Replacing back window in a '65

[65VerdeGS]

Would I be able to replace the rear window in my '65 on my own?

 

The rear window in my car is original.  But it has several noticeable grinder marks near the edges caused by careless body men during earlier paint jobs the car had.

 

I've found a good scratch-free OEM back glass and wonder if replacing my old back glass is something a patient hobbyist could tackle. 

 

I'm pretty sure my rear glass channel is rust free, as I had it restored and the car never sees rain (other than occasional washing).  I do my best to blow out the water after each wash from under the stainless molding. 

 

As best I can see there are no visible signs of rust anywhere around the back glass. 

 

Is this a job best left to a professional?

 

Has anyone done this job themselves?

 

Any tips/or traps I should be aware of?

 

Thanks for any info you can share.

[Scott Mckenzie]

The only thing to watch for are the clips, they rust out over time. do a hose leak test . If it leaks there will be work to be done to repair rust and holes. Very common to find leaks from the clip fasteners rust away leaving a hole .Check your trunk for moisture. The body service manual shows how to install the glass with the rubber spacers. May as well give it a go. Hopefully you have a Riv that was garage kept its whole life

[Seafoam65]

                  This job is really quite easy, although time consuming. You will need to buy the tool for catching the clips to release them

from the stainless trim, and you will need to buy the tool for cutting the old sealer around the edge of the glass to get the glass loose

so it can be removed. You will need a helper to remove and install the glass. After the glass is out, take pictures of exactly where the

old sealer was in the channel so you can put the new sealing tape in the exact same spot on the window channel. Before you install

the new window sealant tape, trial fit your new glass and get it perfectly centered in the opening then mark the glass and the car body with masking tape

that lines up so you can drop the new glass in perfectly centered. After you scrape off all the old sealant you will need to paint the surface with primer

especially made for installing window sealing tape so you will get good adhesion to the body. Use the 5/16 3M window sealing tape for best results.

The tricky part about this job is installing the sealing tape in the exact correct spot so that you don't see it after the stainless trim is reinstalled.

 

[JZRIV]

Alex,

Note I see Winston replied as I was typing this so some may be repeat.

 

I've done many on 2nd gens front and rear. It will depend on your DIYS skill level. Certainly its doable but isn't something the average backyard person attempts because a glass shop can do them with minimal labor hence minimal cost. A pro glass shop will also use urethane sealer which requires special application tool and skill. On our Rivs the sealer needs to be the correct thickness so the stainless trim seats flush as original. As the urethane is being applied the tech needs to know the size of bead and how much it will compress to end up with glass at right depth for correct trim fit and without squished out sealer on the inside. Experience counts here!!  

Urethane sealer on the other hand has superior sealing ability vs the DIYS ribbon sealer pictured below. It will compensate for a less than perfect pinch weld surface.

 

I'm the type that doesn't trust anyone working on my car and if you go to a shop and don't get a tech that understands and appreciates antique cars you could end up disappointed. If you have a trusted shop, I'd just have them do it. If you want to attempt yourself, read on.

 

You'll need a special tool to remove the stainless trim without damaging it. You slide it under the trim running it along until you feel a clip then grip to release the clip. Easy to DAMAGE trim if not careful. You'll need a tool to cut the old seal. There are 2 or 3 different types of seal cutters but I always preferred the ones that have 2 handles and use piano wire. They are inexpensive and used in a sawing motion while pulling to cut the old seal. For the rear window you'll need 2 people one inside and one out. Other cutter designs increase risk of damage to paint IMO.

Once the old glass is out obviously you want to clean up the pinch weld of all old sealer and repair any rust. Spending time insuring this surface is true and clean will go along way towards a water tight seal. Also insure the new used glass is clean as well. I use the 3M ribbon sealer kits. 5/16 diameter works well on 2nd gens but will say I've never done glass on a 1st gen. I'd think same but not sure.

Its a good idea to do a dry run without sealer and I like to make spacers temporarily glued to pinch weld to make setting glass in correct place simple as once the glass contacts sealer, there is no moving it. You have one shot to get it right.

With surface cleaned and prepped apply the ribbon sealer to pinch weld towards inside edge to insure contact with glass. With 2 people set the glass in place and go around perimeter lightly pressing it against the ribbon. For insurance you can apply a film of RTV using a putty knife pushing it up against the edge of glass and sealer squeezing/pressing it into any imperfections that may exist between pinch weld, sealer and glass.

[65VerdeGS]

Thanks Jason and Winston for sharing your knowledge and experience!

 

This sounds like a job that could be done by a patient do-it-yourself-er.  However, it isn't exactly a simple process, and one that might go wrong, especially in less-experienced hands.

 

I think I'll scout around to see if I can find an installer that is experienced in working on old cars. I'd want someone that would take the time to do it right.  It would probably be money well spent vs. possibly screwing it up myself.

 

I'll keep you posted.

 

 

 

 

[60FlatTop]

When do you notice the grinder marks?

[65VerdeGS]

 

On 10/2/2018 at 1:45 PM, 60FlatTop said:

When do you notice the grinder marks?

 

The grinder marks are visible when looking at the back window from the outside.  There's a 4" section of grinder marks near top center of the glass, and more rash visible on one side.

 

Luckily I don't notice the marks when looking out through the rear-view mirror.

 

What I really want to do is switch out all the plain glass in my car for Soft-Ray glass.  I now have all 7 pieces (my windshield is already tinted).  I hear scare stories about swapping out the glass, especially the rear quarters.  Still mulling the merits of doing this swap...

[RockinRiviDad]

I could use some direction pls.

 

My Riviera body manual shows that the rear windows uses 10 spacers. 4 of one size & 6 of another. 

 

 

I ordered the 3M kit with setting blocks shown above. When it arrived I found that it only came with 2 setting blocks. 

 

I’m confused. Is this kit suppose to have the 10 spacers? Or am I suppose to order them separately? 

 

Any experience or help would be appreciated 

 

[telriv]

What you don't have you will need to cut the ones that are missing from a piece of hard rubber to the dimensions shown.   Most only use the two for the bottom for supporting the glass. Using tape as was mentioned when eliminate the need for the extra pieces.

[Seafoam65]

                     All you need to do is set the glass on the two blocks provided in the kit. Put the two blocks at the bottom of the glass

1/3 of the way from the side edge of the glass on each block. All those other blocks are not needed. Trial fit the glass before putting the 

ribbon sealer on the window opening, and mark the glass with masking tape lines on the glass and the body so you get the glass perfectly

centered when you drop it in. Be sure to use a helper to drop the glass in, don't attempt to do it by yourself.

[RockinRiviDad]

Me & a buddy just installed my rear glass yesterday. It was pretty easy to do. 

 

Does this 5/16” ribbon work for the windshield installation too? Or is it a different size we need?

[Seafoam65]

                      Use the 5/16 on the front as well