40-Torpedo Posted December 12, 2019 Share Posted December 12, 2019 I'm wondering if anyone has a photo of a 1928 front motor mount (ring coupler with two bolts that attaches to the snout of the motor) and the crossmember. I am putting a 1928 motor into my 1927 and I am running across some quirks. It seems that possibly the crossmemebr of the 1928 Buick was more flat than that of the 1927 model (both the 28' and my 1927 are Standard Motors) as when I installed it I had to use the 1927 coupler but also the motor was taking a nose dive as my crossmember droops in the center. In order to get the motor to sit properly I had to place a 1 1/2" piece of steel to bring it up to the proper level. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bill - 29 Buick Posted December 12, 2019 Share Posted December 12, 2019 Do the front mount bolts line-up with the frame bolt holes ? On my 29, I had to stretch the rear springs to get the bolt holes to line-up. I chained the rear axle to a post and chained the front to a Jeep and slowly pulled the springs about 4” and the bolts dropped in. Bill McLaughlin Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark Shaw Posted December 12, 2019 Share Posted December 12, 2019 Bill, The rear springs pull the drive train to the rear. My son and I had to use all-thread to pull the bell housing up to the engine when we swapped his 1929 engine for a rebuilt 1930 engine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
40-Torpedo Posted December 12, 2019 Author Share Posted December 12, 2019 So the bolts line up (when using the 1927 nose mount) - the issue is that the motor when bolted to the crossmember at the front drops about 10 degrees. This would cause the fuel for the rear cylinders to have to run uphill. In addition the transmission was hitting the floorboards along with pulling on the e-brake. When I added a 1 1/2" piece of metal (which does not look good at all) to jack the front up was the location when the motor sat level - the shifter (could not go all the way into 1st or 3rd gear as it hit the dash) and the e-brake worked. If anyone has an image of a post 1927 front crossmember I would greatly appreciate it so I can compare. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hubert_25-25 Posted December 12, 2019 Share Posted December 12, 2019 You will know the front of the engine is in the right place if you set your mud guard in and place the radiator shell on top. The crank input should be between these 2 parts. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted December 13, 2019 Share Posted December 13, 2019 2 hours ago, 40-Torpedo said: This would cause the fuel for the rear cylinders to have to run uphill. The fuel/air mixture in the manifold does not "flow", it is drawn by the suction of the pistons, up from the carburetor and through the manifold to the cylinders. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
40-Torpedo Posted December 14, 2019 Author Share Posted December 14, 2019 On 12/12/2019 at 1:39 PM, Hubert_25-25 said: You will know the front of the engine is in the right place if you set your mud guard in and place the radiator shell on top. The crank input should be between these 2 parts. I could not even get the mud guard in place as the snout was too low. I will mock it up this weekend to check. Radiator needs to go in next before I fire it up regardless. Thanks again Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
27donb Posted December 14, 2019 Share Posted December 14, 2019 Sorry for the delay, these are the only pics I took of my front motor mount cross member when my 27-54CC was apart. Hope it helps! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
40-Torpedo Posted December 14, 2019 Author Share Posted December 14, 2019 Thanks Don - this is interesting. Your front motor crossmember is C channel and mine is round tube. After mocking up the mud guard and the radiator this is the amount of shim that I needed in the end... The transmission hits the floorboards and I cant get the boot ring over the transmission this is very frustrating... 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hubert_25-25 Posted December 14, 2019 Share Posted December 14, 2019 (edited) I wonder if someone replaced your front cross member. I have a C shaped channel in my 1925 and Don has it in his 1927. Edited December 14, 2019 by Hubert_25-25 (see edit history) 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dibarlaw Posted December 15, 2019 Share Posted December 15, 2019 What the bay looks like on the 1925 Standard. After cleaned and painted. Regular channel for front cross member same as Hugh and 27donb's. Another thing to contend with is that the 1928 radiators for both the Master and Standard have the crank hole through the bottom tank. Dave Blaufarb's 1928 Standard Sport Touring. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
40-Torpedo Posted December 18, 2019 Author Share Posted December 18, 2019 On 12/14/2019 at 12:38 PM, Hubert_25-25 said: I wonder if someone replaced your front cross member. I have a C shaped channel in my 1925 and Don has it in his 1927. Its possible - but the thing looks factory with the hot rivets and all. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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