filozof97 Posted May 23, 2017 Share Posted May 23, 2017 Hello; I wonder- how to disassemble a wiper tower, to get it plated? I especially mean how to remove upper shaft (the one on which wiper arm is mounted). It's connected to the lower one with small chain; I already removed lover one but have no idea how upper is mounted. Any ideas? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Taylormade Posted May 23, 2017 Share Posted May 23, 2017 We really need to know the type of car and the model year to help you out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
filozof97 Posted May 23, 2017 Author Share Posted May 23, 2017 The car is a 48 Plymouth P-15 Convertible, but I think that all wiper tower are generally the same in design (weren't they all manufactured by Trico?), so way would be probably the same. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DonMicheletti Posted May 23, 2017 Share Posted May 23, 2017 This guy is doing a '37 Buick and just posted his tower diassembly. Look around, you'll find it here: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
filozof97 Posted May 23, 2017 Author Share Posted May 23, 2017 His method won't work on mine, as there is no nut and screw. So, should I use WD-40 and then try to pull it out using screwdriver or two? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keiser31 Posted May 23, 2017 Share Posted May 23, 2017 (edited) If it doesn't have a set screw, try to get a hinge pin removal tool. Otherwise you may mess up the spline threads or break the collar. I wouldn't use screwdrivers or do any pounding on it. Edited May 23, 2017 by keiser31 (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
filozof97 Posted May 23, 2017 Author Share Posted May 23, 2017 14 minutes ago, keiser31 said: If it doesn't have a set screw, try to get a hinge pin removal tool. I don't have any idea how that tool might be useful- it pushes pin from the other side, here it's impossible, so only way of removing it seems to be by pulling. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keiser31 Posted May 23, 2017 Share Posted May 23, 2017 Something like this is what you want to use.... 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bhigdog Posted May 23, 2017 Share Posted May 23, 2017 Looks to be pressed on and not made to be disassembled. A small gear puller may work but I WOULD NOT try prying it off. Once off you may need to drill for a cross pin to remount it...........Bob Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keiser31 Posted May 23, 2017 Share Posted May 23, 2017 Or this.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bhigdog Posted May 23, 2017 Share Posted May 23, 2017 1 minute ago, keiser31 said: Something like this is what you want to use.... Too much spring. Rotate the "u" 90 deg and have the bolt saddle go over to both sides.......................... 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
filozof97 Posted May 23, 2017 Author Share Posted May 23, 2017 IMO, it was made like that, so any puller using central screw won't help; the one with two side mounted might, but there isn't enough place for it, and, I suppose- such a tool doesn't exist. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keiser31 Posted May 23, 2017 Share Posted May 23, 2017 (edited) This is similar to what I was thinking.... Edited May 23, 2017 by keiser31 (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bhigdog Posted May 23, 2017 Share Posted May 23, 2017 32 minutes ago, keiser31 said: This is similar to what I was thinking.... BINGO.................Bob Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spinneyhill Posted May 24, 2017 Share Posted May 24, 2017 WD-40 might help but far better would be 50-50 ATF and acetone. Put a couple of drops on and leave. Come back in the evening and put a couple more on. After a couple of days, try pulling the nut off with puller as shown above. BTW, screwdrivers are not pry bars. If you want to stuff your screws, use your screwdrivers for other jobs like scrapers, levers, chisels and so on. Then they will not fit the screws and will jump out and mangle the screw. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MCHinson Posted May 24, 2017 Share Posted May 24, 2017 While I think that the 50-50 ATF and acetone is probably the best solvent, a quick and easy off the shelf product that is much better than WD40 is PB Blaster. It is my usual go to solvent for similar jobs. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spinneyhill Posted May 25, 2017 Share Posted May 25, 2017 (edited) Here is a good test. PBB is not a lot better than WD-40... http://rivperformance.editboard.com/t7128-penetrating-oil-comparison-test This one gives the same results as well as the price per fluid oz. http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php?topic=20131.0 Machinist's Workshop magazine in their April 2007 issue. Edited May 25, 2017 by Spinneyhill (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Curti Posted May 25, 2017 Share Posted May 25, 2017 Penetrating OilsMachinist's Workshop Mag recently published some information on various penetrating oils that I found very interesting. Some of you might appreciate this. The magazine reports they tested penetrates for break out torque on rusted nuts. They are below, as forwarded by an ex-student and professional machinist. They arranged a subjective test of all the popular penetrates with the control being the torque required to remove the nut from a "scientifically rusted" environment. Penetrating oil Average load None 516 pounds WD-40 238 pounds PB Blaster 214 pounds Liquid Wrench 127 pounds Kano Kroil 106 pounds ATF-Acetone mix 53 pounds The ATF-Acetone mix was a "home brew" mix of 50 - 50 automatic transmission fluid and acetone. Note the "home brew" was better than any commercial product in this one particular test. Our local machinist group mixed up a batch and we all now use it with equally good results. Note also that "Liquid Wrench" is almost as good as "Kroil" for about 20% of the price. Steve from Godwin-Singer says that ATF-Acetone mix is the best and you can also use ATF- lacquer thinner 50 - 50 mix. ATF=Automatic Transmission Fluid Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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