alsfarms Posted August 22, 2019 Author Share Posted August 22, 2019 Picture 3: rear wheel with original brake drum in place 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alsfarms Posted August 22, 2019 Author Share Posted August 22, 2019 Picture 4: sad condition of original brake drum (badly pitted) 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alsfarms Posted August 22, 2019 Author Share Posted August 22, 2019 Picture 5: New cast brake drum with extended mounting flange (better design to keep the brake drum concentric with the wheel assembly) 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alsfarms Posted August 22, 2019 Author Share Posted August 22, 2019 Picture 6: rear wheel with new machined brake drum in place, (just need to drill mounting holes in the brake drum then transfer those holes to the rear spokes) As you can see this design brake drum will hold the concentricity of the brake drum to the rear hub. Al 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alsfarms Posted August 22, 2019 Author Share Posted August 22, 2019 (edited) Picture 7: Locomobile, at this time, was still in the developing stage but they did engineer a very robust brake system for use on their cars. This is another view. To give a better perspective, this car used a 25" Firestone demountable/detachable rim with a 34 x 4-1/2" straight side tire. Al Edited August 22, 2019 by alsfarms addition for clarity (see edit history) 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AHa Posted August 22, 2019 Share Posted August 22, 2019 I like to see progress being made. This Loco may yet roll!!!! 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alsfarms Posted August 22, 2019 Author Share Posted August 22, 2019 The goal is to get a running car for sure....... 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AHa Posted August 23, 2019 Share Posted August 23, 2019 (edited) vroom Edited August 23, 2019 by AHa (see edit history) 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alsfarms Posted August 23, 2019 Author Share Posted August 23, 2019 (edited) Yes, we are very arid here in the high desert of western Utah. Much of the remains of my car was up out of the dirt, (except the bottom of the wheels) so the water simply ran off. The Locomobile sat out from probably about the mid 1920's until I acquired the remains from a family member in 1976. Now for the brakes. All the linkage and pivot points are intact and in good shape. However, sitting out for so many years, rain and then snow melted and ran between the cotton brake linings and the cast iron brake drums. The action of time, no movement of the wheels and moisture pitted the original brake drums on both the OD of the drums and also the ID. I thought about trying to repair the drums by filling the pits with brass....then I thought better of that idea and decided NO WAY. That is when I decided to just bite the bullet and have new improved drums cast. I had a good time going nice and easy with the lathe doing the machine work to size the OD, the width and finally the ID of the drum to match the originals, (and also fit exactly to the OD of the inner wheel hub flange). These new brake drums should last way longer than I will and provide for the best possible braking! That's the story on Utah weather, and pitted brake drums. Al Edited December 7, 2019 by alsfarms clarity (see edit history) 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike Macartney Posted August 23, 2019 Share Posted August 23, 2019 Nice job Al. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alsfarms Posted August 23, 2019 Author Share Posted August 23, 2019 Hello Mike, Thanks for the compliment. I find a few moments, once in a while, to post a few things. Your Humberette is such a nice project. I am enthralled with the V twin engine and follow as I can and post as time permits. I keep kicking around the notion of building a 1924 JD Harley-Davidson. But first I need this seriously long term Locomobile done and out of the way! Al 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AHa Posted August 23, 2019 Share Posted August 23, 2019 (edited) I'm amazed the brake drums attach to the wheel spokes. It doesn't seem like a good set up. One would think over time the bolts would wallow out and allow the drum to flex back and forth. I guess this was an expensive car to restore from the beginning, which is why no one attempted restoration before you got it, and why the restoration has taken you so long to perform and, altho you could have converted this car to a speedster, you have opted for a correct and complete restoration. All these factors are the reason it is not yet restored. Its a real shame the car was not treated with more respect early in its life so that you could have purchased a car in better condition. It has always bothered me how people will buy nice cars then leave them setting outside in the weather. I knew a man who had a nice 32 Chrysler. The motor threw a rod so he pulled the motor and had it rebuilt but never reinstalled it in the car. The car set out in the weather until there was nothing to restore, then he decided to sell it. Edited August 23, 2019 by AHa (see edit history) 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alsfarms Posted August 25, 2019 Author Share Posted August 25, 2019 (edited) Yes I agree with your thinking....simply to bad that it was not tended to by my ancestors. However, in perspective, these early cars, even high end, soon became cheap obsolete work out cars. It is good that even the remains of any cars survived the era when they had more value in junk than as a car, (my Locomobile included). In fact, the scrap drives of WW2 took the original engine, trans. steering gear and radiator. Brass/bronze and copper was and still is a valuable material. My Locomobile being a "long Term" project that started back in the 1970's allowed me time to HUNT, SCROUNGE, HORSE TRADE, BUY and BUILD what the car was missing, to the point that I now have most all the missing pieces from which I can build a car. Happy days! Al Edited December 7, 2019 by alsfarms clarity (see edit history) 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AHa Posted August 25, 2019 Share Posted August 25, 2019 Wow, you started with a "starter kit" and built a car out of it. Your car was a parts donor car that you found parts to put back together. I guess this was possible because so many Locos found uses in other areas, front axles for trailers, engines and trans as power plants, ecetera. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alsfarms Posted August 26, 2019 Author Share Posted August 26, 2019 (edited) Yes you see the picture created by the last 40 years for my Locomobile! Al Edited December 7, 2019 by alsfarms clarity (see edit history) 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alsfarms Posted September 7, 2019 Author Share Posted September 7, 2019 Back to the idea of wheel restoration for the Locomobile. The wheels all have new wood. Here is a question. Would I be wise to soak these wheels in boiled linseed oil before any further work is done to swell the wood and, in my way of thinking, keep the wheels tight for many years to come? What experience have you had preserving wooden wheels before paint? Al 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AHa Posted September 13, 2019 Share Posted September 13, 2019 If the wheels are new, they are unlikely to absorb much oil. You could try something like lemon oil. It is lighter than linseed oil. Generally, new wood does not need oil, only aged wood. So if you paint your wheels now, you might need to strip them 30 years from now to oil them. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alsfarms Posted September 13, 2019 Author Share Posted September 13, 2019 Nice thoughts on soaking wheels. Al 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alsfarms Posted September 14, 2019 Author Share Posted September 14, 2019 Here is a before picture of what my Locomobile had for wheels when I started. Look close and you can pick out the spokes for one of the rear wheels and part of the fello. Al 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alsfarms Posted September 14, 2019 Author Share Posted September 14, 2019 Here is an after picture which included building the steel fello bands and all new wood for wheels. This picture is of one of the rear wheels. I still need to drill for the brake drums and mounting of the demountable/detachable Firestone rims. Al 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AHa Posted September 14, 2019 Share Posted September 14, 2019 (edited) Al, you should have restored the wheels you had. If none of the wheels were worse than the one you pictured, those were totally restoreable. All you need is a few dowels and some epoxy. Totally doable. Was that cam out of your motor? Edited September 14, 2019 by AHa (see edit history) 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alsfarms Posted September 14, 2019 Author Share Posted September 14, 2019 hahaha....The cam is a HI-PO unit out of a 350 Chev. that went round like many of them did. Al 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alsfarms Posted October 8, 2019 Author Share Posted October 8, 2019 Here is a picture of a 1914 and newer black face Locomobile oil pressure gauge. Ebay is good for something once in a while! I may have a use for this gauge in the future. Al 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alsfarms Posted October 10, 2019 Author Share Posted October 10, 2019 Does anyone know for sure that each line of demarcation, on the above gauge, represents one pound of oil pressure? Al 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike Macartney Posted October 10, 2019 Share Posted October 10, 2019 It's strange that there are no figures at all? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AHa Posted October 10, 2019 Share Posted October 10, 2019 (edited) Back in that day oil pressure was not a concern. The more pressing question is whether there was oil flow. I have a 1940 Chevy truck and I used to get really distressed driving it because when I first cranked it up it, it would register 30lbs of pressure but once it warmed up, barely 5. Then an old timer told me as long as I had pressure I was fine. What you want is for oil to circulate through the system. The journals are larger, which provides for more flow, but makes it harder to increase pressure. Some of the early cars had sight gauges on the dash if there was an oil pump. As long as you could see oil running through the gauge you were fine. Oil pressure became a concern on more modern style engines that have smaller oil galleys. It takes pressure to force the oil through the smaller holes and in order to make sure everything was properly oiled, pressure was increased. Edited October 10, 2019 by AHa (see edit history) 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike Macartney Posted October 11, 2019 Share Posted October 11, 2019 Thank you for the explanation. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alsfarms Posted October 11, 2019 Author Share Posted October 11, 2019 Here is additional explanation on early Locomobile engine oiling technology. On the early cars, my 1909 included, the original oiling system was by a mechanical oiler/dripper unit. This system did just what AHa above suggested. It just delivered a predetermined amount of oil to each lubrication places on the engine. In order to verify that the oilerwas "working" a visual site glass was on the dash that allowed the driver verify that the driver could simply see oil flow and thus proper oiler function. Slightly later, Locomobile began using a low pressure oil pump and a gauge like the one I now have to monitor the "oil pressure". I am guessing that the early Locomobile oil pump system would develop maybe 5 PSI at best. Al 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Terry Harper Posted October 11, 2019 Share Posted October 11, 2019 According to Wisconsin for their T-heads (including the "A" used by Stutz and FWD etc.) with the engine warmed up at 1,000 rpm you should have 5 psi on the gauge. Its all about volume as opposed to pressure. They recommend Mobil "A" oil (whatever weight that is!) for light duty use. Stirling T-heads were good with 3-15 psi. Below is a Sterling Model "F" setup for a marine installation. i would suspect Locomobile would be similar. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AHa Posted October 12, 2019 Share Posted October 12, 2019 Al, I just re read this thread and realized you have accomplished quite a bit this year. I have two questions. From your first posts it appears your flywheel is just a shell of its former self. Have you lightened it? The pressure system you have devised for the gas, is it original to your car?. If not, how was it originally? 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alsfarms Posted October 12, 2019 Author Share Posted October 12, 2019 (edited) I wanted to make my Locomobile a nice running and as strong a performer as possible without throwing tons of money or majorly altering the car. Yes, a very typical "improvement" is to lighten the flywheel to improve performance, which we did. I do not have the figures, for weight reduction, right in front of me but we only removed what was needed in order to facilitate the addition of the nice cast aluminum oil pump bracket. This unit required a bit of room taken up by the inner flange of the flywheel. Now when running, the engine is very responsive and the Delco dual spark distributor makes for a very good smooth running engine, and none the less, a significant reliability improvement. (The Stutz Bearcat used the same type distributor and we know how they perform). For authenticity, I incorporated the oil distribution plumbing with the original oiler and left it in place. It certainly does look nice to have the oiler in place. As mentioned, with the engine chat earlier, the oil pump discharge pressure is adjustable. When we started the engine initially, the pump was trying to put out 50 PSI. At that pressure the drive was working way hard (would have caused premature gear wear) and I do not feel that 50 PSI is needed. We backed off the PSI setting to run at 25 PSI. For this car I will probably run a pressure gauge under the hood somewhere and on the dash will simply use the original site glass that only shows flow. The fueling system that I am building will allow me to have a pressure system to keep fuel to the carb. under all conditions. The fueling system, I have designed, is an accurate to the era improvement but not original to my car. Most fellows hide an electric fuel pump somewhere to solve the fueling issue. I chose to use an original technology and am actually quite impressed with it. I hope that I have addressed your question per above. Al Edited December 7, 2019 by alsfarms clarity (see edit history) 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alsfarms Posted October 12, 2019 Author Share Posted October 12, 2019 (edited) Hello Terry, Thanks for posting the pictures of the Stirling 6 cylinder engine. Yes, the engine oil system is similar to what is used on my Locomobile, but is way more closely related to what the system is that is on the Wisconsin 4 cylinder Model "M" engine. I have a low pressure oil gauge that reads up to 10 PSI which I intend to use on the Wisconsin engine. The Stirling looks like a very robust engine! Al Edited October 12, 2019 by alsfarms addition for clarity (see edit history) 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alsfarms Posted October 17, 2019 Author Share Posted October 17, 2019 Has anyone used one of the Sonic cleaners advertised on EBAY? They are used mainly for jewelry but are also great for carburetors and other parts that need cleaning and freeing up. If you have used one, share with me what works best for a cleaning medium to add to the water. I have purchased one of these cleaners and am going to clean up several items and would like to have a heads up on the best way to use this machine to achieve the best results. Al 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alsfarms Posted October 22, 2019 Author Share Posted October 22, 2019 I am providing a good "TIP" on using an Ultrasonic Cleaner to clean and free up antique auto parts. In this case my first test batch contains the front torque arm spring assembly, a brass fuel line sediment bowl and the heart of the fuel delivery system (also brass). I will only post a picture of the unit working for only about 10 minutes. If you want to follow more, a complete story of the Ultrasonic Cleaner learning curve is at the HCCA website under "TIPS and ADVICE". I need to open up this torque spring assembly to replace a spring and the cross-wise spring. This is a perfect test for the Ultrasonic cleaner and will help me along with the restoration of the Locomobile. If you have any suggestions or questions about this parts cleaner, please post. Al 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alsfarms Posted October 30, 2019 Author Share Posted October 30, 2019 this is a follow up to my test of the Ultrasonic cleaner. I have learned that the ultrasonic cleaner is just that, a cleaner. It is not a sandblaster, chemical stripper etc. It does have some strong points and good uses. I also learned that it is good about freeing up stuck parts and would be very good with the application of an internally stuck carburetor. The cleaning action takes place everywhere that is covered with water. I will be sand blasting the torque spring assembly, shown above, and then another bath in the Ultrasonic cleaner with the idea that I want to break down this assembly for repair and restoration. Al 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike Macartney Posted October 30, 2019 Share Posted October 30, 2019 Al, do you have a photo of what the parts look like after cleaning? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alsfarms Posted October 30, 2019 Author Share Posted October 30, 2019 Hello Mike, Yes, I forgot to add them to this forum. Al 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alsfarms Posted October 31, 2019 Author Share Posted October 31, 2019 Here is a before of the fuel delivery casting. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alsfarms Posted October 31, 2019 Author Share Posted October 31, 2019 Here is the after of the same piece after a bath in the Ultrasonic cleaner. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alsfarms Posted October 31, 2019 Author Share Posted October 31, 2019 Here is a before picture showing a very rusted front torque spring assembly. This is really just about the best test piece I could come up with. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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