Jacksoncage

Thanks will try on Sunday..when I started on car couple weekends ago...it was hard to shift car into neutral...I had to really force it...then when got it running again..I let it run for 10:minutes and shut it down.. then I noticed it was shifting smoothly into any gear but engine was off. After getting it ready to move, several days later, I started it up and the grinding began when trying to move it into gear....it was not close to going in gear and did not want to break flywheel....I will let it run for some time Sunday before I get under the car and see what happens..thanks all

Ok update..wheels are turning freely....and Brakes are working when I bumped engine to test..probably need replacing but enough to get me outside.but as I tried to put it in gear it instantly grinded on flywheel...all gears grind and won’t go into gear..it was shifting smoothly without the engine started..I can get under and remove inspection plate for a look I was advised how to go about freeing the clutch disk and plate but want to make sure that is the issue..the clutch has a lot of play but I remember it being like that many years ago without the grinding and worked fine..would a rusted and frozen disc cause the grinding? Any help appreciated..

Was hoping to just get it out the garage so I can work on it...they probably are frozen I don’t have much room to work on where it is..if wheelscare stuck can I remove and hammer to try and break them free?

Thanks as for the brakes the reservoir was empty...and pedal had 0 resistance right to floor...filled master cylinder and bled all 4 brakes the cylinder and all the lines appear to be in good shape the pressure built up great and they feel good but have no idea what kind of shape the linings and springs are in...have not tested them yet as I’m in a tight garage and the snowstorm hit right when I was finishing I did not want to get into pulling drums where the car sits now also I noticed the emergency brake cable has frayed down to a single strand as it was running through a sharp hole drilled in battery box..I’m going to have to replace that when I do rear brakes I assume?

Idled car today for bout 15 minutes to warm up before tackling clutch and it just released on its own! Shifts smooth....going to try and take it out on road Sunday..thanks for all the help everybody definitely saved me money!!

Thanks...you were right...the firing order was correct when I traced back each wire to distr. car is running great for sitting 15 yrs. bled brakes today as the pedal went to floor..master cylinder seems ok. Now that I have brakes I’m going to tackle the clutch tomorrow.. will follow ur direction and let u know..really appreciate the help!

Ok thanks when u say turn the engine..is that manually or with starter and do that with knife in place or work the knife and then remove and turn engine?

Thanks...I will check tmrw car is in storage...hopefully there is a plate I can open...I think maybe the firing order may be correct...I was assuming the distributor could only be in the position that it is in my old diagram...I have been told tonight that the position of my distributor may be different thus the numbers on diagram could not be accurate...I’m going to check the sequence they are in from cylinders back to dist tmrw and see if it matches sequence but in another position tks again let u know

Got new points and condenser in today...started right up...seems to be running fine but the firing sequence is incorrect on 4 of the plugs? Should I correct them or leave it alone. Also I can tell,the clutch is frozen...any ideas on that issue! I can forcefully get it in gear but it jumps with clutch pedal depressed..I have been keeping it in neutral while running engine...also,the radiator fluid that was leaking seems to have stopped once running..I filled it up before trying to start it and no,leaks now? Thanks for all the help

No that’s incorrect alternator was negative ground...standard...I meant it was being fed through positive for power...thanks though that would not have been good!

Thanks again...this diagram is much clearer than the one I have....I will keep posting progress with the advice given..this is a very helpful forum!

You were right! After long day today this is what I’ve learned...it does have what appears to be standard Delco positive ground alternator...so I hooked up battery cables negative ground. After changing some fuses and full battery charge most things are getting power...starter was not working well...determined I had really bad ground voltage from old cable...changed that out and getting great starting power now. Points were damaged beyond repair..so got new points and condenser and hope to install tmrw and pray for spark...getting gas to carb. Bad news is radiator fluid dripping out of the water pump somewhere behind pulleys when turning over engine maybe dried out gasket? Also I think the firing order is out out of sequence with what I see on spec wiring diagram. Could that be possible looks like two are in the wrong spot...I know it ran 20 yrs ago but somebody may have messed up the sequence as the distributor is original Autolite. Any help with this and points gap would be great..glad I came to this forum!!

Thanks I will look at it tmrw hope to,figure it out

Thanks for all the help.. I am going to work on the car tmrw and get back to you..there is also a 2-4 gauge running from battery side of starter to the regulator box where it’s tied into two other wires exiting the regulator...if the alternator can be identified as positive or negative ground that would be my best way of knowing...I’m assuming its negative ground ....under the dash is all required..very little old wiring existing at all...the is also,an installed series of modern fuses boxed and mounted on inner fender and there is a new battery voltage gauge installed on the dash...so I think,it is negative ground but the ignition coil is definitely 6 volt and does not looked disturbed so the negative backside of coil is running to ignition

Thought of that they are not tks though

help with polarity 41 Packard conversion have 41 Packard converted that was 6 volt positive ground and changed to 12 volt with alternator using two 6 volt batteries in series also has a lead off the batteries..not ground or starter leads..going to maybe a 6 volt area? Anyway I don’t know if it is still positive ground or negative ground as the batteries were not in it. Is there any way to tell? The old 6 volt coil is still there with armored cable running to ignition from back of coil...and does not appeared to be altered..I thought the coil had to be reversed but it does not appear that it was any help would be appreciated