Front end alignment

[The Caponemobile]

I have not been around much lately; both my Chrysler and I are fighting old age, and winning.  The engine is now running without spilling gasoline on the barn floor.  Whew!  We (I have mobile friends) are about to adjust the thrust of the master cylinder so that fluid can more readily return to the reservoir when the brakes and fluid are hot (advice I got here), and we have found a shop with a wheel stretcher that can replace the inner tube with the leaking filler neck.  I have two questions:

 

1. where do I find the alignment specifications for my '30 Chrysler 77 sedan (four door)?  

 2.  what is the correct inner tube for my Firestone 550 - 18 tires?  Cocker tires has a tube for 550 - 19 that reviews say will be ok.  The same supplier has a tube for a 550 - 18 tube, but with an "off set" filler neck.  Any advice on which I should use on my wooden wheels?  The hole in the rim looks to be centered, and it is very much larger than the rubber filler necks I have, and are available.  

[Bloo]

Offset just means that the stem is not in the middle. If the hole is in the middle of the rim you don't want offset.

[The Caponemobile]

Thanks!  That solves one question.  Now I can order the tube I need.  Thanks for your help.

 

[StillOutThere]

Alignment specs are tough to find that early!   Shop manual for your model may have them or may not.   What they won't tell you is that adding positve degrees of caster will help keep the car going STRAIGHT but will somewhat increase manual steering effort.   I'm adding 4 degree caster wedges to my '35 Dodge.    An old hot rod friend and engineer says the cars he built always had 9-10 degrees positive caster for the street and 15 degrees pos. caster to go run the straight line at Bonneville !

 

Caster wedges for narrow old leaf springs available from ESPO Springs and Things.

 

 

Edited August 6, 2019 by StillOutThere (see edit history)

[broker-len]

the front end info should be in owner's manual

[Narve N]

My Bonneville veteran buddy said to double the toe-in from factory spec to ease the cars ability to run straight. Worked for me, no noticeable tire wear and car (1929 Series 65) handles superbly in traffic almost like an English sports car through roundabouts. The 29 takes turns a lot better than my 1940 Chrysler, and probably can get past a roundabout at the same speed as the maximum no-squeal speed of my 55 Chrysler.

[Rusty_OToole]

You don't need a lot of caster if you install a steering damper. This is one of the secrets of German car handling, they had a steering damper and low caster. This makes steering easier and more responsive but you need the damper to prevent shimmy.

[The Caponemobile]

Rusty,  thanks for the suggestion.  Now two questions.  Where is a damper installed on a 30 front end, and are such dampers available.  Shimmy has been my principal problem.  

[Guest broker'bob]

I have a 32 Plymouth 4 cylinder    had it for 40 years     I remember taking it from home in NJ to hershy before I checked anything   do not think there were wedges for caster        it ran good       I am finishing a restoration       had the front end off      put it back with no wedges just did the toe in        it seems to track fine     would it ride better with caster  adjustment ?

[JFranklin]

6 hours ago, broker'bob said:

I have a 32 Plymouth 4 cylinder    had it for 40 years     I remember taking it from home in NJ to hershy before I checked anything   do not think there were wedges for caster        it ran good       I am finishing a restoration       had the front end off      put it back with no wedges just did the toe in        it seems to track fine     would it ride better with caster  adjustment ?

You can take it to an alignment shop and see if it is in correct alignment.

[Rusty_OToole]

On 8/8/2019 at 1:30 PM, The Caponemobile said:

Rusty,  thanks for the suggestion.  Now two questions.  Where is a damper installed on a 30 front end, and are such dampers available.  Shimmy has been my principal problem.  

You can buy an add on damper for 4 wheel drive, solid axle pickup trucks but they are bulky. I would try one for a VW beetle or superbeetle, they are slim and less obtrusive. Fasten one end to the tie rod or spindle, the other end to the axle.

 

Edited September 24, 2019 by Rusty_OToole (see edit history)

[Rusty_OToole]

Where they go on the car

 

[The Caponemobile]

First, much thanks to Rusty O'Toole, and others for returning to this subject.  The front end has been low on the list while "we" solved two other problems.  A faulty pressure regulator has been replaced and the new more sensitive one has solved fuel and carburetor problems.  Next week we are going deal with the problem that the return port on the brake master cylinder is not sufficiently open when the brakes get hot in hot weather.  The brakes almost seize, so we need to pull the piston back a little further.  

 

 

[The Caponemobile]

OOOPS AGAIN.  I was trying to make a new paragraph, and managed to post an incomplete comment.  Moving on, we are going to try a sneaky repair for the master cylinder.  There is very little play between the brake pedal and the piston on the cylinder so moving the adjustment nut is not going to accomplish much.  Instead, we are going to loosen or replace the three mounting screws holding the master cylinder to the car frame, and insert eighth inch shims between the face of the cylinder and the frame.  This will move the cylinder forward presumably the right amount.  The piston rod can be adjusted forward if the shims make too much correction.

 

I should add that "we" is several friends in our club who are helping me with the car.  I have become disabled, temporarily I hope, and it is times like this when you know who your friends are.  It is hard to adequately express my appreciation for their time and kindness.  I hope others on this list are a lucky.