1953 Windsor Deluxe. Brakes dragging?

[keithb7]

1953 Windsor Deluxe: Dragging brakes I think... I recently acquired the car and I am learning about what it needs. I have noticed that the rear brake lights are staying on when I park and shut off the car. I got to thinking about the brake light switch, maybe it's sticking on. I ordered a new one. It's on the way, still in the mail. Tonight I went out for a cruise and parked the car in the garage, a little too close to the wall than I like. I got out and noticed the rear brake lights were still on, as I have seen before. The car was shut off. I put it in neutral and thought I 'd just roll it back a foot or so from the wall myself. The car is not that heavy, I know I can roll it as I have done so. Nope, not moving. Now I get to thinking the brake hydraulics are dragging maybe. Maybe that is why the brake lights are staying on after I shut off the car. I leave the car alone, go back 20 mins later and I notice the brake lights are off. I can roll the car. Hmm. Master cylinder rebuild time? Something in there might be binding up. I see there is a valve inside the master cylinder. Does anyone know if this valve would come in a master cylinder rebuilt kit? The previous owner changed all 4 wheel brake cylinders. Do not know if he resealed the master cylinder. Any other ideas, comments are appreciated.

[Joe Cocuzza]

Sounds like master cylinder is at fault. The fluid needs to "flow" back into the master cylinder in order to release the wheel cylinders.

Also, check the rubber flex lines going to the wheel cylinders. See if they are new,too.

 

[JACK M]

My first thought was M/C as well.

If you haven't already, you would be well invested to do a COMPLETE brake job it.

All 5 cylinders and all rubber hoses, and a full flushing of the lines.

 

Its always something.

[Reg Evans]

I had the exact same problem when I first got my 56 New Yorker.  I could drive a few miles but after that the brake light stayed on and the car would barely roll under power.  All wheel cylinders and rubber lines were new looking so I installed a new master cylinder and flushed the system.  Problem solved!  I think the old one was gummed up.

[Rusty_OToole]

There must be some free play in the brake pedal so the master cylinder can retract all the way, releasing pressure. If it does not, the pressure can build up due to heat and friction, making the brakes drag. So check that your master is retracting all the way. It could be a simple adjustment to the pedal rod.

[Grimy]

And don't forget to check the brake pedal return spring....

[keithb7]

Still checking a few things out on the brakes, I discovered something else.

There are 2 wire connections on the brake light switch, one connection is quite hot.

Too hot to touch after I park the car. I am thinking there must be a short there somewhere.

I have a new brake light switch on order. It's not here yet. I will change it, as well as

the entire brake lights wiring. 

[JACK M]

The switch might get hot after the brake lights have been stuck on for awhile.

One of the wires is the voltage supply, the other goes to the turn signal switch.

If you were to take the master cyl. from the car you will probably find it dirty and rusty. The VERY SMALL hole that comes clear when the piston is completely relaxed will be plugged up. Very common.

Maybe a troubleshooting test would be to crack a bleeder valve or loosen the brake light switch when the brake lights offend. You will probably get a small squirt of fluid and the lights will go off.