autonut Posted July 31, 2016 Share Posted July 31, 2016 My engine is bad. I have a chance to pick up an engine, #54655105 which would make it a 1949 engine I believe. Don't know if this engine is from a 40, 50 or 70 however. How to know, from the engine #? Would this engine directly interchange with my engine? I am hoping someone can tell me. Does this engine still have mechanical lifters? Mine does. When did Buick change to hydraulic lifters? I understand that the Roadmaster engine would not fit but how can I tell from this engine number since the owner does not know what it came out of. Lee Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sean1997 Posted August 1, 2016 Share Posted August 1, 2016 54655105 5465510 = sequential number, range for 1949 was 5220972 to 5567999 5 = Series 50/Super (series digit at end of engine number for 1942-1956) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
autonut Posted August 1, 2016 Author Share Posted August 1, 2016 Yes the serial # is 54655105 which would indicate a Super right? But why does it have an original Dynaflow attached. All the Buick literature states that they only supplied the Roadmaster with Dynaflow and only upon request. Did they sometimes deviate from their usual practice? This would have been a rare combination apparently. Lee Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sean1997 Posted August 2, 2016 Share Posted August 2, 2016 In 1949 the Dynaflow was standard on the Roadmaster and optional on the Super. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bill Stoneberg Posted August 6, 2016 Share Posted August 6, 2016 I believe the mounts will be different on your 47 vs the 49 engine. You say your engine is bad, why not just have it rebuilt ? Hard parts are easily available and while you machine shop may balk, there is nothing hard about reboring and doing the machine work. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
autonut Posted August 6, 2016 Author Share Posted August 6, 2016 Well if you think the mounts would be different it has also been stated by one that since it has a dynaflow that it wouldn't interchange with mine which has a standard trans. Thus the idea is dead it looks like. Just that the engine was local and I could purchase it cheaply. Yes it is a little premature for me to make assumptions regarding the existing engine. But with a badly rapping rod when starting it up after auto purchase, a flat crankshaft journal is obvious. As loud as it is and how far it was driven and how flat the journal might be, is only a guess right now. Maybe the crankshaft can be saved. Too early to tell at this point. But in addition, one cylinder does not have any compression. This could be valves perhaps. Thanks for your message. Lee Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted August 6, 2016 Share Posted August 6, 2016 (edited) On 7/31/2016 at 1:29 PM, autonut said: My engine is bad. I have a chance to pick up an engine, #54655105 which would make it a 1949 engine I believe. Don't know if this engine is from a 40, 50 or 70 however. How to know, from the engine #? Would this engine directly interchange with my engine? I am hoping someone can tell me. Does this engine still have mechanical lifters? Mine does. When did Buick change to hydraulic lifters? I understand that the Roadmaster engine would not fit but how can I tell from this engine number since the owner does not know what it came out of. Lee Suggest the book: "Buick technical tips"! Has all those questions answered and more and you will have good reading when you are old like me and wake up in the middle of the night from time to time! Advertised regularly in the Buick Bugle, done expertly by West MI chapter, approx. 20.00 and worth much more for reference of issues just like yours! Good luck! Trying to load a picture, loading.... wow! This takes patience, ick! You can see when a reference is good, it looks like this! Edited August 6, 2016 by Guest Dim bulb! (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ben Bruce aka First Born Posted August 6, 2016 Share Posted August 6, 2016 Your crank may be just fine. I did many "back in the day". Yuk. If the car was not driven forever with a bad rod, the crank often took minimal work. Even just took shims from the rods on some and down the road. If you decide to rebuild your engine, the rods can be machined to accept inserts. Probably cheaper than re-rabbiting. Will you do the work yourself? Ben Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
autonut Posted August 6, 2016 Author Share Posted August 6, 2016 I plan to do most of the work on the engine myself except for things I cannot do, such as reboring, crankshaft & valve regrind. Have had bad experience with engine rebuilders. Paid close to $3000.00 to work on my '57 Buick engine and when we got it installed and started, the water after a short while spouted out of the radiator indicating a compression leak. The rebuilder would not do anything unless I took the engine back out again and put it on his workbench. Had to shotgun it and remove both heads. Heads were not properly torqued etc. One was leaking. Will definitely have to purchase Buick Technical Tips as it would no doubt be very useful. Thanks for all your help guys. Lee Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ttotired Posted August 6, 2016 Share Posted August 6, 2016 Can I suggest you buy that engine (and trans) if its cheap and not going to cause you financial strain, reason, at worse, it may have a part in/on it that you will need for yours, or otherwise, you could make it available for purchase off you and make someone elses day instead of it hiding under someones bench gathering dust. I wonder about your diagnosis of the engine noise, without actually being there to hear it, from what you said " But with a badly rapping rod when starting it up" and " one cylinder does not have any compression", I would be leaning more towards a broken piston. My 364 was locked when I got it, managed to get it running, but was the same, this is what I found 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
autonut Posted August 7, 2016 Author Share Posted August 7, 2016 Thanks again. Yes even though different there may be enough stuff to be worth it. But not sure of interchangeability such as valves etc. On my '47 the rap is on a different cylinder than the dead cylinder as when disconnecting the spark to that cyl the noise will reduce. The dead cyl is in another hole. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
autonut Posted August 9, 2016 Author Share Posted August 9, 2016 Purchased the book "Buick Tech Tips" by Jim Crame. Haven't rec'd it yet. Hope it is good reading. Lee Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
critterpainter Posted August 12, 2016 Share Posted August 12, 2016 Autonut: The difference between a dynaflow engine and a std transmission engine is the crankshaft. The dynaflow crank is not set up to hold a trans pilot bearing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now