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Doors do not line up with body trim 1930 Chr


914bren

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If the body and doors are sound and loose pins replaced..generally you add or remove shims along the body where the body bolts to the  frame,as required.

The shims go between the body and frame top or bewteen the body and running board apron.

They need to be no less then 1/8 up to 3/16"  inch thick of rubber or even hard leather. Layers of cut tire rubbing or old running board matt will do in a pinch ,you can improvise if need be.

The shim shape is usually  in the range of 1-1/2" ×2" square with the bolt hole on the middle.

Start one bolt at a time. with rasing or lower the hinge area first at the cowl  lining up the front door and work back.

The cowl can be pivoted if need be or tilt fore and aft by shiming the front cowl bolt or rear bolt under the door hinge plane instead of raising the whole cowl evenly.

 

Beware door shimming can affect the hood gap and fit.

 

Doing a body alignment from scratch on a" frame off "you start fitting the radiator,hood and cowl line first.

Often playing back and forth as you work to the back of the car..One side at a time or both..

 

Jusy look at the side profile of the car like is was a  wavey bridge and what posts have to go up or down to make it level..

Think where the body are  located and study if you raise this area or lower that to line things up.

 

You will be tightening loosening the bolts dozens of times and they have to be reasonably TIGHT when checking the fit.

Some cars may also need the hinges tweaked (shimmed at the mounts or re- align(re-bend) for best fit.

 

Note: you may have to make some concessions and split the difference here and there.

 

Open cars are ususlly the worst to fiddle with.

 

Good luck!  You can do it!

 

 

 

 

Edited by Flivverking (see edit history)
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My doors are low to my body trim. 1930 Chrysler 66.  Hood fits cowl fine. I tried bending body hinges.  Replaced pins,  if I add shims to body it may make the doors even lower.  Body hinges mount to wood door frame. Does anyone make replacement hinges so I can bend them and then install to see what happens?  Thanks for the great responses 

Edited by 914bren (see edit history)
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When adjusting hinges you need to remove the hinge pins and fit a rod of the same diameter as the hinge pin through the hinges to ensure the hinges all pivot on the same axis.  Otherwise they will bind and loosen as the door is opened.  Once everything is correct the rod is removed and the hinge pins fitted.  You may also have to adjust the packers between the body and the chassis.  That can fix one problem and create another.

It can be a very time consuming job with lots of trial and error. 

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1 hour ago, DavidMc said:

When adjusting hinges you need to remove the hinge pins and fit a rod of the same diameter as the hinge pin through the hinges to ensure the hinges all pivot on the same axis.  Otherwise they will bind and loosen as the door is opened.  Once everything is correct the rod is removed and the hinge pins fitted.  You may also have to adjust the packers between the body and the chassis.  That can fix one problem and create another.

It can be a very time consuming job with lots of trial and error. 

David,

Would you please describe this process in a little more detail? I'm thinking one should place the rod through both hinges, with the door attached. In that case, it not only is time consuming with lots of trial and error, but also is very awkward. Yet I suspect that's the best way to get a perfect fit.

Thanks,

Phil

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Phil,  

 

 

That is correct.   The hinge pins will probably be about 5/16" dia and a 5/16" rod will flex easily and conform to out of alignment hinges so you will need to make sure its free to move and not bending.    You will also need to make sure the hinges are not worn, if they are they need to be sleeved or replaced if new ones are available.  There is no one simple fix but the end result can be very satisfying .  

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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