Daves1940Buick56S Posted February 14, 2019 Share Posted February 14, 2019 I am in the process of pulling the dash, and I am a bit stuck on the radio knobs. On Larry D's 1937 radio they very wisely used set screws, on my '38 all I see is one small slot. I have tried feeling around in there with a small screwdriver to see if there is a small catch or something, but no joy. Anyone know about this? Cheers, Dave Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dibarlaw Posted February 15, 2019 Share Posted February 15, 2019 Dave : I wonder if the shafts are knurled and one only needs to pull them off? I know scary, right! The original knobs do shrink and if you try to lever them off you may end up with crumbs. They may be replacements as they were available in the 1980s. It looks to have a new felt beneath. So Columbus took a chance.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DonMicheletti Posted February 15, 2019 Share Posted February 15, 2019 Original knobs just have a small flar spring that grips the flat on the saft. They just pull straight off. That grove might be to get a small screwdriver an help pry the knob off. The setscrew knobs are replacements 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
neil morse Posted February 15, 2019 Share Posted February 15, 2019 On the '41, the knobs have the same kind of slot as the one shown in your photo. The knobs are held on by a spring, as Don describes. You reach in with a small screwdriver and push the spring down. This should release the knob. I don't have any photos from my car, but I copied the photos below from an Ebay ad. The photos aren't too good, but you can see how it works. The springs on your knobs might be rusted and require a little extra persuasion to get off. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daves1940Buick56S Posted February 16, 2019 Author Share Posted February 16, 2019 Got 'em off. I just put a large flat blade screwdriver behind the felt washer at the slot and they came right off. Now, the light switch. Considering it's difficult to get a finger in there, how do you get the switch shaft released? Cheers, Dave Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary W Posted February 16, 2019 Share Posted February 16, 2019 (edited) The light switch isn't difficult. Pull the rod out, (as if turning on the lights) Then you can simply push in on the spring from the steering wheel side of the switch and the rod slides right out. A 3/16" allen wrench is used to remove the dash sleeve and release the entire light switch from the dash Here's the book. The picture on top of the right column is the actual orientation when installed in the dash. Access the spring from the steering wheel side. Close up. The top diagram is the actual orientation, and the bottom diagram shows the spring engaged with the pull rod. I included this because you can see the spring pulled out, (lights on) almost touching the dash mounting. But you get an idea of what you are feeling for. And this is with the rod engaged in the spring. Just push in on those two small rivets there and it slides right off the rod. Gary Edited February 16, 2019 by Gary W (see edit history) 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jack Worstell Posted February 16, 2019 Share Posted February 16, 2019 Fig 12-36 above shows that there are 12 terminals on the switch. And the photo shows three triangular sets of contacts ( three contact points on each triangle.) for a total of 9 contact points. Question does anyone know, for each of the three positions of the pull knob on the switch, which of the 12 terminals show continuity with each other ?? And....of all of the 12 terminals....is any of the 12 "hot" no matter which of the three positions the pull knob is in ? There have been plenty of discussions about this switch but I've never seen the answers to these two questions posted. Jack Worstell jlwmaster@aol.com Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary W Posted February 16, 2019 Share Posted February 16, 2019 Jack: The "always hot" terminals are: I had to resize, but #10 and #1 are directly connected to the thermo breaker, and are always hot. With the feed wire going into the top terminal, there are four terminals that are always hot. As are the two upper terminals that are on the thermo breaker unit as well. Gary Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jack Worstell Posted February 16, 2019 Share Posted February 16, 2019 Thanks Gary. My buddy wanted me to wire his dash lights ( 1937 Special) such that they would come on whenever the headlight knob was pulled out to any of the three positions. From your reply....I'd say that this cannot be done....there is no terminal that is always hot no matter which of the three positions ( the terminals that are hot when the knob is pushed all of the way in can't be used or the dash lights would always be on even when the car was parked} …….…..Am I reading your reply correctly ?……….. Also....do you have the answer to the second question I posed in my initial post ? Thanks Jack Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jack Worstell Posted February 16, 2019 Share Posted February 16, 2019 Gary FOOTNOTE....when I say "three positions" I;m not including "off" What I am trying to say is these three: "park" "conventional" "passing" 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary W Posted February 16, 2019 Share Posted February 16, 2019 (edited) Gotcha. So, Positions 10 and 1 are ALWAYS LIVE, regardless of dash knob position. It feeds your brake light switch so it has to be live regardless of dash knob position. Position #5 has power in all three positions. This #5 is where you wire your tail lights, and they come on in all three positions, OFF when dash knob is off. Position # 11 has power in dash position 2 and 3. (conventional and passing). Not "0" off or position "1" park. This position feeds the foot switch. Position #9 has power in dash position 3 only. (passing). Edited February 16, 2019 by Gary W (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DonMicheletti Posted February 16, 2019 Share Posted February 16, 2019 I cant believe wahat a PITA this switch can be. God help you if it flies apart when trying to clean it - as happened to me. I connected the dash and map light feed to the brake circuit so I wouldnt forget and leave them on leaving me with a dead battery if wired per schematic. I put a stop on my switch so it only comes out 2 clicks and that does away with the cross eye issue. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jack Worstell Posted February 16, 2019 Share Posted February 16, 2019 Gary...thanks. That's what I what to know. I'll wire the dash lights to terminal #5 and then when the headlight switch is in' any of the three "operating" positions then the dash lights will be on. Jack 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jack Worstell Posted February 16, 2019 Share Posted February 16, 2019 Don Yes it is a PITA. I don't know why GM engineers ever bothered with this. Far too much trouble for so little benefit. A waste. The "cross beam" feature especially caused confusion But since this is how the Buick came from the factory....we'll wade thru it. Jack Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DonMicheletti Posted February 17, 2019 Share Posted February 17, 2019 Jack, I undersatnd tour approach fully. My Bad. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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