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Heat riser modifictions


RivNut

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7 hours ago, XframeFX said:

Here in North America, it's the yellow bottle for more heat over the blue propane bottle.

Check your stove pipe while the manifold is out Frank. Plug one end and blow on the other end. Mine leaks, rust?. I think it's a spiral tube so can't shove another brass tube inside.

It's not a spiral tube but is a tube with what can best be described as a twisted dip stick which is inserted in the tube

Tom Mooney

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23 hours ago, 1965rivgs said:

It's not a spiral tube but is a tube with what can best be described as a twisted dip stick which is inserted in the tube

Tom Mooney

Is this stove pipe available? I can find the tubing kit but not what I’m looking for. Thanks

Dan

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NO, AND it is NOT replaceable as far as I know.

The tube has some kind of restriction inside of it to slow down the flow of hot air or else the incoming air would not be hot enough to heat up the choke coil.

One reason some replace the hot air choke coil with an electrically operated choke coil.

IF the system is working correctly, is, you will feel vacuum at the source where the rubber hose connects to the top of the carb. IF everything is sealed correctly.

 

Tom T.

 

 

 

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3 hours ago, telriv said:

NO, AND it is NOT replaceable as far as I know.

The tube has some kind of restriction inside of it to slow down the flow of hot air or else the incoming air would not be hot enough to heat up the choke coil.

One reason some replace the hot air choke coil with an electrically operated choke coil.

IF the system is working correctly, is, you will feel vacuum at the source where the rubber hose connects to the top of the carb. IF everything is sealed correctly.

 

Tom T.

 

 

 

The twisted insert in the tube swirls the air flowing through it, slowing it down and maximizing the heat transfer.

The complete tube inserts were available from Buick and I occasionally see them sold as an NOS part on Ebay. I wouldn't want to tackle changing one though.

Tom Mooney

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Thank you all for sharing your experience.

Went to 3 different homedepots and all of them quitted to sell the MAP gas. 

Took a maxigas instead, which is also a mix of different gases, but it does not generate enough heat either. 

To get the job done, I've cut off the rotten studs and drilled them out. Took me one hour in small steps to drill straight and cut the thread. 

The heat stove is a straight pipe and it looks solid.
Now it needs a little bit of cleaning and a ceramic coating to get back to the engine.

 

IMG_3103.JPG

IMG_3104.JPG

IMG_3105.JPG

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7 hours ago, OldGerman said:

Took me one hour in small steps to drill straight and cut the thread.

Too bad about the MAPP gas, but I bet it wouldn't have been hot enough either.  At least you managed to get the job done and it looks good!  ;)

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Just this week, I took a blue bottle propane torch to this 1957 RAMs Horn manifold. Tool pictured is a "One Hander" that's better than a pipe wrench. I had to work getting it to bite several times because I rocked it CCW & CW fearing a Stud might break off at the flange. After getting it to bite and using a snipe in my vise. it digs right in and won't slip!

I am now having trouble finding 3/8-UNC brass nuts and a Chev Heat Riser Valve.

 

Not concerned for a period correct Heat Riser. Summit has a 2-inch for 1965-72 (bottom image). My re-collection, should fit my 1957 RAMs Horn?

image.png.96a2bc8035a7aed81e668daca7c30c77.png

image.png.9871f3124c7d3e95af6dd6d828c883b1.png

 

 

Edited by XframeFX (see edit history)
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On 4/8/2024 at 1:11 PM, telriv said:

IF the system is working correctly, is, you will feel vacuum at the source where the rubber hose connects to the top of the carb. IF everything is sealed correctly.

Not if you have a fully open Power Brake Booster!

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John, pattern is the same for the heat riser and the rams horn. You will be good. McMaster Carr has brass nuts, but may have minimum order and shipping issues to you. Worth a check.

 

www.mcmaster.com

 

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2 hours ago, Chasander said:

Pic of stove pipe, notice groove, must of been sold over the counter or I wouldn’t have it. 

IMG_1021.jpeg

  It was...see my post above. Since yours is NOS can you get a pic looking straight into the tube? My experience with troubleshooting the hot air choke system is that there should be an insert that looks like a twisted dipstick. 

Tom Mooney

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On 4/17/2024 at 1:16 PM, telriv said:

How about shining a light in the opposite end????

Wonderful how SBC support is perpetual. I replaced the rusted-out "Pinched Tube" in my 1957 RAMs Horn exhaust which is a straight tube ordered for this very application. I suppose an exact "Pinched" replacement is too much to ask for in the aftermarket.

Light shines through:

image.png.b33db0ce8decee556b10aeea043af416.png

image.png.41eed642af496721feb313a40f0772de.png

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