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41 Packard polarity problem


Jacksoncage

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3 hours ago, Jacksoncage said:

Was hoping to just get it out the garage so I can work on it...they probably are frozen I don’t have much room to work on where it is..if wheels are stuck can I remove and hammer to try and break them free?

 

Absolutely. What we are saying having some kind of pedal just to get it out of the garage and into a place where you have room is a fine place to start.  It is almost impossible to repair brakes in a tight narrow garage. You need 3-5 feet on the side to be able to work down there. 

What we have all seen are novice collectors who think that having a solid pedal is ALL you need and then they go on to other things and eventually have a serious failure months later when they thought that everything was already fixed. 

 

FYI - Removing (stuck) wheels and drums is different from having stuck wheel cylinders. When you get there, tell us what you are facing and we will tell you more. 

 

One step at a time, do things properly and don't rush. Despite what they show on TV car repair is NOT a timed event and don't set hard deadlines for yourself. 😉

Edited by m-mman (see edit history)
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Ok update..wheels are turning freely....and Brakes are working when I bumped engine to test..probably need replacing but enough to get me outside.but as I tried to put it in gear it instantly grinded on flywheel...all gears grind and won’t go into gear..it was shifting smoothly without the engine started..I can get under and remove inspection plate for a look I was advised how to go about freeing the clutch disk and plate but want to make sure that is the issue..the clutch has a lot of play but I remember it being like that many years ago without the grinding and worked fine..would a rusted and frozen disc cause the grinding? Any help appreciated.. 

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Frozen clutch disc again...cold damp weather?.

With the engine off... wheels locked/blocked...  put it in 3rd... push clutch in.... try cranking over starter.... if the disc was the issue it should quickly break free.

Heat, moisture, freezing can stick a clutch disc if the engine didn't get hot enough to heat soak all parts.

Edited by c49er (see edit history)
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What you describe are the symptoms of a stuck clutch.  Yet you say it was working a few days ago. Try warming up the motor again, this time if it frees up try revving the engine a little and slipping the clutch for a few seconds to polish off any rust or oil. You could also try spraying some brake clean spray up into the clutch.

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Thanks will try on Sunday..when I started on car couple weekends ago...it was hard to shift car into neutral...I had to really force it...then when got it running again..I let it run for 10:minutes and shut it down.. then I noticed it was shifting smoothly into any gear but engine was off.  After getting it ready to move, several days later,  I started it up and the grinding began when trying to move it into gear....it was not close to going in gear and did not want to break flywheel....I will let it run for some time Sunday before I get under the car and see what happens..thanks all

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When you have a stuck clutch and break it free, most times it's stuck because of rust from the flywheel and pressure plate have transferred into the fibers of the clutch disc friction facings. That impregnated rust causes the fibers of the friction facings to swell and be thicker than they were. 

 

Clutch discs work on only a few thousands of inch clearance needed to shift without grinding gears. That little bit of added thickness from rust swollen fibers makes the disc drag and grind gears when you put the pedal down.. I see the rust lumps stuck into some of the discs I get in to rebuild.

 

If it was stuck because of rust, as mentioned, when the car is put back into use those high spots will wear off the disc and it gets easier to shift without grinding.  Try slipping the clutch a  few seconds at a time and see if that reduces the dragging when shifting.

 

Paul 

Edited by PFitz (see edit history)
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