handmedownreatta Posted October 9, 2020 Share Posted October 9, 2020 ive decided to replace my ragged rear speakers with 6x9s using 1990 panels.im assuming the new speakers have to be flat at the front.also do i hook them only to the larger speaker wiring or tie the wiring together from both speakers? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2seater Posted October 9, 2020 Share Posted October 9, 2020 Aren't the rear speakers on an 89 like the door speakers up front? I know the front is an actual tweeter up high and it has a crossover to filter out the lows from the small speaker and I thought the rear was the same? If so, I would believe the main feed wire to the larger speaker would be connected to the 6x9. Is it a coax type or just a bass type? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
handmedownreatta Posted October 10, 2020 Author Share Posted October 10, 2020 On 10/8/2020 at 10:06 PM, 2seater said: Aren't the rear speakers on an 89 like the door speakers up front? I know the front is an actual tweeter up high and it has a crossover to filter out the lows from the small speaker and I thought the rear was the same? If so, I would believe the main feed wire to the larger speaker would be connected to the 6x9. Is it a coax type or just a bass type? i haven't taken it apart yet. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jneth Posted October 30, 2020 Share Posted October 30, 2020 (edited) I have replaced the rear speakers with 6x9s this last summer. I also installed 6's in the doors that fit well. The rear needed some additional cross beams that were simple to put in to support the speakers and drop the faces back to clear the interior panels. 6x9s stick out a bit. The stock system does not use 4 ohm speakers. In fact I have never seen 10 ohm series/parallel anywhere else. I personally, having seen that decided to change out the entire system to more modern components. This made it far easier. A narrow double din fits well with minor mod in the center section where the cassette deck is at and the rear deck underside is perfect for amps. If you just want to replace the fears I would caution that putting in 4 ohm newer speakers may be to low an impedance for the stock system and damage may result. It may be dependant on the load. This is why I upgraded. I am not fond of smoking parts in the cab. Edited October 30, 2020 by Jneth (see edit history) 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
padgett Posted October 30, 2020 Share Posted October 30, 2020 GM used 10 ohm speakers since the early '60s. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Barney Eaton Posted October 30, 2020 Share Posted October 30, 2020 Is there any record of a car speaker setting a car on fire? Always something new to worry about. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
padgett Posted October 30, 2020 Share Posted October 30, 2020 Only if you play Jerry Lee Lewis a lot. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Barney Eaton Posted October 30, 2020 Share Posted October 30, 2020 I now listen to Country and Western........I can relate to the lyrics. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
89REATTAJIM Posted November 1, 2020 Share Posted November 1, 2020 On 10/30/2020 at 10:45 AM, padgett said: Only if you play Jerry Lee Lewis a lot. "Great gonads of fire" Sorry Padgett, just had to do it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jneth Posted November 1, 2020 Share Posted November 1, 2020 10 ohms just seemed rather odd to me as I hadn't had much experience with the pre-80s vehicles. None that the stereo was an issue anyway. I have however seen 4 and 8 ohm quite a bit and, yes, many a smoked "what's that smell" speaker. Dangerous I imagine depending on what is around it. This effect I was able to test empirically in college physics when we studied harmonics and resonanse. The instructor, although appreciating my write up, later regretted not giving range guidelines for the speaker circuit impedance and maximum range for the variables. Learning how to make perfect harmonic resonance cavities, speaker matching, and the flammability if PC AD/DA computer interfaces was a fantastic result. I push the limits to know where they are in reality. Speakers that smoke generally are open circuit 5 seconds at most after shorting. Old amps with new speakers or new amps with old speakers (amp interchanges with stereo} isn't necessarily a problem. As long as the circuit impedance {ohms-wire to wire resistance is close enough for these purposes-rounded to tenths decimal) is in the range of the amp driving the speakers. Mismatches greater than an ohm are going to fail and vary from when it turns on to when the car is sold. So factor in Murphy's law and add how cheap the system is then multiply by system age. If it's using vacuum tubes all bets are off. Finding out the drivers range for stock stereos is a PITA. Newer speakers, newer amps it's on the box or in it every time. So changing stereo/amp (or bypassing to preserve) when upgrading speakers is a good way to safeguard while upgrading the system to make sure the car has a top notch system that more than satisfies the occupants. I feel that is a must on these {my favorite} Reattas and what they deserve. (Opinion) The baddest non Vette sportcar (2seater) of the 80's feels lame if the sound system sounds like a**t efron mismatch of an old separated cone. I am a person that sings along and cranks his stereo. So to me uprading has become second nature upon purchase. RARELY , no, never have I been satisfied with a stock setup. Paper cones can KMA. Thus it breaks down to personal preferences driving (and with a convertible the need for more decibels) and life expectancy of the system. Newer 4 ohm speakers can also be ran in series parallel combinations to quit the desired impedance. In this case a speaker matching impedance calculator simplifies the algebra for those that are not fond of variables in their math. By the way, my 89 has to be the easiest speaker upgrade and hardest stereo upgrade to date. Amps were a snap in the trunk. I ran a fused 8 guage cable, isolated, there for power. It was the expansion of the center cassette deck section that took the most time. Not damaging the cover while expanding 3/8 of an inch took a minute. But the car loves it, doesn't rattle or squeak, whistle or creak, and is audio-isolated so well that it's like a personal concert when driving. Fear of saying to much ends this here but I hope this clarifies the queries and such a bit. Thanks for the info on GM impedance Mr. Padgett. I didn't know that to be sure. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
handmedownreatta Posted November 2, 2020 Author Share Posted November 2, 2020 i mounted a satilite radio where the cassette player was and found that the screen was too hard to see. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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