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1928 Motor into a 1927 Chassis...


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I'm wondering if anyone has a photo of a 1928 front motor mount (ring coupler with two bolts that attaches to the snout of the motor) and the crossmember. I am putting a 1928 motor into my 1927 and I am running across some quirks. It seems that possibly the crossmemebr of the 1928 Buick was more flat than that of the 1927 model (both the 28' and my 1927 are Standard Motors) as when I installed it I had to use the 1927 coupler but also the motor was taking a nose dive as my crossmember droops in the center. In order to get the motor to sit properly I had to place a 1 1/2" piece of steel to bring it up to the proper level.

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Do the front mount bolts line-up with the frame bolt holes ?  On my 29, I had to stretch the rear springs to get the bolt holes to line-up.

 

I chained the rear axle to a post and chained the front to a Jeep and slowly pulled the springs about 4” and the bolts dropped in. 
 

Bill McLaughlin  

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So the bolts line up (when using the 1927 nose mount) - the issue is that the motor when bolted to the crossmember at the front drops about 10 degrees. This would cause the fuel for the rear cylinders to have to run uphill. In addition the transmission was hitting the floorboards along with pulling on the e-brake. When I added a 1 1/2" piece of metal (which does not look good at all) to jack the front up was the location when the motor sat level - the shifter (could not go all the way into 1st or 3rd gear as it hit the dash) and the e-brake worked. If anyone has an image of a post 1927 front crossmember I would greatly appreciate it so I can compare.  

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2 hours ago, 40-Torpedo said:

This would cause the fuel for the rear cylinders to have to run uphill.

The fuel/air mixture in the manifold does not "flow", it is drawn by the suction of the pistons, up from the carburetor and through the manifold  to the cylinders.

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On 12/12/2019 at 1:39 PM, Hubert_25-25 said:

You will know the front of the engine is in the right place if you set your mud guard in and place the radiator shell on top.  The crank input should be between these 2 parts.   

I could not even get the mud guard in place as the snout was too low. I will mock it up this weekend to check. Radiator needs to go in next before I fire it up regardless. Thanks again

 

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Thanks Don - this is interesting. Your front motor crossmember is C channel and mine is round tube.  After mocking up the mud guard and the radiator this is the amount of shim that I needed in the end... The transmission hits the floorboards and I cant get the boot ring over the transmission this is very frustrating... 

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DSCF6306.thumb.JPG.9a411403e0f3e58bc6e3c728f75f5ff1.JPG

What the bay looks like on the 1925 Standard.

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 After cleaned and painted. Regular channel for front cross member same as Hugh and 27donb's.

 Another thing to contend with is that the 1928 radiators for both the Master and Standard have the crank hole through the bottom tank.

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 Dave Blaufarb's 1928 Standard Sport Touring.

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