannon]

^^^^^

THIS, my friends, is why you deal with people that specialize in what they do. If you want things rebuilt right so that they work right, it starts with the right parts. Generic parts that kind of almost fit, close enough, will not do nearly as well as the correct parts.

 

[RivNut]

47 minutes ago, Jim Cannon said:

^^^^^

THIS, my friends, is why you deal with people that specialize in what they do. If you want things rebuilt right so that they work right, it starts with the right parts. Generic parts that kind of almost fit, close enough, will not do nearly as well as the correct parts.

 

Well said.  Everyone take heed and follow Jim’s advice. It may cost you a couple of pennies more at the time of purchase, but you’ll save big bucks in the long run. And you won’t get ulcer from your frustrations.

[60FlatTop]

If the original float is not missing it could be soldered either on the seam or if it got a hole somehow.

 

Put the float in warm water to vaporize any gas trapped inside. Watching it in water you will see vapor bubbles streaming out. When the bubbles stop the extra weight should be gone. Gently resolder the seam and wipe the excess.

 

Set it to the original specs and you should be good. At least you tried.

 

This only works with hollow brass floats, not Q-jets.

 

It is not a common thing but now that some cars are old enough to have set for decades with dry carbs the seams can corrode.

 

Looks like Parts Geek and Ebay parts compatibility both got there programs from the first NAPA store we had in our village. We used to call one of the counter guys "Two Trips" because when you bought a part from him you obviously made........

Edited November 15, 2021 by 60FlatTop (see edit history)

[carbking]

From my website:

 

BRASS FLOATS

Many mechanics have been conditioned to ask for a float each time they rebuild a carburetor, due to the reasonable price of modern, mass-produced floats, and the propensity of nitrophyl (foam) floats to absorb gasoline after time. In dealing with older, NON-CURRENT-PRODUCTION brass floats, neither of the above are true, and a mechanic should attempt to 'save' the float if at all possible.

The first step is to clean the float and inspect it for obvious damage. Small dings and dents are quite common, even in unused floats, and occurred when the manufacturer shipped the floats in bulk. Major dents (generally caused by water freezing in the carburetor) are not generally repairable. If one can hear liquid sloshing around inside the float, skip to the next paragraph. If the float looks to be reasonably damage-free, it should be tested. Testing is accomplished by grasping the float arm with a pair of needle-nose pliers, and submerging the float in very hot water. The hot water will pressurize the air inside the float, and a leaky float will blow a stream of bubbles.

If the float should need repair, it is important to understand how the float was originally produced. Virtually all brass float pontoons (the floating part) are composed of two pieces (a few are more) of brass soldered together. The pieces differ in the seam area, as one piece has a male seam and the other a female seam. One float piece will also have a small hole for temperature equilization. This hole will be covered by a small drop of solder, and will be as far from the seam as possible. The manufacturer would solder the two pieces together, allow the float to cool completely, AND THEN close the equilization hole. Soldering MUST be done using a soldering 'iron'. Repair should not be attempted using either a torch, or a soldering gun. If you plan on disregarding this advice, read the next paragraph first! The following procedure works for us (no, we will not repair your float unless we restore the entire carburetor): First, if liquid is present inside the float, find the hole, and remove the liquid by placing the hole down inside the hot water. The pressure will force the liquid from the float. If the float has much liquid, it may be necessary to remove the float from the hot water, allow the float to cool, and repeat the hot water dip. Once the liquid has been removed, and the leak has been marked, open the equilization hole by removing the solder. Solder the leak closed using as little solder as possible. A small piece of tape over the equilization hole will allow the hot water test to be preformed. If there are no leaks, remove the tape, and ALLOW THE FLOAT TO COOL COMPLETELY before closing the equilization hole. A final test, and you have 'saved' a valuable float.

 

In the event of a float which cannot be saved, or one that is missing, or incorrect, The Carburetor Shop has an excellent selection of USED floats dating back to the early teens. These floats are inspected, cleaned, and tested by us; and are sold only with the purchase of a carburetor kit. With no offense meant to anyone, THESE FLOATS ARE NOT RETURNABLE FOR ANY REASON.

 

One tip that sounds strange until you think about it: when soldering the float, hold the float in your bare fingers. If the float gets too hot to hold, you don't have enough heat!!!!!

[telriv]

As always Jon valuable information that MOST won't share.

Thank you.

 

Tom T. 

[RivNut]

Ain't it swell having some real professionals on this forum?  I used to peruse the ROA Facebook group on my wife's Facebook page till she made me get a page of my own.  I still peruse that site often.  From what I've learned from Tom, Tom, Jon, Jim, and numerous others, I could spend all day on the FB site trying to steer people in the right direction, but I don't want to go to the effort needed to try and get some of those guys on the right track.  They're content with bad information from the misinformed so I'll let them be.  If you want a good laugh, open that group and see what they don't know. It only goes to show you how much knowledge there is on this group and how freely it's shared.