jps Posted May 15, 2017 Share Posted May 15, 2017 I can't get my car started. I know gas is getting to the carb, and I crank the engine several times but it never fires. However, after cranking several times, and after I see fuel leaking out of the air cleaner, I remove a few spark plugs and find they are completely dry. Shouldn't they be wet at that point? I've taken the carb apart several times and fixed small leaks around drain plugs and screws, and verified that the low speed jet is not plugged. I put in a new float and it seems to both let fuel into the bowl and hold it at a level once full. We re-sleeved the heat riser tube 2 years ago and I know it is still solid. I've replaced points, condenser, rotor and distributor cap. Plugs and wires are 2 years old and have less than 500 miles on them. I measured the ignition coil resistances and believe they are OK, but maybe the secondary is a little high (8K ohms). However, if the problem was no spark, why are the plugs dry? I have always had trouble starting this car since I bought it 3 years ago, but eventually I have been able to get it to go except for this year. The mechanical fuel pump is not connected - the previous owner installed an always-on electric fuel pump and I can hear it running (plus the carb leaks gas out of the air cleaner after cranking several times and the bowl is not dry.) Any ideas? Thanks. John Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daves1940Buick56S Posted May 15, 2017 Share Posted May 15, 2017 Try some starting fluid (ether). If there's any spark at all it should at least fire a bit. Cheers, Dave Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nzcarnerd Posted May 15, 2017 Share Posted May 15, 2017 Have you checked the compression pressures? Maybe it doesn't have enough vacuum to draw fuel through into the cylinders. Have you tried tow starting it? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DonMicheletti Posted May 15, 2017 Share Posted May 15, 2017 When you crank it, do you start the cranking with full choke? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
raydurr Posted May 15, 2017 Share Posted May 15, 2017 I would start by verifying spark to the distributor. Remove coil wire from distributor cap , turn on ignition switch and have someone spin the engine. There should be a strong spark with the ability to jump at least 1/2 inch. If there is not adequate spark then its probably ignition. When attempting to start a cold engine do not hold choke closed continually for too long . I like to choke it hard a few seconds then open quickly to give it a breath of air. Starting techniques can vary between cars and conditions. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark Shaw Posted May 15, 2017 Share Posted May 15, 2017 (edited) "I remove a few spark plugs and find they are completely dry. Shouldn't they be wet at that point?" Yes; choke it until it kicks. Are you using ethanol gas? If so, how long has it been sitting in the tank? Edited May 15, 2017 by Mark Shaw (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
27donb Posted May 15, 2017 Share Posted May 15, 2017 4 hours ago, raydurr said: Starting techniques can vary between cars and conditions. So true! I enjoy the reliability of the electric fuel pump on my 27, however I found if the engine doesn't start right away, that pump just keeps pumping, and I end up with an air cleaner full of dripping gas as you did. So I added an under dash toggle switch for the pump. I prime the carb, and then shut it off and start it on the fuel in the bowl Once running, I turn the pump back on. Much better results this way. On my 27's, after priming the carb, I pump the throttle twice, press the starter to spin the engine, and after a couple of revolutions pull out the choke. As soon as it pops, I push in the choke and of course release the starter. To keep it running I find the happy place of the choke knob, depending on which car it is. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DonMicheletti Posted May 15, 2017 Share Posted May 15, 2017 I dont think the '27 has a accelerator pump, so pumping the throttle before starting does nothing. Along with hard choke, holding the throttle open full might help. That proceedure always worked well for me on '31 and '32 Buicks - the '18 also 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
27donb Posted May 15, 2017 Share Posted May 15, 2017 2 minutes ago, DonMicheletti said: I dont think the '27 has a accelerator pump, so pumping the throttle before starting does nothing. I have updraft Carter BB1's on both 27's. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DonMicheletti Posted May 15, 2017 Share Posted May 15, 2017 27donb OK, but those arent stock. I had assumed that jps's carb is stock. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
27donb Posted May 15, 2017 Share Posted May 15, 2017 2 minutes ago, DonMicheletti said: 27donb OK, but those arent stock. I had assumed that jps's carb is stock. Correct. The Carters are excellent replacement carbs, far less finicky than the original Marvel. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jps Posted May 16, 2017 Author Share Posted May 16, 2017 Thanks everyone for all of the ideas. I do have the original Marvel carb, and I do always start with full choke. I was wondering about trying full throttle to start though - haven't tried that yet, so I will. I did a compression check and the cylinders look OK - about the same or a little better than when I checked them 2+ years ago. All 6 read btwn 50-60 psi. However, I do not get a spark from the ignition coil. This might be a recent development, because I did just replace points, condenser, etc. Luckily I have a spare distributor so I could examine how it works out of the car. In the car I do have 6V to the one side of the ignition coil primary, but the other side should get grounded periodically as the points close, and that is not happening, so either I need to re-adjust the points/spring contact or the screw terminals are corroded. I ran out of time last night so hopefully I can fix it this evening. I appreciate all the comments - hopefully I will have good news soon ... John Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DonMicheletti Posted May 16, 2017 Share Posted May 16, 2017 On cranking with wide open throttle, just back off as soon as the engine fires. However, no spark makes starting a bit more difficult!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
raydurr Posted May 16, 2017 Share Posted May 16, 2017 Car probably has points issues at the least. I would check for proper adjustment first. I would then move to sanding or replacing the contacts. The contacts are the issue most of the time. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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