old-tank Posted March 9, 2018 Share Posted March 9, 2018 1 hour ago, JohnD1956 said: I would have made the same choice. Yeah, perfect! I have even used Por15 and fiberglass on small holes! Not structural and not seen. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Smartin Posted March 9, 2018 Share Posted March 9, 2018 10 grand?? I need to raise my prices. You chose wisely. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mack0331 Posted March 9, 2018 Author Share Posted March 9, 2018 1 minute ago, Smartin said: 10 grand?? I need to raise my prices. You chose wisely. And that was the cheap option. What they called " hot rod floors" . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mack0331 Posted March 17, 2018 Author Share Posted March 17, 2018 I finally got my transmission back. A little annoyed about two things. I specifically asked if the price they quoted me included rebuilding the torque ball and the guy said the price includes everything it needed. Well they didn't rebuild the torque ball I got that back in a box. Oh well I ordered a rebuild kit. Second they don't have the 3 open spots in converter for the flexplate to attach to in the right position. They have two open holes next to each other. I think by reading the manual I can figure out which of the bolt holes are for the flexplate to attach to. For bolting the flexplate to the converter are they just 3 regular bolts ? I thought I rememered like studs coming off the converter and going through the flexplate then nuts going on to attach the flexplate ? 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beemon Posted March 18, 2018 Share Posted March 18, 2018 On 56, they are studs and nuts. My shop did not do the torque ball either because it does not come with the kit. However, after I had the car on the road, I took it back to them and they did the repair for free (also had the rear axle shimmed at the same time, took advantage of the free labor to remove the rear axle). The torque ball is not hard to do, though. The kit comes with shims, you need to read the shop manual and then determine by hand what the right clearance "feels like". Make sure to remove all the rubber from the torque ball, too. The new kits have the rubber on the retainer. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mack0331 Posted March 18, 2018 Author Share Posted March 18, 2018 Well I don't have the stud things and don't see them in the box with the torque ball. Where the hell am I going to find those ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
old-tank Posted March 18, 2018 Share Posted March 18, 2018 15 hours ago, Beemon said: The kit comes with shims, you need to read the shop manual and then determine by hand what the right clearance "feels like". Just use two of the shim as gaskets. No need to 'set' anything when using the outer torque ball retainer with rubber. Coat the rubber with silicone grease (Silglyde---NAPA and drive happy. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mack0331 Posted March 24, 2018 Author Share Posted March 24, 2018 Got the torque ball all rebuilt and the trans and motor in. The trans mount I got from CARS was a real piece of precision engineering lol. Wasn't even close to fitting. Had to elongate the two end holes on the crossmember to get it to fit. Its all in though. 6 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mack0331 Posted March 28, 2018 Author Share Posted March 28, 2018 Holy shit boys the body is back on. Sprayed the underside with raptor bed liner and got it set back on. The rear end needs to come left a bit I think the panhard bar is bent. Is it supposed to have a bend in it like in my pic or be straight ? It had that bend in it when I got the car thought it might just be like that but the rear is deffinetly too far to the right side of the car so something's up. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnD1956 Posted March 29, 2018 Share Posted March 29, 2018 (edited) It's a straight bar for the '56. That looks like it's damaged in my opinion but I don't have a '57. Edited March 29, 2018 by JohnD1956 (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Smartin Posted March 29, 2018 Share Posted March 29, 2018 Definitely is supposed to be straight. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mack0331 Posted March 29, 2018 Author Share Posted March 29, 2018 (edited) I tried to find a pic on Google before I painted and put that one in but couldn't find much. Decided to just put it in and deal with it later if it was bent. With the rear end sitting to far right I guess I better find one now. Try to find a stock one or maybe a adjustable that will fit ? Edited March 29, 2018 by Mack0331 Spelling (see edit history) 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Smartin Posted March 29, 2018 Share Posted March 29, 2018 One thing to note is that when the suspension is completely unloaded, the rear end will sit off to one side a bit, due to the geometry of the bar. But I would really try to source one from another car. That one is fubar. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
avgwarhawk Posted March 29, 2018 Share Posted March 29, 2018 13 hours ago, Mack0331 said: I tried to find a pic on Google before I painted and put that one in but couldn't find much. Decided to just put it in and deal with it later if it was bent. With the rear end sitting to far right I guess I better find one now. Try to find a stock one or maybe a adjustable that will fit ? It should be straight for sure. If push came to shove I would believe a threaded end bar with attaching adjustable end could be made. I believe the original ends are welded to the bar? Cut the welds and cut a new bar to correct length? 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
avgwarhawk Posted March 29, 2018 Share Posted March 29, 2018 19 hours ago, Mack0331 said: I tried to find a pic on Google before I painted and put that one in but couldn't find much. Decided to just put it in and deal with it later if it was bent. With the rear end sitting to far right I guess I better find one now. Try to find a stock one or maybe a adjustable that will fit ? If you can not find an OE I believe Classic Industries can offer an adjustable panhard. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1957buickjim Posted March 30, 2018 Share Posted March 30, 2018 Mack, It is supposed to be straight. That is quite the curvature on that panhard bar. I would try to find a replacement for that one. I'm quite sure someone on the forum has one for a 57 available. On the otherside, your progress is looking great! I wish my wagon was at that level right now... Jim Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1957buickjim Posted March 30, 2018 Share Posted March 30, 2018 (edited) Mack, Here is a picture of the rear suspension with the panhard bar on my 57 Sedan. Edited March 30, 2018 by 1957buickjim (see edit history) 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mack0331 Posted March 30, 2018 Author Share Posted March 30, 2018 Thanks for the info. I put up.a wanted post in the classifieds so hopefully I'll find one. Didn't see any on eBay. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lancemb Posted March 30, 2018 Share Posted March 30, 2018 (edited) 31 minutes ago, Mack0331 said: Thanks for the info. I put up.a wanted post in the classifieds so hopefully I'll find one. Didn't see any on eBay. Not likely you'll see one listed, but there are a couple being parted on there. Try French Lake Auto in MN and RPM Motorsports. I know they have at least one 57 being parted. Edited March 30, 2018 by lancemb (see edit history) 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beemon Posted March 31, 2018 Share Posted March 31, 2018 (edited) There are many 57s out at Trust Salvage in the Auburn/ Covington area. Edited April 1, 2018 by Beemon (see edit history) 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mack0331 Posted March 31, 2018 Author Share Posted March 31, 2018 (edited) 3 hours ago, Beemon said: There are many 57s out at Trust Salvage in the Auburn/ Covington area. I'll check it out theres a few things I need. They really only open on Saturdays for 4 hours? Edited March 31, 2018 by Mack0331 (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mack0331 Posted March 31, 2018 Author Share Posted March 31, 2018 Got the body all down to bare metal and got a coat of primer on it. Didn't want to leave it bare metal too long. Didn't mask off the inside cause I'm going to put another coat of raptor liner inside anyway . body work will start shortly. 6 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beemon Posted April 1, 2018 Share Posted April 1, 2018 3 hours ago, Mack0331 said: I'll check it out theres a few things I need. They really only open on Saturdays for 4 hours? Give Matt a call, he's usually open to week day drive-ins if the schedule permits. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mack0331 Posted April 28, 2018 Author Share Posted April 28, 2018 Got the doors and fenders in primer. I'm really getting tired of sanding ! Got the doors and the fenders on. Everything is going together pretty well for just a initial test fit. It looks like a car again for now. 5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mack0331 Posted May 2, 2018 Author Share Posted May 2, 2018 (edited) I went and bought all the body work supplies and paint holy crap quality paint is expensive ! I knew it would be expensive so I wanted to get that out of the way so I could better budget some other things. I don't know a whole lot about paint I have a guy helping with that. Went to the body supply store and talked to them for a bit . Told them I wanted pretty top tier paint. Like I said I knew it would be expensive but damn $680 a gallon then $500 clear coat plus all the reducer and stuff on top of that man this car better look AMAZING! Now on to the body work then getting this thing painted. For weather strip kits is kanter the best option ? Their kit that includes everything doors , windows , windshield , rear glass all that is $1800! Seems like a awful lot for some rubber. I mean I'll pay it if I have to just seems like a lot. Edited May 2, 2018 by Mack0331 (see edit history) 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beemon Posted May 2, 2018 Share Posted May 2, 2018 Check Steele rubber, too. They might be cheaper than kanter's mark up price. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1957buickjim Posted May 4, 2018 Share Posted May 4, 2018 Steele Rubber has a kit for you car. They are pretty much in line. I've used Steele for my weatherstrips on both my vehicles. Fit and look factory like. As for paint, I went through TCP Global. They have a section called Auto Color Library, where you can look up the factory color paint of your car, and order it in various types (Lacquer, Enamel, SS Urethane, Base coat/ClearCoat) A lot less costly then what you are working with, and the paint matches the factory color chart really well. website is TCPGlobal.com. Hope this helps. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mack0331 Posted May 4, 2018 Author Share Posted May 4, 2018 I'll check out steele rubber . The paint I got is DuPont chromabase, and PPG 2002 clear coat. I didn't want factory colors. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
old-tank Posted May 4, 2018 Share Posted May 4, 2018 12 hours ago, Mack0331 said: The paint I got is DuPont chromabase, and PPG 2002 clear coat. I didn't want factory colors. Careful. If there is a failure in the finish PPG will blame DuPont and Dupont will blame PPG. On the other hand that premium finish will stand up to everyday use in the elements, but like most of our restorations it will lead a sheltered life and nearly any paint (except lacquer) will outlast you. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mack0331 Posted May 4, 2018 Author Share Posted May 4, 2018 Not going to be too sheltered I'm not going to be like 50k into a car to look at it. I am going to drive it. Probably more than I should a car like that lol. 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mack0331 Posted May 18, 2018 Author Share Posted May 18, 2018 Can anyone give me a measurement of how wide the stripe down the back of the front wheel well is on 2 tones? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Smartin Posted May 18, 2018 Share Posted May 18, 2018 It just follows the body line all the way down. I did it free hand on Lance's 57. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mack0331 Posted May 18, 2018 Author Share Posted May 18, 2018 Cool thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mack0331 Posted May 22, 2018 Author Share Posted May 22, 2018 Since I'll be painting soon and don't want water messing up my expensive ass paint I built a manifold / water trap with some copper pipes. I know I didn't have to make the horizontal parts as long as I did but I bought the pipe in 10' sticks so was trying to work it out so I used it all. Close to 80' total. Put ball valves on the down pipes to drain water. Also added a devilbliss 3 stage filter / desiccant dryer to use when painting. I never soldered copper before this but it was easy and it works great no leaks. I ran it for a while with a sander and did get water out all the downpipes. Still got a good amount of water in the first little filter but compressor was running pretty hard working the sander and I didn't notice any water getting to the tool so it should do good for painting especially after running through the new dryer. I'll get a new hose for painting too. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnD1956 Posted May 22, 2018 Share Posted May 22, 2018 Yikes! I wonder if this could have been shorter if one used a section of hot water radiator for a condenser? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mack0331 Posted May 22, 2018 Author Share Posted May 22, 2018 Wasn't that bad. Into it about $200 for all the copper stuff. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mack0331 Posted July 15, 2018 Author Share Posted July 15, 2018 Haven't posed in a while still plugging along on the body work. Its almost all done now. My family car Taurus SHO blew a turbo so had to take some time off the Buick for a bit. I ordered all the weather striping , chanel runs , window seals every rubber part on the car that wasn't cheap. Was hoping to be painting by now but got pushed back a bit when falimly car died. Bit more sanding and shaping then I'll primer it again block sand final time then finally paint time ! 5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mack0331 Posted August 14, 2018 Author Share Posted August 14, 2018 Anyone have any opinions / experience with speedway wiring harnesses ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1957buickjim Posted August 16, 2018 Share Posted August 16, 2018 I've used Rhode Island Wiring for my harnesses. Exact fit. Correct Colors for wiring diagram in shop manual for trouble shooting. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mack0331 Posted August 26, 2018 Author Share Posted August 26, 2018 Finished all the body work. Got it all apart and its paint time ! Here's a sneak peak 1st coat going on. 9 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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