1939 Buick Special in Alaska

[Naberville3]

I feel lucky as can be to have stumbled accross the forum. I just rescued a 39 Buick special from the woods a bit out of town last July. Was restored in the 80's and had been parked since 98 following a crash I believe. Not huge damage. I think they just ran over something. Bumpers cracked down the middle, driver front fenders dented and folded up, might need replacing, sway bar link snapped, and I think the bell housing was whacked and then removed. Found a new one in back seat. And I think either the trans or the linkage was damaged as it won't shift out of gear. The shifter moves freely but it remains in gear. Other than that she's in grreeaaat shape considering. I will have to deal with surface rust in the trunk and floor but the interior is in good shape(though not original). And she's like 99% complete. Only missing door lock knobs, a gas cap, and the spark plug wire cover. Work starts in January when I get to use my brothers garage. Till then I'm afraid she's stuck under a tarp in the fridgid winter's of Alaska. 

 

[Gary W]

Good Luck with it!

 

I recently finished a '37 from the frame up, and hopefully some of my photos can help you with the '39.  A lot of the disassembly / reassembly techniques translate through the years.

.

You found a great forum indeed!  These guys are amazing and were a priceless source of information throughout my restoration journey.

 

Gary

[39BuickEight]

Thanks for posting from AK!  That’s one of the 7 states I haven’t been to yet.  Check out Gary’s restoration too.  The techniques and ideas he describes and documents are very applicable to ‘39’s as well, plus he is a much better craftsman than I.  

 

My car is back at the painter for a few final touch ups and for the wheels to be painted red.  I bought material at Michaels to finish up the interior.  That is my next, and final, big project.

[MrEarl]

@Naberville3  I have split your post off from the 1939 Buick Restoration thread to enable you to carry on with telling more about your great find. Welcome aboard!!!

[1939_Buick]

Welcome to 39 Buick's 😊

Where is AS are you? (I have been to Alaska)

From a private message

 

Quote

Hi I recently rescued a 1939 Buick special that had been sitting for 20 years following a small accident that may have damaged the transmission as the shifter is free and moves but the trans won't come out of gear. Likely a linkage issue internally or externally. I haven't yet been able to inspect it or find out exactly what is wrong with it. But if worst comes to worst would it be possible to swap a trans from a 1950's Buick and or engine as well if it comes to it? As that's the only other Buick I can find for sale in the middle of nowhere that is Alaska.

 

1939 transmission's are 1 year only design and nothing else will swap. The gear change linkage system is a 1 year only design. That ** cable was only used in 1939. Some internal parts are common with other years, but most are not. Take the top cover off the transmission (5 bolts) and have a look. Also possible/probable the shifting linkage/cable system is damaged or worn. 

 

1939's also have a small short drive shaft after the transmission, that no other Buick's do.  1939 diff's are also a 1 year only design.

 

1950 engine's will fit if you use the '39 front mount plate. 1948 Buick went to side front engine mounts, but with the '39 front plate these are not used.  If the 1950 engine is for a Dynaflow auto the crankshaft is different. Can be machined-modified for use with standard 3 speed transmission.

 

The spark plug wire cover is often removed, as newish longer plugs can short out when touching the metal cover.

 

Edited December 16, 2018 by 1939_Buick (see edit history)

[Guest]

On 12/15/2018 at 6:12 AM, Naberville3 said:

I feel lucky as can be to have stumbled accross the forum. I just rescued a 39 Buick special from the woods a bit out of town last July. Was restored in the 80's and had been parked since 98 following a crash I believe. Not huge damage. I think they just ran over something. Bumpers cracked down the middle, driver front fenders dented and folded up, might need replacing, sway bar link snapped, and I think the bell housing was whacked and then removed. Found a new one in back seat. And I think either the trans or the linkage was damaged as it won't shift out of gear. The shifter moves freely but it remains in gear. Other than that she's in grreeaaat shape considering. I will have to deal with surface rust in the trunk and floor but the interior is in good shape(though not original). And she's like 99% complete. Only missing door lock knobs, a gas cap, and the spark plug wire cover. Work starts in January when I get to use my brothers garage. Till then I'm afraid she's stuck under a tarp in the fridgid winter's of Alaska. 

 

It looks as though the fog lights are mounted in the headlight adjustment holes. Trickee! Doubled up on fender lights to have front turn signals I suspect. Looks like a sealed beam headlight conversion. Cool find! Interesting if the "back story" of the find is shared! Maybe? Phun stuff.

[Naberville3]

It was an Arizona car, owned by a family for three generations. Restored in the 80's and driven up here to AK. She was sold in 95 to an older gentlemen who I believe ran something over and damaged the driver front fender and hit the trans. It no longer shifts out of gear. I believe they had started some work on it at the time but the owner then passed away and it was auctioned off in 98 to the family i bought it from. They knew nothing about the car. They had bought it to be a project for their kids to fix up and drive to prom. But they literally didn't touch a single thing on it. And eventually left it outside where you see it sitting there for the next 15 years. I first saw it ohh.. sometime last winter. And didn't think much of it. At the time the most I could afford was a fancy dinner at Subway. Come July I happened to drive by again. Pulled over. Took a picture of it through the woods. Could only identify it as a GM car from the side through the trees. Obsessed over the picture for about a week. And on my weekend went and bought a tarp. Went over and asked if I could tarp their beautiful car. And 2 days later I was back with 4000$ and dragged her home. Found brand new license plates and registration for 95 which is how I managed to contact the original family that owned the car. And I just now now I did my first bit of work on it. Pulled the carb off at 2am in the dead of winter because it felt like a warm night to do it. (-1f). Is there any info you guys can give me on the carb and where to find a rebuild kit for it? Also any Info on the air filter too as I intend to restore it as well over the winter while I wait for the snow to melt and me and my brother get to start work getting her running and driving again. 

Edited December 18, 2018 by Naberville3 (see edit history)

[Naberville3]

The carb is a Carter WCD but there is no carb tag so I'm gonna have to take her apart this Wednesday and figure it out by comparing gaskets to every carter kit.

[Naberville3]

The interior of the car was a major selling point for me. (I ssuuuuuuucccckkk at sewing)

[Naberville3]

[Naberville3]

[Naberville3]

[Naberville3]

Also neat to know the fogs really aren't meant to be there. I kinds figured as I cannot find a single Buick online with similar light set up. But ya know.. it's sexy as shit and the man who did it had vision. Ill probably rewire them as turn signals as I have no need for fog lights nor would they do much good at that height. 

 

 

[39BuickEight]

It even has the running board trim, nice!  That's the most difficult part to find on these.

[pont35cpe]

1 hour ago, Naberville3 said:

The carb is a Carter WCD but there is no carb tag so I'm gonna have to take her apart this Wednesday and figure it out by comparing gaskets to every carter kit.

There is another way to tell what WCD you have. On the bottom flat gasket surface, clean real good and you should find a 3digit number. Jon (carbking) AACA member can tell you exactly what you have, he also has the ethanol friendly rebuild kits.

[Gary W]

Here's a thread from 2012:

The third response down is from Jon the Carb King.  He is very very knowledgeable and will steer you right. I'm speaking from first hand experience.

His contact information is at the bottom of his post:

 

 

[Naberville3]

6 hours ago, 39BuickEight said:

It even has the running board trim, nice!  That's the most difficult part to find on these.

I dont believe the running boards trim is original as they are a bitlonger than the actual running boards. 

[1939_Buick]

Carter 419S & Carter 440S were used by Buick. The carb does not look to have the vacuum switch for starting so may be off something else, which is OK.  Buick's had a feature where you stamped on the accelerator and the car started. But is often bypassed with a manual switch.

 

The grilles look to be unmatched.  Grilles have 2 version with different number of vertical cars (45 & 39).  Later grilles has fewer bars and 3 horizontal. Early grilles have more vertical  bars and 1 horizontal.

 

Your car the desirable rareish option of side parking fender lights. They sell for good money.  My understanding is you can get a 2 filament bulb holder and then use for indicator & park. 1939 was the first year of flashing indicator, but only at the back (centre red lens)

 

Do you have the air filter assembly?  2 versions of air filter. 1 is a heavy duty oil bath.  The more common is an oil soaked copper mesh

 

Download the 1942 Buick shop manual. All of it section by section. The pdf link does not work.

http://www.oldcarmanualproject.com/manuals/Buick/1942/Shop Manual/

It is very comprehensive and has information that can be used with all straight 8’s.

It has more information than was included in older “Shop Manuals” before 1942-41

 

The best source of pre war Buick parts is Dave Tacheny in Champlin, MN. He specializes in 1936-1941 Buick parts. He is old school:- no email. The best way to contact him is to call him between 4 and 7 pm Central at 763-427 3460. You can also write him a letter. His address is 11949 Oregon Ave N., Champlin, MN 55316. 

http://forums.aaca.org/topic/206688-dave-tachney/

 

 

Edited December 19, 2018 by 1939_Buick (see edit history)

[Naberville3]

Well it's been a long winter and it still isn't even over yet. But me and my older brother just towed the 39 to my godfathers garage today where we have her up on jack stands. Gearing up for a long summer of work. I pulled the plugs this week and oiled the cylinders. The crank turns easily by hand. But transmission is even more questionable when I got underneath and discovered there really isn't anything wrong with the linkage. She did seem to shift into neutral and wasn't spinning the motor. But I'm sure she needs a rebuild. And while she's up on Jack's I messed with all the tires. Joints seem okay but the rear diff feels off. Might be putting a battery in today and seeing what works and what catches fire. Carbs been rebuilt and reinstalled.

[Naberville3]

[Tom_S]

There is a 419s carb with working starter switch for sale on the Buick Buy/Sale forum now. 

[Naberville3]

Me and my brother did several compression tests and rounds of ATF in the cylindersm managed to regain full compression in cylinder 8 but it turns out we're getting leakage out of the valves. Decision was made that if we're going to pull and refresh the head we might as well pull and refresh the whole motor. So I've been busy taking the front of the Buick off. Next weekend were going to pressure wash the engine and suspension and hopefully pull the head. 

[Naberville3]

[Naberville3]

So the current plan is to take out and tear down the motor and send it to the machine shop to be cleaned and planed and more than likely have a valve job done. Rebuild front suspension and brakes and rewire the car. Clean, repair, and repaint all front end panels and pieces. Remove interior and deal with surface rust in the floor. And then reseal all the doors and windows. New glass for windshield and pass rear. 

[Naberville3]

Also the frame is bent on the driver front rail just ahead of the front suspension. Only affecting the sway bar and bumper mount. The bumper is also bent in the middle. I don't think it will be necessary to straighten it. Just needs to be rewelded as it's cracked and I'll just change the bumper and sway bar mounts. 

 

Edited March 30, 2019 by Naberville3 (see edit history)

[Bob H]

Greetings: Thought I would add my name to the great list of people offering support with 1939 Buick cars. Acquired my 1939 Special convertible coupe in 2013 and am currently in the final assembly stage of a meticulous frame-off nut and bolt restoration. Glad to help with any question that you may have.

 

Also, I have acquired a ton of extra 1939 parts including a Special 4 door sedan parts car. Have most new sedan glass and new Steele weatherstripping for sedan. Rebuilt my transmission plus one for a friend and have a modest stock of transmission parts along with current experience. Too other many parts to list here, just ask if you need anything.

 

FYI we are in Northwestern Oregon state about 3 hours down the interstate from Seattle. Stop by if you are in the neighborhood! Bob H

[gcheris]

Hi,

Thanks for your willingness to help others!  Maybe you could help me identify a part for my '39 4-dr Special.  There is a bracket that mounts under the front fender thru the headlight mounting plate.  The holes are large and I'm trying to figure out what goes there. I am suspecting maybe some type of rubber pad.  The only thing I found was on Bob's Automobilia. It is listed as a 'fender well cage nut'.  You can see it here - https://bobsautomobilia.com/hardware/fender-well-cage-nut-.-cn-332/.  Am I on the right track.  If you have a photo of what goes there I'd appreciate it.

 

Thanks,

Gary

[Bob H]

Gary: Not sure at all what you need but have attached a couple of pictures showing the headlight mounting set up, one from underneath and the other from the top. The headlight back-up plate is held to the support arm by a large diameter, short carriage bolt. The plate is attached to the sheet metal with 1/4" bolts evident in the top photo. The wiring goes through the big hole and the headlight mounting studs through the other three holes. Bob H