autonut

We just pulled the Franklin out of the storage it was in after 30 years Dick. I wish I had time to restore it as it is the year I was born. Not too many of these around even unrestored. It has some other headlights on it but I have originals in good condition. The only part missing is the right fender light but the stem for it is still there. I had the wheels all powder coated but the tires are not new. The auto is mostly all there but not running. Not sure of what it is worth but certainly will take offers. Lee

I have a 1930 Coupe that is almost all there about 95% I would say. I am too old now to restore it. I am wondering what I could expect to ask for it. The engine it complete but not running. Lee Noga (509)967-2723

No responses. Looks like this is going to be a real dilemma for me. If not the Franklin Club then where??? If not the spring, then perhaps the whole latch assy??? Lee

Does anyone have one of these springs laying around? I sure could use one. If you have one or know where I might find one, please let me know. I ordered one from Eckler which was about the right shape, however much too small. Thanks/Lee

Are repair instructions available in Franklin publications or other publications, that you know of, to give instructions on how to replace the timing chain on a 1930 Franklin 145?? Lee

I will re-state my original statement. The ignition switch electrical contacts, whether hidden or not, should have been included in the wiring diagram. Hard to believe that they left these contacts our of the diagram. But they did strange things 90 some years ago. But again, just making a statement that the electrical diagram is not really complete. I have, for my own satisfaction, drawn in the switch on the diagram. Lee

"Just two copper contacts" Okay my friend, they are part of the electrical system are they not?? Then they should be shown in the diagram. Please show me where they are. Maybe I am blind at my age. However I don't think you will be able to do that!! Does not matter whether you can't see them. All the more reason they should be in the diagram!! Lee

I know you are trying to be helpful. But my friend, anything to do with the electrical system if connected to it somehow, MUST BE SHOWN IN THE DIAGRAM!! Otherwise the diagram is simply worthless!! I am sure that any electrical person will agree with me. Lights do not interest me at this point. But getting voltage to the main part of the electrical system to make the auto function does. Any electrical switch, whether sealed or not if it has an electrical function should or MUST appear in the diagram. My final comments. Lee

Have been trying to get a 1930 that has been in my garage for about 20 years started. I have never tried before. Got all the obvious stuff done. But it will not even fire. It appears to have no compression at all on all cylinders. That seems to be a fairly unlikely circumstance. The only thing that could perhaps cause that, is that the timing chain has slipped a cog or two. If that is the case, it appears that would be a major undertaking. Is there any literature in the club which would give you instructions on replacing the timing chain. I am not sure this is feasible w/o pulling the engine etc. Sure could use your help & advise. Yes the valves are going up & down and appear to be closing okay. Lee Noga

I do appreciate your reply. But the fact is, if the switch controls something in the electrical wiring then it should show exactly what it controls. It must control a switch and if so, the switch should show on the diagram. It doesn't!! I do not see how electrical power is connected to the dash panel gauges etc. It appears to be hardwired and that cannot be!!! Just Me/Lee

I have a 1930 Franklin. The VIN # is 45200690L4 I am curious about the last digit which is 4. That does not seem to correspond to the body codes. Mine is a coupe so that is why I am questioning. A coupe is a code 14 I believe so the L should perhaps be a 1?? Something does not make very good sense here on my Franklin code.

Thank you PFitz. Okay then someone modified this Franklin. You raise another question however. Yes there is a key switch mounted as part of the ignition coil. I am wondering how that combo works. And not sure it does at this point. I wanted to perhaps remove it and get a key made for it however could not see how to remove. Looks almost impossible!!! When I again look at the wiring diagram in the "Instruction book" on page 1704 I do not see the Ignition Switch on the diagram. If the switch is not part of the electrical system, just what is it there for or what does it do?? Do I need it to start the auto? I would think so but if so, why isn't this a part of the electrical wiring diagram??? VERY CONFUSED!! Lee

In looking at the electrical drawing in the Instruction Book I am left in a quandary regarding the starter circuit. From the neg battery terminal it goes to a device which is shown however not labeled. I am wondering why?? Looks like some kind of mechanical foot starter. However my auto uses a solenoid and a push button switch on the dash. Has someone modified this 1930 Franklin? If so, I would like to know what I have. Using a push-button & solenoid is a more modern method to engage the starter. It all looks so original that I am wondering. If anyone can give me an answer on this one, I would appreciate it. Thanks/Lee

Attempting to get the engine started after sitting 40-50 years or so. This 1930 gal is 92 years old! Is it a pipe dream to perhaps think I could get the engine running again?? I am going to attempt it. But first I have some questions. What was the bore size? Is the cylinder bore directly below the spark plug as I wish to put some oil down each spark plug hole? I am going to try and turn the engine with a hand crank after installing oil and sitting for a day or two. Also I am wondering about lubricating the upper valve mechanism. Is there an article anywhere on the website that instructs perhaps how to oil? I see that under the valve covers some cotton pads to perhaps douse with oil. Also I notice a push button on the very left of the dash. Is this by any chance a push button start button? This is kind of advanced, isn't it for the year? Also one door has the latch spring broken. Does anyone have one by any chance or know where I could find one. Will perhaps have a few more questions before I get this gal running again if at all possible. Thanks all for your replies.

What color was the original engine color? Where can I purchase a close match? Doesn't have to exact but something perhaps close that my local auto parts store might have.

I understand that the '65 Riv had either a 401 or a 425 engine. How can I determine what engine it is? What carb did each engine come with?? Help appreciated. Lee

Well rather sorry that no one has attempted to install hood lifts or struts on the heavy hoods like on Buick & Packards for instance. Not one answer from someone who has done this. Lee

Wondering if anyone has installed gas lifts on the massive heavy hood on the '49 which is a one piece hood. No woman could ever lift the hood and much less get the hood arm which is always on the other side to hold it in place. I am not a woman but a 92 year old male and it is a chore for me just to check the oil or whatever. This is surely a worthy endeavor and hopefully someone has previously address it. Would like to hear from you ~~

Boy I sold my '36 and can't really remember. But I seem to think there was a metalic retaining ring on the inside somehow. If I could see your parts it might jog my memory. I know I have been into them before. Lee

Still need a door lock assembly for my Olds 98 right front. I think a 1949 is the same. Does anyone have an interchange manual that lists the door lock assemblies. I think Cadillac would also fit. Lee Noga

I am 92 now, and it's getting really hard to lift that very heavy Buick hood. With a long straight 8 engine this makes the hood & engine compartment quite large. Some auto mfgs, with this type of configuration, had the hood split to where you only had to lift 1/2 of a hood side which made more sense. I am writing this message kind of in desperation of what to do about this. I hate to break down on the highway and cannot even get the hood open. Has anyone devised a solution? Can gas cylinders of some kind be used? Any kind of hydraulic pistons? A very heavy hood and also the side has to open quite a long ways. Perplexed. Do I have to sell this auto simply because of the hood problem? Just Me/Lee Noga

Might be interested in purchasing a Blue Streak. Any for sale? Lee

I purchased this auto about two years ago. One of the problems I have is the hood. It is one hell of a hood. A Very Full & Heavy piece of metal to lift. If lifting one side the lift holding bar IS ALWAYS on the other side!! Plus on my auto, not sure about others, but when you pull the lift lever inside the auto, it lifts that back part of the hood but does not release the front part of the hood. This is the same on both sides. Thus I really have to struggle each and every time I have to get under the hood to add oil or whatever. Surely there must be some solutions for this dilemma. I am thinking of adding another lift holding bar so I have one on each side. That would at least solve one problem. But why can't I open the hood when I pull the inside release lever? Back in 1949 it would have been impossible for a woman to ever get under or into the engine compartment to change oil or whatever. I find this rather discomforting. Auto mfgs. started to think about the woman for selling cars well before 1949 I thought. And women were certainly not helpless, unless auto mfgs simply did not want them to ever look under the hood of what really took them to where they were going. Some women did not always have a man around to lift the hood!! Brought up a whole different subject of course, but only wish to know how a man mainly me, can open this monster hood first of all and then retain it in the open position. Buick engineers after creating a very nice auto, forgot about some of the essentials, such as getting into the engine compartment which drove the automobile. Your Comments. All are welcome. There is NO WAY a woman could ever add a quart of oil to this automobile!!! What say you?? All replies welcome. Thanks/Lee

I have a '39 Dodge that I need to sell, as I have too many autos. This one is sitting outside but is restorable and all there but has a bad engine. It has a VIN # of D1148125. Is this what is considered a special or a deluxe. I suspect a deluxe, since there is no S in the VIN #. Got any idea of what I should ask for it? Lee Noga

Okay I did finally find the problem. Not a easy thing to track down. Here's the history. No brake lights. First troubleshoot determined that there was no voltage coming out of the master cyl brake switch. So I purchased a new one. Same problem. Very perplexing and head scratching. So I decided to use a remote power supply and see if I could get the stop lights to work from the brake switch. They did light & drew approx 3 amps!! Thus the problem was with where the brake switch was getting its power from. When brake light etc was all hooked up and pedal pressed the voltage at the Load side of the switch would go to zero. It gets it's power from the headlight switch and a mounted fuse. Not sure what the fuse value is suppose to be, as the original fuse was blown(another problem found). Anyway a higher amp fuse was installed. Getting under the dash to work on the headlight switch assy seemed like no fun. But anyway in order to try and localize the problem I disconnected the battery and used an ohmeter from the load side of the master cyl stop switch and measured to the fuse. I got about 0.2ohm. But on the other side of the fuse holder, I got approx 2.25ohm. This still does not seem like very much resistance but when the brake light load only measured approx 0.5ohm, it is significant. Removed fuse and burnished the fuse holder contact. Got it to about 0.1 or.02 ohm which is a factor of 10X less. Would it work now? Certainly did, and I did not have to replace the Headlight switch which would have been a major job. Wow what a relief!!!! In a 6V system it does not take much circuit resistance to cause problems. A 12V system is not as critical this way, since it uses about half the amperage. Lee