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parts or repairs to Jacox Steering boxes anyone?


Chuck Harvey

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I have a 1920 Paige Glenbrook touring with a Jacox box that is free turning one way, but jams turning it back the other way. I took the round cover off and cleaned it out. It appears that one bronze nut trys  to climb the roller, instead of sliding back as the other moves forward, thus jamming. Anyone know how to solve this?

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I looked out in my stuff and I have one Jacox script column with wheel and another one that is almost the same but doesn't have the Jacox cast into it. I've never worked on them or know anything about them,I could get some pics tomorrow and see if either of them match yours. I don't want to dismantle them,if one matches I would sell the whole thing. The steering wheel would have to come off to ship,which means the quadrant and rods would probably have to come off first,it gets involved. Where are you located? I guess the first thing would be to get them out into the daylight and make sure the wheel turns both directions and go from there. Maybe you'll find what you need from a specialist,holler if not.

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2 hours ago, sagefinds said:

I looked out in my stuff and I have one Jacox script column with wheel and another one that is almost the same but doesn't have the Jacox cast into it. I've never worked on them or know anything about them,I could get some pics tomorrow and see if either of them match yours. I don't want to dismantle them,if one matches I would sell the whole thing. The steering wheel would have to come off to ship,which means the quadrant and rods would probably have to come off first,it gets involved. Where are you located? I guess the first thing would be to get them out into the daylight and make sure the wheel turns both directions and go from there. Maybe you'll find what you need from a specialist,holler if not.

 

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Chuck, 

     The forum works best if you can provide some pictures.  I have no clue as to if your Jacox box is like mine or not.  Here is a link with how I went thru mine.  I did not have an internal part broken.  Is it possible that you do?   

Also, consider buying a "split collar" for pulling the steering wheel to prevent damage.  

 

Hugh

 

https://forums.aaca.org/topic/318656-1921-touring-steering-question/?tab=comments#comment-1810311

 

 

Steering Wheel removal                                                                                      Hugh Leidlein    3-22-19

Correct use of a puller, split collar, and a deep socket for removing the steering wheel. 

-          The ID of the “split collar” should be just larger than the OD of the outer steering tube.  You can buy “split collars” in many sizes.  I keep several sizes around for separating parts that do not have a place to safely grab and have a pulling force applied.  The jaws of the puller should be on the bolts if using a 2 jaw puller.

-          OReily Auto parts has tools that you can borrow.  Shown here is an 8” 2 Jaw puller. 

-          If “very stuck” tighten the puller, then a single hit on the end of the screw puller with a steel mallet may be necessary to get the part to move.

image.png.8ee01c1c8d0bf6f32584f66c910562c3.png

 

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9 hours ago, Chuck Harvey said:

I haven’t used this site before. I hope I’m doing it right. Yes I am interested. I live in Cheyenne Wy. My phone is 307 630 5502. You can email at crayharvey43@gmail.com. Thanks

This may be one for Ripley's,I live in Cheyenne too. I'll call you in a while.

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On 3/31/2020 at 7:52 PM, sagefinds said:

I looked out in my stuff and I have one Jacox script column with wheel and another one that is almost the same but doesn't have the Jacox cast into it. I've never worked on them or know anything about them,I could get some pics tomorrow and see if either of them match yours. I don't want to dismantle them,if one matches I would sell the whole thing. The steering wheel would have to come off to ship,which means the quadrant and rods would probably have to come off first,it gets involved. Where are you located? I guess the first thing would be to get them out into the daylight and make sure the wheel turns both directions and go from there. Maybe you'll find what you need from a specialist,holler if not.

 

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On 4/1/2020 at 12:07 AM, Hubert_25-25 said:

Chuck, 

     The forum works best if you can provide some pictures.  I have no clue as to if your Jacox box is like mine or not.  Here is a link with how I went thru mine.  I did not have an internal part broken.  Is it possible that you do?   

Also, consider buying a "split collar" for pulling the steering wheel to prevent damage.  

 

Hugh

 

https://forums.aaca.org/topic/318656-1921-touring-steering-question/?tab=comments#comment-1810311

 

 

Steering Wheel removal                                                                                      Hugh Leidlein    3-22-19

Correct use of a puller, split collar, and a deep socket for removing the steering wheel. 

-          The ID of the “split collar” should be just larger than the OD of the outer steering tube.  You can buy “split collars” in many sizes.  I keep several sizes around for separating parts that do not have a place to safely grab and have a pulling force applied.  The jaws of the puller should be on the bolts if using a 2 jaw puller.

-          OReily Auto parts has tools that you can borrow.  Shown here is an 8” 2 Jaw puller. 

-          If “very stuck” tighten the puller, then a single hit on the end of the screw puller with a steel mallet may be necessary to get the part to move.

image.png.8ee01c1c8d0bf6f32584f66c910562c3.png

 

 

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This is an attempt to reply to Hubert.  I find this site very difficult to navigate, admittedly I am age 77, so I hope I am doing it right.  I appreciate your comments about the split ring.  I don't believe I have this so will have to look into getting or making one.  The steering box I have appears to be the same as the pictures posted by Mark Kikta for his 1922 Buick.  I purchased a couple of used Jacox boxes from Sagefinds, but they appear to be later, and the parts do not interchange.  I do not know yet if perhaps the whole box could be exchanged into my 1920 Paige.  Any help from you or other folks regarding parts or technical information for these boxes would be appreciated.  Any technical information about the 1920 Paige Glenbrook would also be greatly appreciated.  Thanks, Chuck Harvey

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Chuck, 

   You are doing fine.  Glad that you are working thru the system.  It does take a little time to understand it, but there is so much more material on the internet if you know how to find it.  A 1920 Paige is very rare as you know so help for you will likely come from outside the Paige group.  

   You can find split collars at McMaster Carr, or Amazon or Ebay.  They are cheap.  I have several sized at the house because many of these old car parts have no safe place to put a puller that will not likely damage a part.   

I also focus mainly on the Buick Pre War website, so PM me if you have a problem and do not get a response.  

Have you determined which part you think is damaged or worn?       Hugh

 

.   

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3 hours ago, Hubert_25-25 said:

Chuck, 

   You are doing fine.  Glad that you are working thru the system.  It does take a little time to understand it, but there is so much more material on the internet if you know how to find it.  A 1920 Paige is very rare as you know so help for you will likely come from outside the Paige group.  

   You can find split collars at McMaster Carr, or Amazon or Ebay.  They are cheap.  I have several sized at the house because many of these old car parts have no safe place to put a puller that will not likely damage a part.   

I also focus mainly on the Buick Pre War website, so PM me if you have a problem and do not get a response.  

Have you determined which part you think is damaged or worn?       Hugh

 

.   

 

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Thanks for the response.  The guy who is sending me the parts said that his father had this trouble.  He felt that the rollers on the t-bar were damaged due to pounding from rough roads and possibly lack of lubrication.  I ordered a 1922 Buick shop manual (Ha!) from Faxon's Autoliterature.  Ed Faxon is a friend of mine and a crusty, grumpy old guy like me.  The book implies that the rubbing blocks on the ends of the bronze nuts maybe deformed.  Mine are not flat anymore, they have an obvious curve to them.  The book states that these rubbing blocks can be ground down again and reused.  I would guess they are curved because the rollers have not been turning.  To grind them off very much would seem to increase slack in the box.  Do you or anyone else have experience with this issue?

Thanks again.

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  • 3 weeks later...

The guy that I mentioned above, who was going to send me parts, called himself TJ.  He is obviously a scammer as no parts ever arrived, even though he called me a couple of times after he got the money, why I don't know.  I belong to the Horseless Carriage Club and the Hudson, Essex, Terraplane Club, as well as AACA.   Some of them have complained about being scammed this way.  It seems to me that all this useless security to get on the site does little to protect us.  Anyone can join the club, pretend to be an old car owner and rip us off.  If anyone has any suggestions as to how to be more secure in trading parts or literature with other members safely, I'd like to know.  On a cheerier note, I disassembled his Jaycox box and found that one of the roller pins was busted causing one of the slider nuts to jam.  I manufactured a new pin myself and welded it and the other pin which was loose and probably would have failed.  I manufactured a new gasket for the end cap, and put silicone at the bottom where the stationary tube is after clamping it in place.  I am about to reinstall the box and column in my car, and will put a stack of o-rings between the end of the shaft bearing and the pitman arm.  In sealing up the box this way I feel I can fill it with regular gear lube, as the old stuff in it was dry, hard and not lubricating at all.  Hope this works out well.

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  • 2 weeks later...

To protect yourself, use paypal unless you have dealt with the seller before.  If they can't do paypal, then they can't be trusted and it is at your own risk.  Anytime you post looking for parts, you are inviting the scammers.     

If you encountered a scammer on this website, it is your duty as well to contact the mediator and let them know, and also beneficial to post this persons name so that others are not scammed.

 Hugh 

Edited by Hubert_25-25 (see edit history)
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