vette-kid Posted December 1, 2018 Share Posted December 1, 2018 Hello everyone, its been a while since I have posted here. Im trying to refocus some attention back on the 36 and we have run into a few questions. The pedals and dust boots all need replacing as they are worn and torn and generally non functional. What im having a hard time determining is what the color should actually be on these items. All of the rubber in it now is brown, with the exception of the starter pedal (replaced by me a while ago). From what I can tell in google pictures of restored cars (hard to see most as most don't exactly take pictures of the floor board) they seem to be brown as well. However, we are having a VERY hard time finding everything in brown. I cannot find the accelerator pedal and the shift boot. Several are only available in brown from Steele rubber, who charges a SIGNIFICANT premium (seriously, $144 for the shifter boot!!!???) and the entire package with brown parts only available there will cost well over $400 for just the pedals and boots, plus the steering shaft grommet. Can someone confirm that brown is the correct color? And does anyone have any good sources for these parts? We are trying to stay as correct as we can. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
broker-len Posted December 1, 2018 Share Posted December 1, 2018 I have a 36 P2 I have black matt and peddle rubber but I understand that it should be Brown as you say but not that important to me Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vette-kid Posted December 1, 2018 Author Share Posted December 1, 2018 6 minutes ago, broker-len said: I have a 36 P2 I have black matt and peddle rubber but I understand that it should be Brown as you say but not that important to me Thanks for the reply. I probably wouldn't bother changing them if they were functional, but since they need replacing anyway I'd like to find the right color Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
broker-len Posted December 1, 2018 Share Posted December 1, 2018 there used to be some one in plymouth club that made the matts available in brown Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JACK M Posted December 1, 2018 Share Posted December 1, 2018 Steele has the best quality if all the rubber suppliers I have tried. I bought a simple fender grommet tht surrounds the fuel fill from another supplier and in two years it was dried out and cracked. Bought the same from Steele and it still looks great after 25 years. So, if you plan on keeping the car don't be afraid to buy the best. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted December 3, 2018 Share Posted December 3, 2018 I think Andy Bernbaum carries them in both colors. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JACK M Posted December 3, 2018 Share Posted December 3, 2018 13 hours ago, GregLaR said: I think Andy Bernbaum carries them in both colors. I think they changed hands within the last few years. Maybe their stuff is better now. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spinneyhill Posted December 3, 2018 Share Posted December 3, 2018 2 hours ago, JACK M said: I think they changed hands within the last few years. Maybe their stuff is better now. Yes. And if my experiences with them on the 'phone are anything to go by, I doubt there has been improvement. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vette-kid Posted December 4, 2018 Author Share Posted December 4, 2018 20 hours ago, GregLaR said: I think Andy Bernbaum carries them in both colors. They have some, but not all of what I need. They do not have the brake or clutch. In fact the only thing they lost in both colors is the starter pedal. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jpage Posted December 5, 2018 Share Posted December 5, 2018 I wouldn't worry about the color of the pedal seals as they are behind the toeboard and really can't be seen. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted December 6, 2018 Share Posted December 6, 2018 On 12/3/2018 at 11:49 AM, Spinneyhill said: Yes. And if my experiences with them on the 'phone are anything to go by, I doubt there has been improvement. I kind of get what you're saying. I deal with them a fair amount, I've spent several $K, and even after all this time the guy I usually get on the phone (who will remain nameless here) generally acts like a DMV employee who's doing me a huge favor by even talking with me and taking my money. I'm always polite, friendly and call him by name. All to know avail. He's just not a very friendly guy. Knowledgable, yes. Friendly? No. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
36splod Posted December 14, 2018 Share Posted December 14, 2018 I have a 36 P2 and have researched some of this topic as well. I have the 36 master parts list and it shows different part numbers for the P1 and P2 pedal pads but there is no indication of difference as to color. I'm just guessing that the P1 would be black and P2 brown. Bernbaum doesn't have all the rubber in any color so I just got a dust cap for the top of the trans tower that doesn't fit or would need a bucket of KY to get it all the way down there. I got the firewall rubber grommets and a trans boot from Steele and there is no way that boot is going to fit unless I can double its size. I agree it's a can of worms trying to get good right reproduction parts for these cars! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vette-kid Posted July 8, 2019 Author Share Posted July 8, 2019 That's too bad to hear. I'm still trying to piece together the right parts. We need all be firewall/floorboard rubber. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jpage Posted July 10, 2019 Share Posted July 10, 2019 What else do you need? Steele Rubber is still the best bet but their prices are outlandish and some don't fit as well as one would like. The shifter boot can be heated in hot water to let it stretch a bit as the hole is pretty tight.I bought a set of rear qter. window seals from Steele and swore at first that they wouldn't fit. Had to work on them awhile but they fit fairly well but did have to make some cuts where the rubber puckered. I think overall, that their parts will do a better job than most. I don't know why the colors differences but I'm not sure that's really important as most folks won't even be aware. If your window channels are worn out, I rebuild those for the '36 Dodges and Plymouths and some other years. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spinneyhill Posted July 10, 2019 Share Posted July 10, 2019 Water will lubricate the rubber on fitting, too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vette-kid Posted July 10, 2019 Author Share Posted July 10, 2019 (edited) Boots, pedals and seals for the front floorboard right now. I think the only things we have found are the steering column seal and the shift knob in brown. Edited July 12, 2019 by vette-kid (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jpage Posted July 11, 2019 Share Posted July 11, 2019 I just bought a black shift knob from NAPA for less than $10. I did, however, sand it and repaint it because of poor foreign casting but now it looks like the original. i have yet to find the correct replacement for the steering column interior seal for my '36 Dodge. Either too long or too short. I think I'll just reuse the original. When you say pedals, do you mean the actual pedals or pedal seals. Pedal seals, like I said are available and it doesn't really matter the color. I've always seen them in black. If you need pedals I have some from a '36 Dodge that might be the same. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vette-kid Posted July 11, 2019 Author Share Posted July 11, 2019 I actually need both, pedals and seals. Black is fine for the seals, but I'd like all the boots and pedals to be there correct brown. I REALLY want to find the right seal for the drive shaft, we've got that it right now for a steering box rebuild, so now of the time. I DO NOT went to remove that a second time! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vette-kid Posted July 11, 2019 Author Share Posted July 11, 2019 On 12/13/2018 at 10:16 PM, 36splod said: I have a 36 P2 and have researched some of this topic as well. I have the 36 master parts list and it shows different part numbers for the P1 and P2 pedal pads but there is no indication of difference as to color. I'm just guessing that the P1 would be black and P2 brown. Bernbaum doesn't have all the rubber in any color so I just got a dust cap for the top of the trans tower that doesn't fit or would need a bucket of KY to get it all the way down there. I got the firewall rubber grommets and a trans boot from Steele and there is no way that boot is going to fit unless I can double its size. I agree it's a can of worms trying to get good right reproduction parts for these cars! Would you be willing to post a picture of where your steering column comes into the engine bay through the firewall? I have a feeling the grommet we pulled off of there may have been someones makeshift repair, without pictures in the manual (there are none) I can't be sure. Steele had one that looks close, but it's hard to be sure. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jpage Posted July 11, 2019 Share Posted July 11, 2019 I assume that you are referring to the pedal pads and not the actual steel pedal itself. Steele rubber sells the black and brown pedal replacement pads that slip over the old pads. There are 2 different styles, you probably need the number 40-0121-89. Restoration Specialties makes and sell the black version for a lot less than Steele and they have the steel back with the bolt moulded in. Steele also shows a slip on brown gas pedal cover in the same design, no. 40-0113-89 but you must have your original pedal. I'm not sure what you mean by "boot'' as the only boot type cover used is the shift lever boot that comes in brown and black and will go over the lever with a little persuasion and the shift and brake floor plates are also available in brown. Your car would probably have had a brown floor mat too, which might be harder to find. I'm not sure that any are available anymore or if the are even close to the original. It might pay to seek out some brown rubber matting and cut your own. Where the column comes through the firewall there should be a metal plate the secures a piece of 3/16 thick flat rubber with a hole for the column. this is always black and has to be cut from sheet rubber. The inside grommet is a toss up as there are no actual part number shown in the Steele catalog to identify application. Just have to compare. I'm not sure that the Plymouth Doctor is still in business but you might try him. You may have to use your original or if it's in good shape you might be able to cast your own in brown with all the stuff available to do rubber casting on the internet. Good hunting. What seal are you hunting for the driveshaft? There are only seals in the transmission and rear end. The driveshaft only used leather covers on the u-joints as dust seals. These can be found but they are pricey, especially if you can find both at the same time. They do make rubber boots for that purpose but I would not recommend them as they don't last long. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vette-kid Posted July 12, 2019 Author Share Posted July 12, 2019 (edited) 3 hours ago, jpage said: I assume that you are referring to the pedal pads and not the actual steel pedal itself. Steele rubber sells the black and brown pedal replacement pads that slip over the old pads. There are 2 different styles, you probably need the number 40-0121-89. Restoration Specialties makes and sell the black version for a lot less than Steele and they have the steel back with the bolt moulded in. Steele also shows a slip on brown gas pedal cover in the same design, no. 40-0113-89 but you must have your original pedal. I'm not sure what you mean by "boot'' as the only boot type cover used is the shift lever boot that comes in brown and black and will go over the lever with a little persuasion and the shift and brake floor plates are also available in brown. Your car would probably have had a brown floor mat too, which might be harder to find. I'm not sure that any are available anymore or if the are even close to the original. It might pay to seek out some brown rubber matting and cut your own. Where the column comes through the firewall there should be a metal plate the secures a piece of 3/16 thick flat rubber with a hole for the column. this is always black and has to be cut from sheet rubber. The inside grommet is a toss up as there are no actual part number shown in the Steele catalog to identify application. Just have to compare. I'm not sure that the Plymouth Doctor is still in business but you might try him. You may have to use your original or if it's in good shape you might be able to cast your own in brown with all the stuff available to do rubber casting on the internet. Good hunting. What seal are you hunting for the driveshaft? There are only seals in the transmission and rear end. The driveshaft only used leather covers on the u-joints as dust seals. These can be found but they are pricey, especially if you can find both at the same time. They do make rubber boots for that purpose but I would not recommend them as they don't last long. Thanks, the rubber sheet is exactly the info I needed. I assumed that would have been a formed part. Or inside grommet was missing, so it's a guess there. I see two listed on Steele website. Try one and hope they will exchange it I guess. Edited July 12, 2019 by vette-kid (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JACK M Posted July 12, 2019 Share Posted July 12, 2019 Steele is great about returns. I forget what it was but I ordered a bunch of stuff from them a few years ag and it took me a year or so to figure out I had ordered something that my car didn't use. Return was no problem, probably helped that I was ordering something else at the time;. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vette-kid Posted July 12, 2019 Author Share Posted July 12, 2019 Ok, inside grommet wasn't missing, dad put it in the trunk and I didn't even realize it was there. It looks different than the two that Steele lists. How is it that they can list two different looking parts for a P2, wouldn't they have all been the same? I'm going to lose my mind trying to find parts for this thing. My previous experience with restorations was a 78 Corvette. You could just about build one from scratch from the various vendor catalogues. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jpage Posted July 13, 2019 Share Posted July 13, 2019 Reproducing age old rubber parts is a difficult task. Identification and application is tough because some of the samples that are acquired come with much misinformation. also, some models can vary on parts even though they are the same years. Manufactures also may have made changes to parts without any real notification to the buyers.Without good clear part numbers on a part and good reference material, it can be really trying to make a positive date and application and some parts may fit multiple vehicles. Another issue is trying to copy old parts. Weather, age, heat, etc. can play havoc with old rubber. many times, a sample piece, even if it looks good, may be shrunken , expanded or distorted and without a new original part to compare it to a manufacture may have no idea that it's not right. In many cases , the manufacture doesn't have a bevy of vehicles to actually test fit the parts before they go on the shelf. Even if samples are sent for fitting, everybody has a different idea of how something should fit or if it actually looks like the correct part. Another issue is demand, unlike some of the more modern vehicles, there is not much demand for parts for many old cars and trucks, making it quite expensive to research and stock a wide variety of parts that may never sell .My hat is off to companies like Steele and Restoration Specialties who seem to do the best job they can in researching and casting new parts. Are there some boo-boos, yeah sure, but you have that in everything. We need to support these companies because like it or not, many are failing as the hobby ages and so are the enthusiasts .We may soon find ourselves devoid of almost all aftermarket suppliers. Connecting with other folks that have similar cars can be a real help and there is a lot of knowledge able and helpful guys on this forum. Don't be afraid to ask! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete in PA Posted July 19, 2019 Share Posted July 19, 2019 On 7/11/2019 at 6:07 PM, vette-kid said: Would you be willing to post a picture of where your steering column comes into the engine bay through the firewall? I have a feeling the grommet we pulled off of there may have been someones makeshift repair, without pictures in the manual (there are none) I can't be sure. Steele had one that looks close, but it's hard to be sure. Here's the steering column passthrough on my 36 D2 project. Is this what you're looking for? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vette-kid Posted July 20, 2019 Author Share Posted July 20, 2019 Yes sir, that's what I needed. Thank you! It's exactly what mine looks like, so at least I know it's not been cobbled together by someone. I've got some rubber to try and replace that material I'll post up how it works. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jpage Posted July 21, 2019 Share Posted July 21, 2019 I think the easiest way would be to cut the rubber a little larger length and width wise to cover the large opening. Cut the hole for the column. To be authentic, you'll have to remove the wheel and slide the rubber over the column from the top as it is one piece with no seams. Once the rubber is in the approximate location trace around the area where the retainer goes to get the final shape. Then trim the rubber and fit it to the retainer. Remember the hole for the column, I believe, was cut at an angle so the rubber laid flat against the firewall without bunching up at the column. Make sure that the rubber is neoprene so it's resistant to heat and oil. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vette-kid Posted October 6, 2019 Author Share Posted October 6, 2019 Just made my own for the inside column seal. Turned it pretty good IMHO 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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