jrj2 Posted December 21, 2021 Author Share Posted December 21, 2021 Is there a way to transfer this entire "thread" to the Buick Pre-War Forum ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hubert_25-25 Posted December 21, 2021 Share Posted December 21, 2021 (edited) I am not sure if 1924 would be correct for 1927. 1924 (first photo) and 1925 (2nd photo) look like different blocks. I think he needs 1926 on up. 1926 Master shown last. Hugh Edited December 21, 2021 by Hubert_25-25 (see edit history) 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jrj2 Posted January 4, 2022 Author Share Posted January 4, 2022 Happy New Year ! Hopefully 2022 is going to bring us a much better year than the last two. The picture just above this post looks just like the motor in the '26 that I am working on (aside of considerably cleaner & shinier). The oil dipstick tube in this picture is much shorter than what is on my motor. There is a '26 Standard, a '27 Master and a '30 Master in the same shop as the '26 that I am working on (so nice to have a few to compare). All of the dipstick tubes vary a little bit. The '26, that I am working on, has a dipstick tube that is probably two inches tall. Could this be an original piece or something that someone made to fit and be altogether wrong? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Oregon Desert model 45 Posted January 4, 2022 Share Posted January 4, 2022 Post a photo or else we have to guess what you have. 1924-1925 have a dipstick tube attached to the oil pan. I believe the dipstick opening was relocated to the block casting in 1926 and the tube should have been deleted from the oil pan. Another possibility is the dipstick was relocated sometime during early 1926 production. Below photo is the oil pan with damaged dipstick tube from my 24 motor. Show us what your engine looks like. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jrj2 Posted January 5, 2022 Author Share Posted January 5, 2022 This makes much more sense to me. I will get a picture for you, tomorrow. I'm thinking mixed parts. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bob Atkinson Posted January 6, 2022 Share Posted January 6, 2022 The bottom picture above is my car. The dipstick and location have not been modified. There is no dipstick tube is the oil pan. This car is the "second type" and was built in April 1926. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jrj2 Posted January 25, 2022 Author Share Posted January 25, 2022 Good morning, I am moving right along with these projects. Today I am looking for input on the steering gear box on the blue '26 Master. There is a pretty fair amount of slop in the steering wheel and I can feel something loose in the top of the gear box where the steering column connects. Does anyone have pictures of what is inside that steering box so that I might not have to dismantle it blindly ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hubert_25-25 Posted January 25, 2022 Share Posted January 25, 2022 Follow the links inside this link and you will find instructions for going thru your Jacox steering box. Hugh https://forums.aaca.org/topic/342099-parts-or-repairs-to-jacox-steering-boxes-anyone/#comment-2016999 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jrj2 Posted January 26, 2022 Author Share Posted January 26, 2022 Thank-you so very much ! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jrj2 Posted April 10, 2022 Author Share Posted April 10, 2022 Good morning, These two project cars have been so much fun to get up & running once again. This week I have been chasing oil leaks. Were these motors prone to leaks when they were new? Both motors leak from the block on the rear of the motor where the oil filter lines connect to. The leaks are the connection to the block itself (I am guessing they got too hot at some time or another to break the seal). I really am not wanting to pull these motors just to repair oil leaks, but does anyone have a picture of what these look like on the backside? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hubert_25-25 Posted April 10, 2022 Share Posted April 10, 2022 First photo is looking at the oil feed from the oil pump to the a) the main bearings and b) the copper tube to the "bulk head Y fitting". Second photo is the feed tube to the bulk head Y fitting. Third photo is the bulk head Y fitting which screws into the block from the outside. Tubing connector from the oil pump underneath. So do not mess with rotating the Y fitting unless the oil pan is off and you have loosened the tubing connection that is in the crank case. Fourth photo shows the Y fitting with stuff attached. One side goes to the head, the other to the oil pressure gauge. Fifth photo is the oil feed line to the back of the head. Quality of the copper tubing of the era is not great. Wipe the area down and see where it starts weeping from. Use a "Line wrench" (5 sided) anytime you touch these copper hex connections as an open end wrench will lead to rounded or removed corners on the hex. Hugh 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jrj2 Posted April 12, 2022 Author Share Posted April 12, 2022 Wonderful pictures; Thank-you. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jrj2 Posted June 2, 2022 Author Share Posted June 2, 2022 I was sick & keeping to myself. That sure made me appreciate feeling pretty good most of the time. Praise the Lord for being blessed. I am back to play with these old Buicks, again. Both of them were finally up and running before I got to enjoy this last month of challenges. The steering in the '26 is totally locked up! The steering wheel won't turn at all left or right. I raised the front of the car and can't even move the wheels by hand either way. The wheels are just locked pointing straight ahead. It worked last time I had it out before I got sick. From the pictures I have looked at, there is not much inside of these steering boxes. I am looking for any input, ideas or advise before I go dismantling this whole thing. I had collected some John Deere Corn Head grease for maintenance but this may be more than I had anticipated. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hubert_25-25 Posted June 3, 2022 Share Posted June 3, 2022 (edited) Pull the cotter pin in the ball connection on the end of the pitman arm. Back out the cup to disconnect the pitman arm from the drag link. Which one is binding, the steering box or the king pins etc. I have done a posting on this website on complete rebuilding of the steering box. Hugh Edited June 3, 2022 by Hubert_25-25 (see edit history) 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TFB3 Posted June 3, 2022 Share Posted June 3, 2022 On 6/1/2022 at 8:00 PM, jrj2 said: The wheels are just locked pointing straight ahead. It worked last time I had it out before I got sick. Just a thought... might it be that your steering column lock hasn't been unlocked? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jrj2 Posted June 10, 2022 Author Share Posted June 10, 2022 Steering column lock on a 1926 vehicle? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jrj2 Posted June 20, 2022 Author Share Posted June 20, 2022 Good morning, Today, I am in need of a distributor for 1927 Buick Master (actually, I just need the distributor housing that is called the Breaker Cup in the Shop Manual for a 1926 Buick). When attempting to remove the distributor, it came out in pieces due to someone having glued the "cup" together some time in the past. New challenges keep us going. - John - Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hubert_25-25 Posted June 20, 2022 Share Posted June 20, 2022 John, Go thru this posting. It explains what you need to be looking for. Hugh Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jrj2 Posted June 21, 2022 Author Share Posted June 21, 2022 😃 Thank-you so very much! This is incredible info, as usual, once again. We all owe you a huge debt for the knowledge that you share with us. 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hubert_25-25 Posted July 10, 2022 Share Posted July 10, 2022 John, I just happen to have a 1926 Buick Master in my shop, so this is a drawing of the oil dip stick. Hugh 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jrj2 Posted September 20, 2022 Author Share Posted September 20, 2022 ☺️ Good morning, An update on progress ! The last month, or so, has been pretty challenging with "Life" getting in the way. I am finally back to dealing with this distributor issue on that '27. The generator has been on my workbench with me trying to get what was left of the distributor out of the hole where it was seized. After applying lots of patience & perseverance, I succeeded and got it all out without breaking the housing on the generator this morning (YES!). I even have a Delco-Remy 640A distributor (with a steel cup) in pieces on my workbench getting resurrected. It looks like this one is going to work out. I am currently working on the centrifugal weights to free them from the corrosion (the two springs don't even match). I am not yet too sure what I need for points & condenser in this replacement distributor, but I am moving forward thanks to a bit of literature and all of the info I have gotten out of this forum. I am so glad that there are so many people attempting to preserve these pieces of our history and hopefully at least some of our younger generations will continue on with the passion. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hubert_25-25 Posted September 20, 2022 Share Posted September 20, 2022 (edited) Good morning. I am in nearly the exact same place as you. Finally a 640A distributor showed up on Ebay. I also have 80% of another 640Y distributor, but someone cut off the bearing area??? It does have some other good parts in it including some good springs and a good breaker plate. The non rusty stuff is the 640Y. I will post photos as I go thru these distributors. I do need to put heat on the rubbing block hex part to get it to separate from the shaft. The weights are moving some. I really wanted to drive out the pin that holds the gear to the shaft, but that will require a helper. I plan to replace the pin with a roll pin. Edited September 20, 2022 by Hubert_25-25 (see edit history) 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EmTee Posted September 20, 2022 Share Posted September 20, 2022 Note to self: Pick up some Evaporust. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jrj2 Posted September 23, 2022 Author Share Posted September 23, 2022 Wow! This look just like the one I have been spraying with Power Blaster to get it to free up. Three days later, it is starting to move. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hubert_25-25 Posted September 23, 2022 Share Posted September 23, 2022 As Emtee suggests, the best thing to do is to completely submerge this distributor in evaporust. It wont damage the aluminum ID tag. I also wanted to remove the pin from the drive gear, but this pin is not wanting to come out easily on mine. I made an aluminum support so that I do not put pressure on the distributor shaft. Using a 1/8" punch and a heavy mallet, the pin still barely moved. I drilled half of the pin out to provide some relief. It still took many more hammer blows to remove the pin. It did eventually come out. Now I need to source a split pin from McMaster Carr. There is a round head slotted screw in the side of the distributor with a long spring under it. Under the spring is a piece of felt about 3/8" long. This was the reason for wanting to pull the gear pin. I did not want to soak the felt in evaporust, and I wanted to get rid of all the old grease. The last photo is a breakdown in order to help with re-assembly. I also used an engraver on the end of the shaft and on the gear so that I can line up the holes when I go to put these 2 parts back together. Hugh 5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rock10 Posted September 23, 2022 Share Posted September 23, 2022 I tried to get that pin out on my 36 practice distributor. Beating drilling and heating, not a slight budge. ☹️ 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jrj2 Posted December 19, 2022 Author Share Posted December 19, 2022 Hugh, which cap & rotor ended up fitting this distributor ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hubert_25-25 Posted December 19, 2022 Share Posted December 19, 2022 A 640A is a 1928 Buick Distributor. You can get the ignition parts from Bobs Automobilia. Hugh Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jrj2 Posted December 20, 2022 Author Share Posted December 20, 2022 Thank-you. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jrj2 Posted January 19, 2023 Author Share Posted January 19, 2023 (edited) I got what I needed from Bob's Automobilia. The car is now re-assembled, but did not have enough battery power to get it started. This afternoon I will try again. Now I am in need of 10 split rim wheel clamps to go on the studs I am guessing the wheels came from a Standard). I don't even know what to call them to begin searching. Edited March 26, 2023 by jrj2 (see edit history) 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jrj2 Posted March 26, 2023 Author Share Posted March 26, 2023 Good morning to all, I had a dead short in that distributor, that I had put together, but that is now overcome. The car still did not want to start. No challenges would make for a boring life. I am now going through all of the basics to find the troubles. Meantime, I am dismantling a 1928 Standard that got burned down in a barn some years ago. Of course I only have hard parts to salvage, but it is 95 years old, so I expect someone is going to want some of these parts. Last Friday when I removed the radiator, it still had water in it ! I was thinking about AACA this morning while cleaning up some of my mess and just wanted to check in to say Hi! Have an awesome day --- John 5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EmTee Posted March 26, 2023 Share Posted March 26, 2023 Have you done a compression test? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DFeeney Posted March 26, 2023 Share Posted March 26, 2023 (edited) Bring the timing mark to TDC on the firing stroke. Use a 6/12 volt test light. ( They look like the old style ice pick with one wire coming off it.) Put the test light probe on the coil wire at the distributor housing input. When the points are closed the light will not light. Rotate the distributor housing slowly until the light comes on. This is when the coil will fire. Tighten the distributor down. You have set the timing close enough it will run. Then set with a timing light. Before doing this procedure set the points to their correct gap. Edited March 26, 2023 by DFeeney (see edit history) 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jrj2 Posted March 27, 2023 Author Share Posted March 27, 2023 I had not done a compression check because I had gotten the car running again (it had not run in quite a few years) and it ran pretty good before attacking the broken distributor problem. I have used a test light to overcome the short in the replacement distributor that I put together (that turned out to be operator troubles). I have double checked ignition wires and my distributor placement, so far, to make sure that I did not get something crossed up through this adventure. Hopefully, today, I can get over there to verify the points timing and get the motor running again. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DFeeney Posted March 27, 2023 Share Posted March 27, 2023 If you have not checked your vacuum reading at idle you should do so. If nothing else it will tell you things are normal. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EmTee Posted March 28, 2023 Share Posted March 28, 2023 8 hours ago, jrj2 said: I had not done a compression check because I had gotten the car running again (it had not run in quite a few years) and it ran pretty good before attacking the broken distributor problem. I ask simply to rule out (or identify) one or more sticky valves. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jrj2 Posted April 8, 2023 Author Share Posted April 8, 2023 When the car was up & running, I had the vacuum gauge on it and the #'s looked good. Actually, it was impressive. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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