vicpanza Posted October 18, 2018 Share Posted October 18, 2018 Well, after five years and more $$ then I will admit to, the '37 is about done. Still some minor work to do but have been able to drive it and do some adjusting, etc. Runs like a truck and is rather noisy. Have one question for the group. I was able to adjust the clutch pedal to get better shifting without grinding while going up. This is supposed to be synchronized but does not seem to want to down-shift from 3rd to 2nd. Can get it in if going very slow (I also double clutch when shifting). I added some STP to the transmission to add some viscosity to the 85W-140 gear oil. Didn't seem to make too much difference. I believe that just about every nut, bot and screw were removed and all parts reconditioned or replaced. Full engine rebuild with hardened valve seats and balanced. Rebuild the steering gear box and used NOS gauges. Cloth covered wiring harness from RI Wiring. I ended up having a new floor fabricated here in Pittsburgh and then replaced the head panel and tailgate. All new glass and rebuilt the door remotes and window risers (had new gears fabricated as the pot metal ones were shot). Used all SS hardware with lettering ground off and slotted screws. To the best of my knowledge, this is a full stock restoration to original factory specs. Tried to keep it correct. Thanks to so many of you who offered help and advice, especially Jim who has been down to help hang fenders and brainstorm. If in Pittsburgh, stop over for truck rides. 6 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keiser31 Posted October 18, 2018 Share Posted October 18, 2018 SWEEEEEEET truck! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
38rcdodge Posted October 19, 2018 Share Posted October 19, 2018 It looks fantastic! good job. at least on the '38 I'm owned by, there are no synchros on 2nd and 3rd, and never were, according to the shop manual. but is constant mesh, with " "dog teeth" just no synchros... i think double- clutching is a necessity, but I don't have much driving experience with it yet... only once 14 years ago. I hope to gain more soon. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vicpanza Posted October 19, 2018 Author Share Posted October 19, 2018 Thanks. I was surprised that I could drive it almost everywhere in 3rd gear (here is Pittsburgh area with lots of hills) as it has incredible torque. Don't know why I was under the impression that it was synchroed into second gear?? Guess there is no power steering either:) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
38rcdodge Posted October 19, 2018 Share Posted October 19, 2018 Yup they do have torque I have seen them described as synchroed as well in some books, but I have learned there are many unique things about these trucks, the transmission being one of them. and who needs power steering ? at east they have air conditioning... sort of. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alan Cutler Posted October 19, 2018 Share Posted October 19, 2018 So jealous....maybe 9 months away for me.....? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
countrytravler Posted October 19, 2018 Share Posted October 19, 2018 WOW JUST WOW!!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vicpanza Posted October 20, 2018 Author Share Posted October 20, 2018 Was asked for an interior shot. 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yoda Posted October 28, 2018 Share Posted October 28, 2018 That is one beautiful truck. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vicpanza Posted October 28, 2018 Author Share Posted October 28, 2018 Thx Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Dunn Posted October 28, 2018 Share Posted October 28, 2018 (edited) AWESOME looking truck! Transmission (3 speed) in my 38 has never been touched. It works good but needs double clutching and will still grind a bit if I try to shift quickly. I'm getting good at 3-2 downshift when slowing to make corners-- clutch in and shift into neutral while braking, rev engine just right with clutch out, clutch in, and it will slip into 2nd perfectly as I make corner. Couple questions-- I was just reading & talking running boards on the Facebook group. Are your running boards bare steel repo parts (with pattern like original rubber covering) painted / coated black? Looks great whatever they are! Seems like there is NO way to replace the original 1/4" thick original rubber covering? What is considered a "proper restoration"? The original steel running boards are plain. All the pattern / ribs are in the rubber and just covering originals with universal ribbed belting would not show the borders along edges and front /back. The originals as far as I can tell had to be made by injecting hot liquid rubber into a mold with the steel running board acting as the bottom of mold. The rubber bonded to steel running board surface (which is full of small holes) and they kept pumping rubber in until it squished out all these holes and formed little nubs to help locate and secure covering once cool? Also-- are your interior door panels original? I see they have the "3 line" horizontal trim markings like originals. I was under the impression that the repo liners were just plain flat stock without the lines? THANKS! Edited October 28, 2018 by John Dunn (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vicpanza Posted October 28, 2018 Author Share Posted October 28, 2018 Thanks for the comments regarding the transmission. Need some more time on this and optimistic I can get her to shift down. I did disassemble and clean this installing new seals and gaskets. My running boards were original. A solid steel base that had a rubber coating vulcanized to the surface, just as you described. There was an old guy in TN by the name of Huntly Acuff who did these using original style dies, but believe he passed away. The only other company I am aware of in the US who does them is RAM Restorations in VA (Charlie Little). The interior door cards and other covers are repos from QuietRide in Stockton, CA. The panels are very close to the originals in surface texture with leatherette like finish, and lines pressed in certain areas as the originals. Given my obsession with my project, I ended up making paper templates of the door cards and front kick panels and they cut them to size for me. We then drilled the mounting holes on site and painted with our grey paint. The folks ate Quiet Ride were really great about working with me on this basis. (the original door cards they sent didn't fit to my liking and they insisted I just keep them and they made me custom cards to my templets). I did the same thing with my floor mat. Bought stock material from Restoration Specialties in Winder, PA, and made a template for that as well. Got a nice fit. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spinneyhill Posted October 28, 2018 Share Posted October 28, 2018 https://www.ramreproductions.com/running-boards.html Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DrewC Posted October 30, 2018 Share Posted October 30, 2018 Absolutely beautiful! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnworden1 Posted October 30, 2018 Share Posted October 30, 2018 Real nice work on the truck. I have a question about the area where the front end of the rear fender meets the rear end of the running board splash apron and box filler panel. Mocking up those parts leaves a large gap between them at the point where they meet. Is there a filler piece of some sort to close up the misalignment gap? I can't tell from the photos. Thanks, John Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vicpanza Posted October 31, 2018 Author Share Posted October 31, 2018 When I was assembling, I also had that concern. Using a few clamps, I was able to pull the fender and running board into position. The splash pan on one side of my truck fit perfectly, the other was straight and there was a large gap between it and the fender. I was able to work it into shape/position and get some bolts in it. Once tighten down, it all lined up and came together. Hope this helps. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnworden1 Posted November 1, 2018 Share Posted November 1, 2018 I think I found the problem. The rubber top of the re pop running board is 5/8" thick. I'll probably modify running board frame brackets to lower the position of the boards which will also bring the fender down to fit the apron. Thanks for the tips. John Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnworden1 Posted November 3, 2018 Share Posted November 3, 2018 Vic, If I'm reading correctly the running boards are OEM. Is that correct? Was there welting between the rear fenders and aprons when you disassembled it? John Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
38rcdodge Posted November 3, 2018 Share Posted November 3, 2018 Actually I realize the earlier trucks with rubber covered running boards don't have fender welting around the running boards ,its not necessary. so may not have it there either. so sorry for any confusion. I'm interested if Vic knows as well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vicpanza Posted November 3, 2018 Author Share Posted November 3, 2018 Yes, there are the original running boards, and believe there was not welting between the ends of the running boards and fenders (front or back). But, my truck was in such bad condition that much of this stuff was gone. The fronts of my rear fendesr had been chopped off. Attached a few pics of what I startered with 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keiser31 Posted November 3, 2018 Share Posted November 3, 2018 What a gorgeous transformation! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
38rcdodge Posted November 3, 2018 Share Posted November 3, 2018 Wow Vic . going from that to the flawless machine you have now means it really must be an obsession.:) amazing. did you save the rear fenders, or find replacements? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vicpanza Posted November 3, 2018 Author Share Posted November 3, 2018 I found a donor truck that someone was chopping and took all the sheet metal, except for the bed. Sold the cab and other parts, but used those fenders, rear and front. This was the first full restoration I did and got kind of carried away. Used to restore antique toy trains, but it was much simpler given their size. It was an obsession, but seeking help for that. Have a 1961 Nash Metro and Triumph TR3 in line for next projects. But, getting smarter about those, and doing more work myself, and finding better sources for parts. Thanks for your note. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
38rcdodge Posted November 3, 2018 Share Posted November 3, 2018 Ahh that's lucky, finding a donor. i had to piece the left front fender back together, using parts from a '36 car. I won't admit how much time I spent . and I confess its still not perfect. and I've had the obsession since about 1991, so good luck with curing it. I never will be. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nhmikel Posted November 8, 2018 Share Posted November 8, 2018 Great job Vic. Many thanks for helping me as well on my own project. Especially on some much needed parts.. Maybe just a few more ?? as they come up Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1937_Dodge_Truck Posted November 11, 2018 Share Posted November 11, 2018 Vic, I had to comment on your truck, as everyone stated... that is a beautiful truck. you done it right! I have a '37 also but am not starting the project yet, still hunting for parts.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vicpanza Posted November 11, 2018 Author Share Posted November 11, 2018 Good luck with your truck, and let me know if you have any questions along the way Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnworden1 Posted January 12, 2022 Share Posted January 12, 2022 Vic, Is or was the hood center hinge chrome plated or painted? Thanks. John Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vicpanza Posted January 12, 2022 Author Share Posted January 12, 2022 The center hood hinge is chrome plated. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnworden1 Posted January 12, 2022 Share Posted January 12, 2022 ok thanks much. John Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnworden1 Posted January 13, 2022 Share Posted January 13, 2022 How is the socket removed from the back of the headlight reflector. Thanks. John Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vicpanza Posted January 13, 2022 Author Share Posted January 13, 2022 This is spring loaded. You have to carefully push it in and rotate. Maybe hold it in from the front. Let me know if that works for you Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnworden1 Posted January 13, 2022 Share Posted January 13, 2022 I'll try that. Seems stuck somehow. Thanks. John Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnworden1 Posted January 14, 2022 Share Posted January 14, 2022 On the back side of the reflector I was able to slip a thin knife blade between the socket flange and reflector just enough to lift the flange away from the reflector back. A slight lift was all that was needed to free 3 very small locator pins out of their holes. Thanks, John Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vicpanza Posted January 14, 2022 Author Share Posted January 14, 2022 OK, good luck with the rest of your build. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnworden1 Posted January 14, 2022 Share Posted January 14, 2022 Vic I need one of the female electrical sockets shown in the headlight bucket. It must have good springs (3) under the contacts. Would you have one? John Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vicpanza Posted January 14, 2022 Author Share Posted January 14, 2022 Sorry. I sold the truck and all my spare parts. You might check with Alan Cutler in S CA. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnworden1 Posted January 14, 2022 Share Posted January 14, 2022 ok thanks. John Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hihoss Posted January 16, 2022 Share Posted January 16, 2022 John also try vic's dodge garage. He specializes in dodge trucks and has a lot of truck parts and if not on the web site call him. https://vicsdodgegarage.com/ He also has LED conversions if you want to see where you are going. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnworden1 Posted January 17, 2022 Share Posted January 17, 2022 OK Thank you. John Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now