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autonut

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Everything posted by autonut

  1. Talked to Kyle. He did not take care of the wood patterns when he moved and they are now LOST!! So unfortunate, for me at least!!!!
  2. Got your drawings but they are much different being a Standard from mine which is a Master. Still wondering what to do???
  3. This Dodge needs a complete restoration but is all complete. I never restored it but drove it around quite a bit. Had a very strong engine that did not use any oil. It has been sitting for several years now, but feel I could still start it up and drive it. But old tires etc. I am too old to restore it now, so must sell. What can I ask for it? I know I should have taken pictures along with this post. But hot out there now. Will take a couple of pictures however and post. Has all the amenities of radio which worked, heater, etc. Drive at current speeds. I used to drive it to work at times and felt quite safe & comfortable with hydraulic brakes etc. If someone is interested to hear it run, I could get it to that point. Lee Noga
  4. Does anyone know of anyone who has the pattern for the '26 Buick Master wood rails between the body and frame? Was given the name of someone who had a pair, but then he moved and lost them. Thus still trying to find a source. Can anyone help me? Can anyone make me a new rail? Lee
  5. Thanks for the vacuum gauge tip Ben. Does that work pretty well? Might be an even better way to time the engine. Lee
  6. Yes I removed the metal cover. Could see no markings on the flywheel period. I'll have to pull the lower flywheel cover I guess. Really hated to have to do that. If the markings are permanently embossed on the flywheen then I don't understand why it was not seen. Have to dig deeper. There is always an answer but sometimes the answer is extremely illusive. The flywheel is quite a ways back from the opening. In the Buick manual it shows the markings very close to the opening which makes me wonder if something is missing.
  7. Yes I have the manual and that's where I checked! Thus the reason for this post. Lee
  8. I purchased a '49 Roadmaster about eight months ago. The other day I decided to check point gap and timing. Point gap was okay and then to check timing. We could not see any timing mark!! We put the timing light on all cylinders and was never able to see the timing mark we are suppose to see. Did the mark come off or did someone put the engine together without the mark?? All a mystery at this point!! Can anyone enlighten me on how the timing mark was attached to the flywheel? Most cars I have worked on, the timing mark is on the front crankshaft balancer and is easier to see and get at with a timing light. I have never been into a Buick eight engine so don't know how they are constructed. Hopefully someone can help me out of this dilemma. Engine runs okay so timing can't be that far off but no way to really check it. Any & all suggestions will be greatly appreciated. Thanks/Lee
  9. I suspect it has to be a bumper jack since to raise the auto high enough to get the read tires off. Car has skirts so these have to come off first obviously. Just obtained the auto a few months ago, and it has a jack which goes under the frame. I'm sure it is not original. Lee Noga
  10. Since I am sure I will not get used to this as I don't drive the '49 very often and since no one else has done this, I guess I will be the first one. Keeping the car original but safety is another issue. One must balance the two. Will let you know of my progress. Thanks/Lee
  11. Turn signals on most autos are on the left side of the steering wheel. This is the only car I own that has them on the right side and is rather confusing for me. I don't want to get into an accident because I gave someone the wrong signal. My question is: has anyone reversed the position of the turn signal arm? If they have, perhaps they can save me a lot of time & effort. If I mount it on the left side, the left turn would be down as with most autos. Thus no wiring would have to be changed. I hope someone can answer me on this one. One might have to drill some new holes etc perhaps. Hoping to hear from someone on this before I try pulling the steering wheel off. Lee
  12. Assuming that the Super & Roadmaster are the same lock, there is something really crazy with mine then. I can only remove my key when the teeth are up I've had my 49 Super four-door sedan (model 51) since 1978. Insert the key into the lock teeth down. Turn the key counterclockwise to unlock the handle. Turn the handle counterclockwise to unlatch the lid. Reverse the process to latch the lid and lock the handle. You should be able to remove the key in the locked and unlocked positions. I've had my 49 Super four-door sedan (model 51) since 1978. Insert the key into the lock teeth down. Turn the key counterclockwise to unlock the handle. Turn the handle counterclockwise to unlatch the lid. Reverse the process to latch the lid and lock the handle. You should be able to remove the key in the locked and unlocked positions.
  13. I posted to the wrong pre-war forum, sorry. Am posting again in the proper year era. I no longer have an up to date Roster. Of all the phone calls I made from an old roster, none had the same phone #. Anyway I would like to talk with someone who owns a '49 Buick Roadmaster or I think the '42 thru '49 all used the same handle. But I am totally confused about this handle. Some locksmith had been into the lock before so wonder if it is put together right. I would like to talk with someone that can explain how the lock works. In my lock, the key has to be removed the same way it was put in. I would think that should be the locked position. But it is the open position where the lock can be turned to open the trunk. Thus how do you lock the trunk?? You obviously don't want to leave the key in it. I feel stupid for asking the question but please try and straighten this old codger out if you can. I just recently purchased this auto. My phone # is (509)967-2723. I would think the way this lock should work is that in the locked position you could not move the handle. Something is 180 deg out of phase but don't know what. Lee Noga
  14. I no longer have an up to date Roster. Of all the phone calls I made from an old roster, none had the same phone #. Anyway I would like to talk with someone who owns a '49 Buick Roadmaster or I think the '42 thru '49 all used the same handle. But I am totally confused about this handle. Some locksmith had been into the lock before so wonder if it is put together right. I would like to talk with someone that can explain how the lock works. In my lock, the key has to be removed the same way it was put in. I would think that should be the locked position. But it is the open position where the lock can be turned to open the trunk. Thus how do you lock the trunk?? You obviously don't want to leave the key in it. I feel stupid for asking the question but please try and straighten this old codger out if you can. I just recently purchased this auto. My phone # is (509)967-2723. I would think the way this lock should work is that in the locked position you could not move the handle. Something is 180 deg out of phase but don't know what. Lee Noga
  15. I have a '26 Buick Master Roadster that is all complete. But I need the passenger side chassis to body wood rail. Has anyone reproduced these? Can anyone give me a couple of leads of who might be able to help me out? Hoping to hear from someone. I will not be able to complete it because of my age but want to get it put back together at least. The chassis wheels and engine has been done. Lee Noga
  16. How did the new one work. I didn't think they were available. Are they the correct resistance etc.? How much are they? Lee
  17. Boy this sending unit has really given me fits. A few months ago I had it out and is had more than one place it wasn't making connection. Soldered them and it seemed to work fine while out. I installed it and much to my dismay the gauge only went up to about a 1/8 tank. I measured the resistance and I think it had about 5-6 ohms. I filled the tank so I knew this wasn't right. So I again dropped the tank which is no fun. took the sending unit out as it was definitely the sending unit that was at fault. Got it out and took it apart again and everything seems to be in order. I get about 5.5 ohm empty, 22 ohms half & 38 ohms full. What is it suppose to be? Wire seems to be pretty worn. I think I have found the problem. With the slider removed and I measure from the output screw I measure an open which it should be. But when I press a little bit on the wound wire, I get about the 5 or 6 ohms when the sending unit was in the car. I think there is suppose to be some insulation between the wound wire and the casing and there is none. Thus when it was all assembled the arm contact pressing on the wire apparently was shorting the wire to the casing. Now how to fix it????
  18. The steering in this auto is really tough unless you are moving of course. A woman could never drive it or park it hardly! Thus was wondering in which year that Buick installed Power Steering? And wondering how it was accomplished? Would it be too difficult or impossible to take the power steering assembly from one of these newer Buicks and convert this Buick over? I have talked to a local auto restoration shop here and they told me that I would have to change out the entire front end etc. Not sure I was getting the correct info. Would be interested in any & all comments on this issue. Lee Noga
  19. Thanks fellows for all your posts as you are very helpful with the pictures etc. Have not completed this project as yet, but at least I know now how to proceed. Thanks much! Lee
  20. Kestral thank you for the photo. If you say that your riser is CLOSED in the picture and ifyou compare that with the picture that I posted, they look almost the same do they not? Thus my riser is stuck in the closed position and that is something I DO NOT WANT. Thus I guess I will have to do more work on it and drop the exhaust pipe. Maybe I can burn the valve out with a cutting torch. I am not sure I can ever get the valve freed again but I suppose worth a try. Do you agree that it appears that my riser is stuck in the closed position??? Lee
  21. Thank you "My047" for the pictures. Kind of clears up the situation. But of course mine is VERY FROZEN! Attaching picture of mine on the back side. Can you tell me whether the valve is open or closed from the position it is presently in?? If open, I think I will just leave it alone.
  22. Wondering if any of you have had any issues with the heat riser on the exhaust manifold? Can any of you send me a picture by any chance? On left is the heat sensor coil but there isn't a place for the spring tab to fasten against. Also on the right side is a spring on the lower part of the lever but it is just a short spring with again nothing to hook to. Plus that fact that it is completely froze up and these are very difficult to free up again. I have had some experience with another vehicle and this one the manifold was off the car and still had great difficulty in freeing up again. I am wondering if any of you have any advice? Hate to remove the manifold if at all possible naturally. Can anyone send me a picture of their heat riser and where both ends are suppose to connect to? That would help but to free the valve is going to be a problem I'm sure. Did spray it with anti-rust spray but doubt if that is going to help much. Tough problem!!! Open to any and all help. Autonut Lee p.s. Also I have one missing zerk fitting on one of the control arms. They usually screw in on most cars but looked at these and they do not appear to be that type. There is no hex on the fitting in order to put a wrench on it and screw it out. Are they pressed in or what??? Why should one be missing if they are pressed in etc. I wouldn’t think they would come out easily. Autonut Lee
  23. Well got on just a couple of sites. One was "Car Covers" which has what they call a Satin Stretch for $180.00 with a ten year warranty. Another stretch type from "Empire Covers", selling for $160.00 with a four year warranty. Then I went to CoverCraft as per your suggestion and they wanted $660.00 with a 4 to 5 week delivery. Others were 2 day FREE shipping. Quite a contrast in price and delivery time. Even though CoverCraft may have the patterns to match your auto, they only custom make the cover after receiving your order. Yes they are custom made for your auto. But not sure if that is good or bad? For instance the auto does not now have any side mirrors, but which I would like to add. Thus if you order without mirror pockets I wonder how the cover would fit since it is perhaps a fairly close fit. And then it would depend where on the door, you would mount them also. All very confusing and maybe I should just order one of the stretchy ones and be done with it. Hate to get something however, and then not happy with it.
  24. I have a 1949 Buick Dynaflow 4dr sedan and want to purchase a really good car cover, to keep off the dust, etc. It will be stored indoors thus do not need a waterproof one. Would like one to be quite soft on the inside however to protect the paint and be very good for keeping off the dust. We have a lot of that. Do any of you have some good recommendations of cover mfgs, that really have a good quality cover. I would like to get a fairly good fit. Does not have to be a custom fit as a semi-custom fit would perhaps be acceptable. Some companies make kind of a stretchy fabric but not sure if that is a good idea. Glad to hear from anyone on the subject. There is quite a difference between covers & that I why I am posting, to get user first hand knowledge from car collectors.
  25. Boy I hate that when I take something apart and then can't figure out how it goes back together!!! The light switch removal is NO EASY TASK! Anyway had to remove it to fix the dash light dimmer rheostat. Well got it fixed & back in with all the wires back correctly I believe. Except for one wire and that was for the Map Light. Got the wire hooked up at the headlight switch and removed it from the switch as I thought that would be easier. But then I looked at the maplight!! I removed it thus how to put back in place?? A MYSTERY NOW!! Don't know how I removed it without being able to remove handle from the switch, because it looks like the mounting has to go in back of the panel. The screw threads are on the switch mounting and I'm sure the screws went in from the front. Does not make sense now! Almost seems like the large pull handle has to be somehow removed from the switch but now does not seem possible! I don't want to break anything. Is the handle removable from the map switch and if so, HOW????? Things seem so simple when you take things apart and you don't think you will have any problem to put back together. But is happening too often lately. Am I getting Senile?? Lee
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