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64RivieraLife
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In the time period your Riviera falls into with the nailhead engine  there's one basic "Buick Green." The exception is the 1963 Riviera which had a silver engine and the 1966 Riviera which had a red engine.  In 1967 when the nailhead was replaced by the 400,430, and later 455, the color was red.  

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13 minutes ago, RivNut said:

In the time period your Riviera falls into with the nailhead engine  there's one basic "Buick Green." The exception is the 1963 Riviera which had a silver engine and the 1966 Riviera which had a red engine.  In 1967 when the nailhead was replaced by the 400,430, and later 455, the color was red.  

Mines is like a blue when i get a chance ill snap a picture and pos it

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My father-in-law and I are doing a complete restore on his 63 Riviera.  We pulled the engine and doing some research when I saw your post.  The engine is painted the bluish green color and you say it should be silver.  I can't find anywhere to decode the serial number.  Would you know where I can obtain that info?

 

-pbdbDXMlsTmXOVCx4xBAV_GCb3hsCNvOVyBdwLbN9rAKfxjpcsSMHalCE0lEegswzdRHMeMiNwm-2tNwIaz2HV8p8WqxkyxNmB5fXSfg7yr2IS0giH5HCoHOhjI8YDk5umCBAJiYxn-F7koEkVs5Mz8Kus782Q3zCC-MtjGNuCsAjuaGoQJLQR6tifvai0WZKr6PqXRHaYHFVLrtaqpcOLGC70pc_6ccsJkf7i3HoTmRf5El3ZNJt2pnZ7jYUIejDcKsCxpwBedfflujuiVL4_CIu_5gbEbFzKpAm4h-t-tfwGVPTyywenalRNr3ikx-R3mVwQaAdaG7E_wP4RdheFH2nWBagxcymAR31xfXpGIcTxRe6YHQegB4OgZi6g78MKiRyqkKGpTfsDXnPhEOApjNIPItWHEx1-u6oXK6oyJop6VSaJ5dxcOPsNt3Cn73jdnU7Xo-Oza6KTY5r373WtObNRwFPIB_cZ8kus56q1BFn5R9HaVXhAnsxN-Z0_4OwhtElG9k0dbxoPsaG2zi3W4fGZ7SjwZhE35w4XpCDwwxpnrtRrDeZCWxfxP8zuLIq9VNgv9LfaYEJgFihRHXylAMTCdlty3gX9_ksMspX7fEaslqUCCH6wTnzkjAmptmIiBwjwcl5lQ0oJRsV1hkGGKCEdJTPQ2Pj2ZbZApy3yTGiZaoChzFiVaBXOnjL0=w1734-h2312-no?authuser=0

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Bckeye,

 

     The pic you posted is the engine serial number which IF the engine in the car is the original engine to the car it will MATCH the VIN on the top of the cowl on the left (drivers side) of the cowl. NOT the data plate attached to the firewall above the brake booster.  That plate contains the options that were put in the vehicle at the time of assembly of the body at the Fisher Plant.

 

Tom T.

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4 J would indicate that the engine is out of a 1963 LeSabre.  A Riviera engine would be coded J 7.  Every 63 with a nailhead, except the Riviera, would have had the Buick green engine.  Next. Compare the other numbers to your VIN. You should find that there's a match. Then look to the left of the numbers you poster for a two letter code. Would be an upper case J and another letter.  That will be important for your rebuild. Different compression ratios, etc.  Post those letters and we can decode them for you. JR, JS, JT, or JU are your choices.

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Well at least it has the CORRECT crankshaft in it.  One problem out of the way. The '63 LeSabre was a low compression (8-1 or 8.5-1) 2bbl. engine.

I can get you ALL the corect engine parts including Forged pistons.  Off the shelf cast pistons will net you about 8-1 compression IF your lucky.

 

Tom T.

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Here's  a picture from a 63 Chassis manual. Problem is that stated compression ratios are not given, just "low compression" for a couple.  IF by chance the JR standard 2 barrel has less than the stated 10.25, your car will be much happier on today's fuels.

 

IMG_20210113_231709145.thumb.jpg.d011e0e31ba7c8d10f19b5e2da85a8ff.jpg

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All I'm seeing is a big blank space with a little dash inside a circle.  Is everyone else see the pictures?  I was going to look at your Engine Serial Number again and see where your engine was built.  Here's a copy and paste of what I see where there used to be pictures.

 

U_LH9JNZZMkZUb5a44lY9g1iH5Bfk5yrVD4kVzBV6MAsQU-_r0_WHYmvNB5xgZ6fUKdSTbRmGqm2krEIp_1letMrG63VskSeKjCsA7bGLJLD04EXJWufXpVjVxaw7y-yOSZOue9BNOOkPhbLfrVVSlXJF6Lb3VZ0ttSkaL3k7IXQNcyYDHxd9x_MjJExnxy7BujohSP-aqr_4d6G9kmsP9mfZeQx2rATlHxCqaOtAalluU6MIq434yABAWsunOgQlWEMKIhkj0B4FQexPrapIDUVni1ZHy_KorHAxDkWLHcLALX1AlcKQFZXSL0pk2GZ44_RPGajf5QbM4nJ2LNnegdpI3-RXNm5alYwmNIPCbIonFlVO2tHYtBLi-b8R9kz8Xy2IjGArRQKuMUCitoL9goEd5B03MGfsUCQd1E_I-iuIE2NodhtPN5iSr1_s299qEBRYda8xa9z0eYeIw8askty7Uwf2eSbTepR9pa9t_LS3kD9wQvcVgkXOlokie0Y97j6RI95LGCGd2G3jZo7vdw20QJwRXgNdqr-dSUUTf04bqqtAwho2HKKQ34S4XyDkKk98Y1NJ0zXL5wBVlh_VAOjdpgyWcpePlbtN7PIhNRzOfR3ORYVdaHt0q1o41QGm2kiuluDbX4kkR6E6-Dhb1K39MtCIak2CwGjGT0Ks0kvWdTJCJqtU9c1WNYs9Fc=w1734-h2312-no?authuser=0

Edited by RivNut (see edit history)
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3 hours ago, RivNut said:

All I'm seeing is a big blank space with a little dash inside a circle.  Is everyone else see the pictures?  I was going to look at your Engine Serial Number again and see where your engine was built.  Here's a copy and paste of what I see where there used to be pictures.

 

U_LH9JNZZMkZUb5a44lY9g1iH5Bfk5yrVD4kVzBV6MAsQU-_r0_WHYmvNB5xgZ6fUKdSTbRmGqm2krEIp_1letMrG63VskSeKjCsA7bGLJLD04EXJWufXpVjVxaw7y-yOSZOue9BNOOkPhbLfrVVSlXJF6Lb3VZ0ttSkaL3k7IXQNcyYDHxd9x_MjJExnxy7BujohSP-aqr_4d6G9kmsP9mfZeQx2rATlHxCqaOtAalluU6MIq434yABAWsunOgQlWEMKIhkj0B4FQexPrapIDUVni1ZHy_KorHAxDkWLHcLALX1AlcKQFZXSL0pk2GZ44_RPGajf5QbM4nJ2LNnegdpI3-RXNm5alYwmNIPCbIonFlVO2tHYtBLi-b8R9kz8Xy2IjGArRQKuMUCitoL9goEd5B03MGfsUCQd1E_I-iuIE2NodhtPN5iSr1_s299qEBRYda8xa9z0eYeIw8askty7Uwf2eSbTepR9pa9t_LS3kD9wQvcVgkXOlokie0Y97j6RI95LGCGd2G3jZo7vdw20QJwRXgNdqr-dSUUTf04bqqtAwho2HKKQ34S4XyDkKk98Y1NJ0zXL5wBVlh_VAOjdpgyWcpePlbtN7PIhNRzOfR3ORYVdaHt0q1o41QGm2kiuluDbX4kkR6E6-Dhb1K39MtCIak2CwGjGT0Ks0kvWdTJCJqtU9c1WNYs9Fc=w1734-h2312-no?authuser=0

Ed,

It is a little bit weird. If I click on the picture that seems empty on my iPad and use the arrows to go left then after three left arrows I get to the picture of the engine.

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The engine in that picture has definitely been repainted. The overflow bottle and the chrome air cleaner are owner add-ons as well.  What are your plans for the car?

I'll go out on a limb here and say, based on the overflow bottle, that the car has had a tendency to run hot.  An air conditioned car will run hot if, like yours, it is missing the fan shroud.

Edited by RivNut (see edit history)
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Im planning on getting fan shroud this weekend as for motor just go threw and restore it and maybe add a couple bells and whistle to it to spruce it up...ive had car for about two months so far, havent had any over heating issues yet..knock on wood, the ac isnt work i can hear though if i turn it on but isnt blowing air defroster works though ... i wanna give engine bay a clean, any tips or tricks to engine bay cleaning, and any other advice would be very appricated

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The a/c bracket that also mounts the alternator should be green. One of it's mounting bolts is a head bolt that was torqued down when the engine was assemnbled.  No way would you untorque a bolt to mount a bracket.  The bracket that mounts to the back of the compressor is black. It is not mounted with any torqued head bolts.

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  • 2 months later...

The engine in the discussion is being rebuilt at this time.  Would anyone know if the pistons would need to be replaced in order to use todays 91 octane gas?

 

Also, are there any recommendations for best place to obtain rebuild kit?

 

Thanks

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I'll just mention a caution on rebuild kits that contain EVERYTHING for a rebuild.  Most ALL of them will contain a variety of Chinesse parts.  You would be better off searching for the older American made parts.  More than likely will be more costly doing it this way. Can be a task trying to locate some parts, BUT it can be done.

BEFORE you buy ANY parts the engine needs to be torn down completely BEFORE ordering an parts.

 

Tom T.

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Thank you Tom.  The engine has been torn down and is in the hands of a machine shop at this time.  I've reached out to NailheadBuick and enquired about parts.  I just thought I would see if there may be any additional resources.  Also, I definitely am looking to use American made parts. 

The engine is in decent shape with only about 50,000 miles on it.  I know seals will need to be done but I just want to ensure it can run todays fuel when put back together.

 

Shaun

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  • 5 weeks later...

Shaun, What Tom Telesco writes is pretty close to gospel. The Riviera Owners Association recognizes Tom as “Expert”. The ROA experts attest to Tom’s expert experience.

I know this first hand. Tom has worked on my car and made upgrade improvements and all along the far still looks stock. The nuance of the Nailhead makes it different from a small block Chevy rebuild. You don’t want to rebuild an engine with less power than before you took the car in.

For example after the engine is bored you then want to order pistons that fit the hole. Obvious, to all but you want the best you can afford for that bore. I happened to order forged pistons from Tom Telesco. Tom and the engine builder discussed a great plan for rebuild. I can attest my rebuilt engine ( no hot rod) runs as strong as I want. Just passing on my experience and maybe you can use something.

Turbinator

Edited by Turbinator (see edit history)
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