Best sound deadener for under carpet?

[RoadShark]

I pulled the back seat and all of the "tar paper" sound deadener from underneath.  Getting ready to pull the front carpet out also and buy new carpeting.

 

So, what's the best modern sound damping to put in?  I see OPGI has some pre-cut stuff, but since they say it fits 63-76 I question how well it fits.

[JZRIV]

I have used Quick Roof and really like it. Numerous others have also. Waaaaay less expensive than Dynamat

http://www.v8buick.com/showthread.php?260540-Cheap-sound-deadener-like-dynamat&highlight=sound+deadener

 

Another Version

http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/screw-dynamat-peel-and-seel-great-sound-dampening-material.711889/

 

 

[RoadShark]

Excellent.  Thanks.  Cheaper and you can get it locally.  Win/win.

[RivNut]

Kind of off topic but pertinent.  Is there any way on the forum to "book mark" posts/threads so you can refer to them at a later date?  I'd like to mark this for future reference.

 

Thanks,

Ed

[petelempert]

I used a Dynamat full car kit on my 63. I know a lot of guys are critical of Dynamat, primarily because of price. If you shop on line carefully, it can be had for significant discounts. I was surprised to find it for sale at local store installers in Dallas and often at significant discount. There are lots of other options out there for sure but it's hard to argue with the Dynamite product. It installs easily and cuts sound and heat dramatically. I looked at other rival brands and most had either a thinner butyl layer or the foil was thinner. There is a reason Dynamat has become the generic name for sound deadener/heat shielding...it works. OK- I'm done being a non paid spokesman for Dynamat. PRL

 

[64Rivvy]

I am currently using Stinger Roadkill to insulate all my floors, doors and any large panels prone to vibration.  It is comprable to Dynamat Extreme but is not quite as good,  but pretty darn close.  I've done cars with Dynamat extreme and the difference in vibration, sound and temp is significant versus no or stock deadeners.  

 

I figured the Stinger is a good compromise on price to insulate and sound deaden the Riviera considering how much of it is needed to do it properly.  If you are willing to cut and fit yourself, you can get a much better product for much less than the pre-cute stuff from OPGI etc.  I can post some pics of what it looks like so far if you're interested.  The problem with the asphalt/tar based products is that many of them eventually fail by losing their adhesive properties and many of them also pop off fumes in the driving area.  I know some people have had good luck with them, but I would stay away from them and the cheaper deadeners that are asphalt based. It's not a job you want to have to do twice or have to deal with the car smelling inside that cabin. 

 

Ed - I'm not sure about bookmarking, but what I do for that is I follow the thread and then just turn the notifications off.  Lets me go back and find it later by listing out threads I'm following.  

Edited May 18, 2016 by 64Rivvy (see edit history)

[RoadShark]

Lots of good first-hand info here.  Thanks.

 

I went to Dynamat's web page.  They recommend Extreme under Dynamat.  That could get pretty pricey, but I suppose asking Dynamat how much Dynamat to use is like asking the barber if you need a haircut.

 

I'm definitely going to put some behind the rear seat, but I'm also considering putting it behind the door panels.  How sticky is the Dynamat Extreme?  Can you take it off if you need to gain access in the future?

 

Any pics would be great!

[RockitRiviera]

I used FatMat...it works well and much lower price than Dynamat.  Found it on Ebay.

[g-g-g0]

An option that I just learned about is a spray on material called Lizzard Skin. Still researching but see a lot of positive feed back.

 

Gary

[petelempert]

I used the Extreme Dynamat. It's VERY sticky. Getting off might be a real challenge especially after time has passed and the product has gone thru many heating/cooling cycles. For that reason, whatever product you decide on, I suggest carefully avoiding laying it on top or too close to anything you might want to remove or work on later like seat bolts, access holes etc. I've heard stories of guys who go nuts with Dynamat, put it all over the car and then find it hard to access things like the gas tank sender unit in the trunk because they can't find it and when they do its sort of cemented over. PRL
 

[RoadShark]

7 hours ago, petelempert said:

I used the Extreme Dynamat. It's VERY sticky. Getting off might be a real challenge especially after time has passed and the product has gone thru many heating/cooling cycles. For that reason, whatever product you decide on, I suggest carefully avoiding laying it on top or too close to anything you might want to remove or work on later like seat bolts, access holes etc. I've heard stories of guys who go nuts with Dynamat, put it all over the car and then find it hard to access things like the gas tank sender unit in the trunk because they can't find it and when they do its sort of cemented over. PRL
 

That's good to know thanks.  I'm not sure I like the idea of not being able to pull it apart.  Maybe on the floor only...

[RivNut]

I guess it's safe to say that you'll want to lay your flat wires to the rear on top of the sound deadener then.  

[slosteve]

In my research on this topic I found a website that was very informative & interesting.   https://www.sounddeadenershowdown.com/

I used some of the materials mentioned on this site; mass loaded vinyl (mlv) & closed cell foam (ccf) and 3M Thinsulate. He illustrates how to make it removable. So far I have done the panel behind the rear seat, under that seat, behind sail panels and front & rear door panels. It's a lot of work and ends up being rather expensive.

 

Steve